Engine removal - single handed

David M

XS650 Enthusiast
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For you old pro's out there, this may seem like it's way over-kill. But, I'm trying to get the engine out by myself with the following criteria "

1) don't bugger up my back
2) don't break any expensive bits
3) use the same method to replace the engine without scratching a newly powder coated frame
4) more things that I can't think of at the moment.

So, what I did was :

a) screw four big hardware store hooks into the ceiling
b) attach a hardware store turnbuckle and bit of chain to each hook
c) attach a piece of 3/4 inch plywood to the end of each piece of chain ( plywood was used, rather than dimensional lumber because it has no grain. No grain means it won't tear apart under the weight.)
d) tie the engine, front and rear to the plywood with a good strong bit of clothes line cord.

I assumed that since the engine weighs about 120 pounds, each hook, turnbuckle and chain likely wouldn't carry more than 1/4 to 1/2 of the engine's weight.

Once everything was connected, I :

A) tensioned all of the turnbuckles
B) removed all of the engine mounting bolts
C) tilted the top of the engine to the right until it cleared the frame
D) adjusted the turnbuckles and lifted on the plywood strips until the engine slid out the right side of the frame
E) unscrewed the turnbuckles until the engine's weight was supported by the old tire and board seen in the photo's
F) removed the two left side turnbuckles and chain, routed them back out of the frame, and re-attached them to the hooks in the ceiling
G) put tension back in the turnbuckles but to keep the engine balanced but leaving most of the weight on the tire & board on the floor.

This went extremely smoothly and all of my goals were met.

Note that the engine was tied to the plywood about 1/3rd of the way along the plywood to leave room to move the frame away.

I'm sure there are many other ways to do this, but this worked for me and hopefully it will ease someone else's anxiety about engine removal if they'd like to try this method as well.

Once I make an engine stand, I'll hoist the engine back up and drop it only the stand.
 

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These engines do not weigh more than 165 lbs. I removed mine by myself just by grabbing the kick starter lever and top of the head. I am 60 years old and weigh about 210 and 5 feet 11 inches. If you are not used to lifting heavy weights I would get help and maybe rig a lifting devise. I was worried about scratching the powder coating so I used bubble wrap until I put the engine in the frame. Again if you are not used to heavy lifting do get help. Nice method that you developed. Tony C
 
Well, a similar idea:

1. secure two 6 foot lengths of 2 X 4 front and rear of the engine. (I used chain)
2. Rest one end of the 2 X4's on a secretaries chair with wheels.
3. Undo all the engine mounts. (You can rest your end of the 2 X 4's on another chair while you do this)
4. Lift the engine out using the 2 X 4's and push out using the chair to hold the other end.

Just like having another person holding up one side of the engine. You only have to lift 1/2 the weight of the engine. You can use longer lengths of 2 X 4's with more length on your side than the chair side to gain additional leverage.

If, for instance, you use 10 foot lengths of 2 X 4's, and the chair was positioned 4 feet from the engine, that would leave 6 feet on your side, so you would only have to lift 4 / 10 or 40% of the weight. If the engine weighs 150 pounds, then you would be lifting just .4 * 150 = 60 pounds, or 30 pounds per arm.

The 2 X 4's are secured to the engine loosely, so you can lift up on one of the 2 X 4's more than the other to tilt the engine forward or back. :thumbsup:

Ride. Enjoy. Life is simple. :bike:
 
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dang wish i would have done that. i got on mine and lifted up ,side ways and on to a floorjack, the hardest part was lifting it up four feet on to my table, took a week for back to get better
 
There are lots of ways to skin that cat. I used to lay the machine over and work the frame on and off the motor. Now I use ratchet tie downs slung over rafters. With all motor mounts off I stick bolts through the front and rear holes in the motor, loop handlebar straps from a tie down kit over the ends of the bolts, and hook the ratchet tie downs to the loops. When the motor is out it gets lowered onto a flat cart, wheeled to the bench, and walked up a 2x6 to the bench top.
 
Where does you secretary sit while you're doing that? :) That sounds pretty clever, actually.

I tried removing the engine with the bike on its side, but I didn't find it all that great, and you would have to worry about scratching the whole frame on the floor. I get help if there's fresh paint/pc. I guess any way you do it is good if you don't scratch the bike or pull something.

John
 
hooktool,

I work on the bike Saturdays.....secretaries day off! :laugh:

Someone else suggested covering the frame with bicycle inner tubes. :thumbsup:
 
Well, a similar idea:

1. secure two 6 foot lengths of 2 X 4 front and rear of the engine. (I used chain)
2. Rest one end of the 2 X4's on a secretaries chair with wheels.

< snippage >

Ride. Enjoy. Life is simple.

I don't have the spare chairs but one variation on that idea that I considered was screwing a couple of boards to the wall to act in the same capacity. But, not being too sure on how finicky the job would be, the turnbuckles gave me the finest adjustment and from all four corners. This rig also gave me time to contemplate where the interference was and what needed to move where.
 
Well, a similar idea:

1. secure two 6 foot lengths of 2 X 4 front and rear of the engine. (I used chain)
2. Rest one end of the 2 X4's on a secretaries chair with wheels.
3. Undo all the engine mounts. (You can rest your end of the 2 X 4's on another chair while you do this)
4. Lift the engine out using the 2 X 4's and push out using the chair to hold the other end.

Just like having another person holding up one side of the engine. You only have to lift 1/2 the weight of the engine. You can use longer lengths of 2 X 4's with more length on your side than the chair side to gain additional leverage.

If, for instance, you use 10 foot lengths of 2 X 4's, and the chair was positioned 4 feet from the engine, that would leave 6 feet on your side, so you would only have to lift 4 / 10 or 40% of the weight. If the engine weighs 150 pounds, then you would be lifting just .4 * 150 = 60 pounds, or 30 pounds per arm.

The 2 X 4's are secured to the engine loosely, so you can lift up on one of the 2 X 4's more than the other to tilt the engine forward or back. :thumbsup:

Ride. Enjoy. Life is simple. :bike:
Do have any pictures of your lifting 2x4s?
 
I just use a car jack and jack the engine up to the height its slightly above the frame. Then I position my furniture dolly on the right side of the bike. Next I bend with my knees and bear hug the engine and basically guide it down on the furniture dolly.
 

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Thanks as I am trying to get my engine out also. So far so good.thanks for your tip.
Foxx
 
I did similar, car jack under from left side, had cinder block on right side (covered with cardboard)

jacked up slowly until I could cleanly get it out the right side. I had frame covered in cardboard but still managed to scratch the 1” exposed part. It wasn’t a clean operation but with “social distancing” there were not a lot of options
 
I even watched a sx650 on you tube being taken apart. It was awesome and helped ease the nervousness.
Foxx
 
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