Damnit

[Steven Simpson]

Hey guys! Finally got my bike all “done” and on the road. I have been just getting it all dialed in around my neighborhood streets, headlight works, charging, has been running and riding great the past two days. Today I wired in the tail / brake light. Everything worked when turning the power on (key only) but when I rode it, I went about 3 minutes and lost all power.

I admit my wiring is pretty janky and I didn’t ad any fuses to anything. But all there is a headlight and taillight.

Did I fry my ignition unit? Any answers and recommendations are welcome !!!! Help! Thanks guys

 

[Wordman]

Break out the test light and follow the electricity.

 

[650Skull]

Whats the ignition unit????..............

no fuses, just asking for problems, and if it is an electronic type ignition there is a good chance it has been compromised.....

Has something else malfunctioned, like the Regulator or rectifier affecting the ignition.....

Some details please

 

[Gator xs2]

Kill switch in run?

 

[Steven Simpson]

Whats the ignition unit????..............

no fuses, just asking for problems, and if it is an electronic type ignition there is a good chance it has been compromised.....

Has something else malfunctioned, like the Regulator or rectifier affecting the ignition.....

Some details please

The black box that says ignition unit on it. I guess curious about my cool as well. I’m not sure I came straight here. I used the light and the battery doesn’t have any power to it when I switch the key. When I put the light clamp on the battery negative ,and test it, it lights up so battery is alive.

I guess that’s my question. Did I have to much going through one connection without fuses and somehow cause the recitifier or ignition unit and or coil to go bad ?

No power anywhere after touching everything with the light

 

[Steven Simpson]

Kill switch in run?

No kill switch. Just switch on off

 

[Steven Simpson]

These are the only electrics in the harness beside the tail and head light.

 

[Steven Simpson]

 

[Steven Simpson]

 

[Gator xs2]

Welcome to my world brother.

 

[Steven Simpson]

Welcome to my world brother.

***Just key switch on and off ****

 

[Steven Simpson]

The black box that says ignition unit on it. I guess curious about my cool as well. I’m not sure I came straight here. I used the light and the battery doesn’t have any power to it when I switch the key. When I put the light clamp on the battery negative ,and test it, it lights up so battery is alive.

I guess that’s my question. Did I have to much going through one connection without fuses and somehow cause the recitifier or ignition unit and or coil to go bad ?

No power anywhere after touching everything with the light

Coil*

 

[650Skull]

The black box that says ignition unit on it. I guess curious about my cool as well. I’m not sure I came straight here. I used the light and the battery doesn’t have any power to it when I switch the key. When I put the light clamp on the battery negative ,and test it, it lights up so battery is alive.

I guess that’s my question. Did I have to much going through one connection without fuses and somehow cause the recitifier or ignition unit and or coil to go bad ?

No power anywhere after touching everything with the light

do you have a muti meter???..........Need one of these to test the battery for voltage.......test the reg/rect and charging system/rotor slip rings.........

I am going to assume, (mainly because you can't identify exactly what type of ignition your running), you are using the factory TCI........And when your curious about your cool you mean coils..........Again need a Muti meter to test the coils..........

All these tests are in the manual......

Thing is if it was the coils or Ignition unit then they wouldn't cause the light not to work..........could be a loose earth or power wire..........if it is an earth there is a good chance you will burn up the loom when trying to diagnose on a live circuit..............If it is the power wire not an issue testing with a live circuit.........

After testing the coils.....Reg/Rect and battery voltage, i would then check all earth contacts for loose or broken contacts/wires and make sure they are metal to metal..........i would then do a continuity test of the whole loom, (no power, disconect the battery), for broken wires and make sure all bullet and mult connectors have no broken wires, corrosion around the soldered area and pins are clean.

No power..... start at the battery and work from there........

 

[Steven Simpson]

Alright I’ll get to work ! Thanks skull! Stay tuned

 

[650Skull]

In didn't see those pics before when i posted..........yes factory TCI and Coil.........reg/rect doesn't look factory.........

 

[Steven Simpson]

In didn't see those pics before when i posted..........yes factory TCI and Coil.........reg/rect doesn't look factory.........

I believe it is. The bike was an 81 bone stock . But maybe the guy I got the original bike from switched it at some point

 

[Steven Simpson]

In didn't see those pics before when i posted..........yes factory TCI and Coil.........reg/rect doesn't look factory.........

Ok got to work on the multimeter. So I’m not familiar so this might be how it is supposed to be .

When the key is turned on the voltage on every piece and each connection is 00.1-00.3 when I switch the key off. Everything reads around 12.0 . Does this tell me anything ?

 

[Steven Simpson]

Definetely doesn’t kick over and no lights turn on

 

[gggGary]

First up; run a ground from the battery negative to the engine. grounding through engine mount bolts does not work.
you also need to run a ground up to the headlight.
It's easier to test with a 12 volt light bulb.
Do not discount vibration. Perhaps you've noticed the XS650 shakes (a bit). Hanging 40 year old (fragile) electronics from zip ties can cause them to shake like a rat in a terrier's mouth. Quick take; rubber mount a battery box and attach electronics to that, the weight of the battery helps damp out vibration.
Try jumping across that ignition switch might not be making good contact inside.

 

[Steven Simpson]

First up; run a ground from the battery negative to the engine. grounding through engine mount bolts does not work.
you also need to run a ground up to the headlight.
It's easier to test with a 12 volt light bulb.
Do not discount vibration. Perhaps you've noticed the XS650 shakes (a bit). Hanging 40 year old (fragile) electronics from zip ties can cause them to shake like a rat in a terrier's mouth. Quick take; rubber mount a battery box and attach electronics to that, the weight of the battery helps damp out vibration.
Try jumping across that ignition switch might not be making good contact inside.

Thanks Gary!

My battery box is rubber mounted and has rubber inside where the battery sits. I will change the grounds and see if that changes anything. And headlight and tail light both are grounded but not directly the the frame . (grounded at the headlight mount bolts.)

So the low voltage when the key is on is normal? and the 12.0 voltage when its off on everything?

Will be working on it alll night after work haha thanks guys!