Dumb question ... do I need to apply wax to the buffing wheel on my bench grinder?

CoconutPete

CoconutPete

1979 XS650 Special
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I needed a bench grinder. With all the aluminum parts on the XS's, it seemed logical to get the one with a polishing wheel on one side.

Well... my parents got me one for my birthday!

Now it's mounted... I've used the grinding side, but .. not the buffing one.

Is it just a matter of unbolting a part and buffing or is there wax needed? What do you guys do?
 
You use buffing compounds on the wheel. There are different grades or "grits" for achieving higher and higher finishes. Technically, you're supposed to have/use a different wheel for each grit. Personally, I use mostly the coarse black emery compound. It seems to give me a good enough shine. If you're just looking for something to get you started, get some rubbing compound from the auto parts store. That's what I started with before I got the actual buffing compounds.
 
5twins said:
You use buffing compounds on the wheel. There are different grades or "grits" for achieving higher and higher finishes. Technically, you're supposed to have/use a different wheel for each grit. Personally, I use mostly the coarse black emery compound. It seems to give me a good enough shine. If you're just looking for something to get you started, get some rubbing compound from the auto parts store. That's what I started with before I got the actual buffing compounds.
Click to expand...

Do you just fire up the wheel and hold the compound against it for a second while it's spinning?
 
This is a messy thing to do. I C-clamp my grinder to an old picnic table and do it outside, safer to bolt down the grinder. Wear some coveralls and protect your eyes and ears. That grit really irritates my ears. I get a better cut with rubbing compounds, wipe it on the part, buff, wipe some water on the part with my hand when it gets dry. Water and electricity!!!!!! I keep a plastic container on the ground with water, not on the bench. After a few applications of compound the wheel will hold its' own compound for a while and I just wipe some water on the part for a while. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Using the dry "bar compounds" is different, NO WATER, and apply the compound directly to the wheel.

I think the moist buffing compounds work better on a grinder because the speed is slower. The buffing wheel on a grinder does not generate the heat that a faster buffer generates. The dry compounds need a little heat/warmth/friction to be successfully applied to the wheel and to buff/cut on the part.

Scott
 
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When the buffing wheel gets all black and heavily coated with shiny stuff what is the best way to clean it??

Thank you.
 
There is such a thing as a buffing wheel rake Paul.
download (3).jpg


But I just use a stiff wire brush like this.
download (4).jpg
 
That medium duty buffing bar probably won't do much for you unless you sand first up to like 800 grit. With the black bar I use (or rubbing compound), I only need to sand to 400 grit. Sometimes I don't sand at all, just using Roloc discs (fine (blue) and very fine (gray)) to prep the surface for buffing. My usual routine now is paint strip the clear coat off, Roloc disc the surface (fine and very fine discs), sand a little with 400 wet if need be, then on to buffing.
 
When you decide to get fancy and want a finer finish working through several "grits" of compound, grab your spritz bottle of mineral spirits and some paper towel, wipe down the parts between grades of compound. Otherwise the left over coarse grit will continuously spoil your next level of shine. Yep black on hemp then white on cotton is a decent combo for street use. Unfortunately not all compound makers use the same color codes! But black is usually the coarsest grade.
Keep a CL watch, I've bought buffers and a BUNCH of supplies for less than the cost of a buffer.
There is no such thing as "too much" buffer horsepower. ha ha.
 
PS even with just one grade of wax based compound the mineral spirits wipe down is a real time saver. It simply melts away the black/wax goo.
 
CoconutPete said:
"Get some of that ol' dirt off and make it look decent" level for the time being
Click to expand...

That's why I recommended the rubbing compound. Easy to get and easy to use, it'll give you the results you're after. But, you really have to sand or Roloc disc the corrosion and stains off first or you'll just end up with shiny stains, lol.
 
One important thing you should do is wear a mask. Be warned it can be a very dirty job.I personally wear a respirator and a full paint suit, and I also have a dedicated room with a recirculating filter. The fine particles that come off the wheel will clog you lungs. You remember your history about the woman working in the cotton and fabric mills back in the old days. Same thing can happen so take precautions. So what kind of machine did you get. Does it have a long extension on the buffing end.
 
Wow, this is really going to be quite the endeavor isn't it? I'm glad there is a grinding side on this because at least it will be useful.

It does not have a long extension on the buffing end.

I'll have to see what I have for safety gear.
 

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