Electrical issues... Stupid Relay?

dstroy12

dstroy12

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Hey Guys, My bikes been running great for a while since the carb rebuild! No I was riding, and everything was great... then I started losing power... rough running and wouldnt hold idle.

Got it home and then it started doing some wierd stuff. Id push the start button and I got a click from the electrical area of the bike... also the headlight would dim to about 1/4 brightness. I naturally assumed that the fuses were bad or something.

Checked it. It was ok!

then I noticed where I mounted the Relay (Note Image Front or 1) was broken... and the tab (Image back or 2) was touching the frame... now what I dont get is that could destroy a relay... but sometimes it tries to turn over, and sometimes I just get the click and headlight dim thing...

Is this Relay necessary? meaning do I have to replace it??? I was considering getting the Lowbrow harness thing to save myself the trouble...

http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1103

Thanks!!!
 

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while i'm a long way from an expert....... check your batt. Sound like it is weak.
Then troubleshoot the charging system.
 
What jetero sez, and check connections and grounds. Sounds like a round of opening and cleaning every electrical connection you can find is in your future and if you haven't yet, check your brushes. Fuse holders are a common trouble spot on all old Yamahas. They can LOOK good and then fall apart with the slightest movement. So remove all fuses and make sure the holders still grip them tightly. Don't be surprised if you need to replace the fuse box.
 
gggGary said:
What jetero sez, and check connections and grounds. Sounds like a round of opening and cleaning every electrical connection you can find is in your future and if you haven't yet, check your brushes. Fuse holders are a common trouble spot on all old Yamahas. They can LOOK good and then fall apart with the slightest movement. So remove all fuses and make sure the holders still grip them tightly. Don't be surprised if you need to replace the fuse box.
Click to expand...

Yep! and to Jetero, Replaced the fuse box with inline blade fuses. Checked the Batt 12.87 and connections. seemed great!

IF I grounded out that relay, It could be stuck. cause like I said the headlight dimms. so maybe its closed.

IDK gonna order the wiring harness thing, and hopefully bypass all the problems. LOL
 
If you charge the battery does the problem go away for a while? A stuck relay is possible I guess but it's not common. Have you checked your brushes? What year bike? Nice to have that in your avatar. The headlight should not be on til the motor starts. It will then stay on till you cycle the ignition switch.
 
dstroy12 said:
So turns out, I tried jumping the selinoid and the nothing happened. I guess the motor is shot????
Click to expand...

The starter motor may not be defective.

Load test the battery ( at places that sell batteries). You have to know if the battery has the capacity to turn the starter motor.

If the battery is good, next step is to check the connections for the starter motor. Make sure the ground cable from the battery negative terminal is in good condition and be sure it is connected to bare metal ( no corrosion) on the frame. I would also check both ends of the cable that connects to the starter motor itself.............must be clean and shiney with no corrosion.

Are you using a 14 amp/hr battery?
 
Grounds are good. Gonna check out the load test... but like I said everyonce and a while itll turn, and try to start, most times the sel. just clicks...
 
Hey guys... Theory. If I jumped the battery to the starter motor nd nothing happens wouldnt you say the battery is gone? also in my first explaination, I was stopped at a light and the bike started bogging and dying, when I reved it god it would run fine, which tells me, when the alternator was running to charge the system, it was ok, but when it wasnt the battery couldnt maintain the system...

Ideas?

Anyone know a walmart or autozone battery number?
 
I have had a Wal Mart battery. It is a cheap battery. Made to bare minumum specs. It won't hold up.
Any place that sells batteries will have a list that tells what battery you need.
Your stock battery is a YB14L-A2. Battery places can crossreference this number to match their brand.
Leo
 
jump the battery terminals to a car battery (car not running) see what does and does not work, that will tell you something.
 
Thanks so much guys! GggGary - that's actually what I did. Thought more amps. Battery was toast. Got a new one. Started her up and everything... my concern now is the alternator I think. Or reg rect. I started the bike at 13.0 ran for a sec and tested the batt. Reading at idle is 12.86. Little rev 12.93. So I decided to ride for about 20 mins and see what happens. Got back and tested. 13.0 and restarted killed it and tested again. 12.96. Sound normal?

Also. I have a really hard time starting when cold. Even with enricher on. Ill get a single fire the its enough to stop the starter. I gotta spend about 10 minutes trying to start when its cold. After she warms up she's fine. Ideas?
 
Is this a points bike? Don't see your year mentioned. I would open up and watch your advance weights, do it when the engine is cold. It sounds suspiciously like a sticky advance or weak springs causing a "backfire" . That will stop the e start cold, or launch you skyward while kicking. Could also be a plugged choke circuit or orifice, valve not closing completely or or. But the advance is one thing to check. Otherwise anything ignition or spark related can cause hard cold starts.

Don't know that I have ever seen this mentioned on here but it is rather simple to remove the advance rod and polish the bushing journals. it they are gunked up they can cause the rod to stick. When the engine is stopped the advance weights should "snap" back in. While you have the advance rod out it's a good idea to polish the points cam if needed. Note the position of the line on the advance end of the rod before removal as it can be installed 180 off. To remove the rod, remove the nut and washer on the POINTS end of the rod, the rod will tap out with a suitable drift and light hammer taps.
 
Ok no problem I wanted to get that advance rod thing out there anyways. I would tend to think choke circuit on a TCI bike if you see good spark at kick over. You might try it with a jumper to a car battery maybe voltage is dropping low enough to cause the TCI to not spark, they don't like low volts. Check all wires/connections hot and ground for good connections and no internal corrosion.
 
I should have been more clear. when I meant Cold start, I meant either hot or cold weather wise, but rather the first start of say the day... or after being in work for 8 Hrs. its just hard to get that first start... the only enhancement I have to remedy is a Ultimate coil to replace the stock ones, but Im finding it hard to mount as my tank completely surrounds the stock one and the Ultimate wont fit.

Also, the charging volts dont seem like a problem to you guys?
 
Yeah I got the cold start I would still check cranking spark, choke circuits and float levels. Choke circuit would be my best guess "from here"
 
I think Gary has it narrowed down. The choke circuit needs to work for those cold starts. You should remove the float bowls and confirm that the choke jet is completely clear. My picture shows the location of the choke jet that is easily plugged. Disregard the other things in the the picture because your bowls are different from mine. Use a fine wire to probe and carb cleaner, compressed air can help to. You must be able to see light from both ends of the jet.
 

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