Fresh rebuild - no fun running

Tried to time is using a seperate battery for the gun. It works fine however, the timing mark is jumping all over the place...and that cant be right either. Anyone have any ideas in what ive done wrong?? I am getting a super weak spark, but with thise green coils I should be getting a super bright blue spark...:( im at a loss here
 
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Update: i isolated the pamco from the pma using a battery for the pamco and a separate battery for the pma/regulator/rectifier and it ran like a bat out of hell, beautiful. So im guessing either i have some funky wiring within the pma system or a bad regulator ir a bad pma.
 
There's an awful lot of shite regulatoers out there. IIRC Hugh changed what he was using on the PMA's last year cause of constant problems.
 
Ahh, i didnt realize he changed the regulators he was using. I have one of his older ones then. That very well may be the issue. Thanx Gary! I guess i can test it by seeing what it’s putting out to the battery while its running huh??
 
Take a look at voltage at battery terminals bike off 12.8 idling 12.8 -13 after 2K RPM 13.5ish over 14 is bad less than 13 is bad also.
Compare to voltage elsewhere; switch, connection resistances, funky grounding can fool the voltage regulator also.
 
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Here’s the wiring diagram im planning to use. Let me know if you see anything funky going on here.
 
Obviously ground matters...please let me know if you see problems with my diagrahm and where should everything get grounded if not the chassis?? It appears in the diagrahm you posted that the grounds go to frame...
 
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I think i might actually have it! Heres my design, please advise of any problems you see, i’d be so grateful.
 
Need to run a ground from headlight bucket back to frame/engine, do not count on engine mounts to create a reliable ground, they won't.
 
Headlight is grounded inside bucket and bolted to front triple tree which is very securely attached to the frame, all metal to metal :) Always done it that way with my harleys. As far as battery and regulator they’re grounded directly to frame and pamco is grounded directly to battery. Taillight is grounded to frame via swingarm which is in good contact with frame through the shocks and pivot points, and horn is grounded directly to frame at same spot as battery ground. (I think i covered everything lol)
Im so glad this forum exists and folks are more than willing to help and spur thought. Thanx to all.
 
You asked for advice I gave it. Your bike, but that's not how it's done. NEVER ground through a bearing. Yamaha tried that for a year or two with the XS650 then they got smart and started running ground wires from triples headlight buckets to frame. My guess is they were warranteeing failed bearings left and right along with electrical problems. The current creates a little arc welder as the bearings turn eroding the metal.
 
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Taillight is grounded to frame via swingarm which is in good contact with frame through the shocks and pivot points
You got the same problem here. Shocks are mounted in rubber isolators. No ground point there. Well greased brass bushing at the front are also not the best conductors. Elec. systems are happiest when they have a "hard ground".... not thru a greased pivot point.
 
I suggest removing the accessory switch and adding a true kill switch between the Pamco/coils and the fuse. Also run the head light fuse straight to what you are calling the master kill switch. This would be a more typical wiring scheme.
 
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