First ever motorcycle and first restoration

Hi jeflon,
while powdercoat is tougher than automotive paint you can't fix it if it does get scratched.
T'ain't cheap neither.
If you have access to paint spraying gear AND A GOOD BREATHING MASK fizz the thing over with 2-part automotive paint in the colour of your choice.
Some folks like Astro Towtruck Orange.

P1010204.jpg


OK, that's my XS11 rig, the Flying Pumpkin.
My XS650 tank & sidecovers are still in boring basic black.
I'm aesthetically torn:-
Tank & covers silver/silver grey to match the Velorex?
Go orange again and turn the Silver Bullet into Pumpkin 2?
Or go with BRG and call the rig The Galloping Gherkin?

Do you do your own painting?
 
Do you do your own painting?

Yeah, gotta horkin' great homebuilt compressor, an el-cheapo spraygun and a Darth Vader mask.
- - - hiss - - - Luke, the carcinogen inhalation avoided must be - - - hiss - - -
My paintwork looks great from across the street too.
Closer than that and the smooth bits where I sanded the runs off and the orange peel where I didn't sand start to show.
But WTF it's a bike not a coffee table, eh?
 
Cool. It would reduce the cost of the powder coat if I just do the frame, then paint the tank and sides myself.
Auto spray paint?

You can powder coat the frame but a lot of us have had good results with using quality spray paint (PJ1 or Tough Coat comes to mind) It's easier to match the other frame components and it is easier to touch up. Not to mention much, much cheaper.
For the tank and tins you can farm that stuff out or do it yourself. Be prepared for an education and a lot of trial and error if you go that route. Automotive paint is very expensive because you end up having to purchase more than you need.
 
You can do pretty good with a rattle can if you prep well and take your time. This is Wal-Mart rattle can, $1.29. It'll pass a 10' inspection.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0152.jpg
    IMG_0152.jpg
    204.2 KB · Views: 235
  • IMG_0154.jpg
    IMG_0154.jpg
    225.5 KB · Views: 248
  • IMGP0418.jpg
    IMGP0418.jpg
    321.7 KB · Views: 230
Sounds like a good find...wtf i went to start my 81 xs bobber..i had my nephew tighten up clamps around my carbs..the little shit tightened to tight and cracked my intake boots. i should of tightened them myself..wtf
 
Sounds like a good find...wtf i went to start my 81 xs bobber..i had my nephew tighten up clamps around my carbs..the little shit tightened to tight and cracked my intake boots. i should of tightened them myself..wtf


Don't beat him up too bad. Sounds like they were at the end of their life anyway. They really do need to be tightened up to about where you can't tighten them any more......just sucks that you don't have immediate replacements.
 
Yeah ..i think you are right about the end of there life..i ordered another set off ebay...for $ 50.00..i have it up on my lift waiting for the parts..just sucks cant ride it...always something..
 
So, in disassembling the carburetor, I ran into something that will be a PITA :banghead:, unless there are some easy suggestions.

IMG_3490.jpg

Looks like a broken screw head. Any suggestions on getting this off, other than drilling it out and reverse tapping? I could leave it but I'm simply not going to. :wink2:
 
Also, need suggestions on carburetor and/or engine painting options.
I am starting to lean toward soda blasting followed by engine spray paint from the auto parts store. Unless there are better more tried and true options....
 
You can do pretty good with a rattle can if you prep well and take your time. This is Wal-Mart rattle can, $1.29. It'll pass a 10' inspection.

Looks good, and definitely pass my inspection. How is the durability? any clear coat?
as far as prep, if I simply use paint remover to take off old paint, will any sanding be needed since the surface was theoretically already prepped?
 
So, in disassembling the carburetor, I ran into something that will be a PITA :banghead:, unless there are some easy suggestions.

View attachment 57463

Looks like a broken screw head. Any suggestions on getting this off, other than drilling it out and reverse tapping? I could leave it but I'm simply not going to. :wink2:

Yep. You have to drill it out. You might be able to get on it if you get the butterfly off. The threads are staked in the back, so you want ti continue on in. Some later model BS34's might be worthy of your consideration.
 
Looks good, and definitely pass my inspection. How is the durability? any clear coat?
as far as prep, if I simply use paint remover to take off old paint, will any sanding be needed since the surface was theoretically already prepped?

You need to sand to create a "rough"(microscopic) surface for the new paint to adhere to. I'll sand any bare metal up to 600 grit before priming, then wet sand the primer with 600 prior to applying color. So far the WM paint is holding up OK, but I'm real careful not to spill any gas on it. No clear coat.
 
You need to sanclear coatcreate a "rough"(microscopic) surface for the new paint to adhere to. I'll sand any bare metal up to 600 grit before priming, then wet sand the primer with 600 prior to applying color. So far the WM paint is holding up OK, but I'm real careful not to spill any gas on it. No clear coat.

Any particular reason for skipping clear coat? Is that not an option with plain spray paint?
 
Any particular reason for skipping clear coat? Is that not an option with plain spray paint?
I honestly don't know. My motivation to skip the clear was a combination of uncertainty as to whether it would react badly with the color, lack of experience putting it on, and a desire to get the bike on the road ASAP. My Dad taught me how to paint, but we both pre-date the color/clear revolution, so we have no experience with it. Dad is good enough to shoot enamel and not get orange peel, my chops are not so developed so I stick with lacquer, with which any flaw can be fixed with wet sanding and polishing. Plus, when a clear/color job goes south with age and time, it looks bloody awful, at least on cars.
 
I use Spraymax 2000. It's a two part clear-in-a-can that is supposed to be impervious to fuel. I have it on my H1 tank but so far have not tested it with gas just yet. Seems to be holding up well.
I would test it first but I used it over a HOK candy paint with no problems. Your typical clear in a spray can will not stand up to fuel.
D940CA53-8A79-4F41-A004-A7A2CB94BCD2_zpsj86jzpjx.jpg

26D91687-E0C5-4E6C-A847-32819230DFE8_zpsotmxhqdt.jpg
 
Last edited:
BS34 is later?
messed up trying to drill it out and i need to replace the plate and shaft. plate is a 38mm.
will 8130124 Mikuni mk-bn/038 be a valid replacement?
 
Yep. You have to drill it out. You might be able to get on it if you get the butterfly off. The threads are staked in the back, so you want ti continue on in. Some later model BS34's might be worthy of your consideration.

BS34 is later?
messed up trying to drill it out and i need to replace the plate and shaft. plate is a 38mm.
will 8130124 Mikuni mk-bn/038 be a valid replacement?
 
New member and first time to blog on this website. I bought a 72 XS2 last year with the intention of bringing it back to original state. I had a new one in '72. I was 20 and owned the world. I truly loved that bike and drove to Pikes Peak from Houston with a buddy that had a Honda 450. Great time and still have very fond memories of that bike. I bought a complete bike, a barn find on ebay, somewhere in Connecticut. Took it down to bare bones and had the frame and other parts powder coated and have most of it back together. Working on the engine.....weird. Has anyone ever experienced the counterbalance weights on the crankshaft coming out and hitting the connecting rod? The engine was locked up and because I couldn't see anything, I cracked the jugs getting them off. The crank would move about 45 degrees and stop. Could not get the pistons to move down. Looking at a used crank assembly on ebay.
Any thoughts on what might have happened?

Thanks
 
- - - Working on the engine.....weird. Has anyone ever experienced the counterbalance weights on the crankshaft coming out and hitting the connecting rod? - - -

Hi Randy and welcome,
WTF, eh? Can you post a photo to show what happened?
Great to see that nostalgia is working for you.
 
Back
Top