Finally getting back to working on my xs

[johnpagn]

As its been said life gets in the way sometimes.

Wile looking over my project I was reminded of the pain in the a$$
it was to get my swing arm off.
So , I thought I'd ask if any of u have a few spare parts around to help a brother out.

I need a swing arm bolt (thats not trashed) and maybe the bushings and tube as well.

If someone has this and dosent need them do to hardtail or whatever message me with a price.

I'm sure not every swingarm is seased in place.

 

[rwingsfan]

I got a swingarm bolt and tube. No bushings, at least none that are not destroyed



BTW your avatar is quite disturbing heh...!!

 

[XSLeo]

Lots of these bikes didn't get the care they should. On the 81 I have the pivot bolt broke at the threads, a common thing. A PM, previous moron, Drilled and tapped the end of the bolt for a 5/16ths bolt. It wouldn't tighten down. The plastic bushings weren't to bad but the bolt had pretty much seized in the tube. I did get it apart with a BFH and some steel rod.
I had an 82 parts bike with a good bolt. The plastic bushing in it turned out to be good. I cleaned every thing up picked the tube with the least wear and put it and the 82 swingarm in the 81.
With just the swingarm in, no wheel shocks unhooked, the pivot bolt torqued to the minumum spec, 47 lbs it felt like the bushings were worn out. Lifting the swing arm up it would just drop. I added more torque to 55 lbs, now the swing arm when lifted it dropped slowly and the sideplay was much less. I torqued it to 60 lbs the swing arm would stay in place. It would move by hand with a few lbs of push and stay were you left it.
I think at the looser torque the tube would pivot around the bolt, not in the bushings. With the torque high enough the tube was pinched by the frame. This made the tube stay in place and the swingarm and bushings pivoted on the tube. And no noticable side play on the swingarm. This is the way it should work.
So after you get a new bolt, adjust the pivot bolt torque to get the swing arm to pivot one the bushings and tube and not the tube on the bolt.
I think a Suzuki, not sure of the year or model but it is the same diameter and length the same as the XS650 bolt but the threads are full sized not reduced like the XS650.
If someone reads this that knows will probaly tell us.

 

[johnpagn]

Leo how were u able to get the tube out without beating it to a pulp ?

 

[XSLeo]

It was pretty rusty. To get the bolt out of the frame and swing arm it took a sort handled 5 lbs sledge. The tube had some rust on it. Soaked it with PB Blaster. It then used a 23 ounce ball peen and tapped the end off the tube. With some mild persuasion it slid a bit. Turned it around and drove it back. Did this a few times and it loosened enough to get it out.
If I wasn't worried about using the parts I would heat the tube at both ends with my cutting torch with a rose bud tip. That can get the parts to swell and break the grip of the rust. This might even burn out the plastic bushings enough to get more room the hit the tube.
Perseverance and patience are the main tools I use.

 

[johnpagn]

I see, well I'm soaking the pivot end of my swingarm in Dw40. The plastic bushings seem good. tube might be good too, but before I took it off the swingarm didnt want to move. Hopefully it just needs the rust rinsed off it.

 

[XSLeo]

If you have a socket with the same outside dimension, put an extension in from the socket side you can use the flat bottom to drive the tube back and forth. You won't drive it far either way at first. If you get it to move a bit both ways it will come out. It just might take awhile.
If you have a hydralic press or know someone who does you might be able to press it instead of hammering. It might not damage the tube as much.
If you do hurt it I have seen them on Ebay. Mike's has the bolts with a full size thread, #27-1067 $26.50. The tube #27-1068 $28.50. The seals for the ends #28-1025 $15.50
If you want the bronze bushes TC Bros has them for $29.99. You might need a set if your tube is rusted into the plastic bushes. Getting it apart may enlarge the bushes too much. The rust will act as a reamer to the plastic.
Once apart and cleaned up you will be able to tell better. The tube should be a firm slip fit. With a bit of grease. If it goes in too easy the clearance is to big. If you have to pound it in thats too tight.
Just did a quick Ebay check. Mike's new part are cheaper than ebay used.
Rwings fan mentioned he has bolt and tube, might want to check it out.

 

[pyroman]

Thank God for BFH. I would be dead in the water without it! That and Marvel Mystery Oil. And, JB WELD!

 

[johnpagn]

Didnt have time to mess with it today. I'll try tomarrow . Hopefully soaking in oil for 2 days will have loosened it up a bit and I get the parts from rwingsfan in the mail soon to put it all back together again.

 

[johnpagn]

Ok Heres the update on this.
With lots of beating with my favorite hammer and some help from an angle grinder ( to cut the mushroom off) I got it out.

Also I wanted to mention that parts from rwingsfan showed up today. He came threw just like he said he would. Thanks man.
I thought I saw a thread just for this kind of thing but couldnt find it.

Got my brass bushings from Mc MC today also so, I can put my swing arm on tomorrow

 

[Yamakazi]

Was this the Suzuki bolt that can substitute for the Yamaha bolt?

http://www.650motorcycles.com/PivotBolt.html

http://www.650motorcycles.com/SwingarmBushings.html

 

[johnpagn]

nope its a stocker

 

[XSLeo]

Yes, thats the bolt I was thinking of. Straight shank no reduced thread.
Adding the gearse zerk is an easy mod, and needed with the solid bolt.
The stock bolt is not gun drilled. Gun drilled is all the way thru. The stock 650 bolt is only drilled just past the holes the grease moves thru.