E-advance & sparx cap no batt ???

figure8,

Could I ask you to measure your capacitor voltage when you kick start it before it actually starts? An analog meter would be better for this test.
 
I would like to help you out but my bike is in pieces at the moment. I could check it shortly though...
 
dave....,

In any event, my standard recommendation for a new PMA is to first get the engine running with the coil and PAMCO connected to a separate stand alone battery. This is done for several reasons.

1. The PMA may not work initially and you will kill yourself trying to kick start it because it wont start unless the PMA is working properly. :doh:
2. The PMA produces a destructive high voltage (20 V+) that fries all of the electrical equipment on the bike, including the ignition system. :eek:
3. The engine has to be running to check the PMA for proper operation. :thumbsup:
 
So If i get the pma working fine (pamco on seperat battery) can I safely reconnect my battery or swap the batt for a cap?
Surly a destructive 20V+ from the pma goes into the regulator and a nice 12V comes out to power the E-advance?
 
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So If i get the pma working fine (pamco on seperat battery) can I safely reconnect my battery or swap the batt for a cap?
Surly a destructive 20V+ from the pma goes into the regulator and a nice 12V comes out to power the E-advance?

One could hope that is the case.
 
dave...,

I think perhaps you are not understanding the message. figure8 has the setup and he says it works just great. I was trying to tell you to not install both the PMA and the PAMCO at the same time but to temporarily wire the coil and PAMCO to a stand alone battery so you can get the engine running before you deal with the PMA because the engine has to be running to test the PMA. It's like chicken and egg :thumbsup: or catch 22 :wtf: or don't butter the bread before it is toast :thumbsup: or don't take a bath with your socks on :eek: . I'm exhausted...I think I'm going to take the weekend off....:banghead:
 
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