Fresh rebuild - no fun running

You have your headlight triple fused, no need for that. The ignition kill switch is usually on the coil/ignition power line after the fuse.
 
Someone want to draw out how i should wire it?? I suck at wiring (can build a motor with my eyes closed) but am terrible at the wiring...help please. It took me all day yesterday and today to draw what i posted and it’s still fucking wrong :( i also dont want ten million freaking wires either, so please as simple as possible. (i fucking hate god damned wiring shit!!)
 
Here you go. The ignition fuse should be 7.5 not 10 that is shown on the drawing. This is pretty much the same as the diagram gggGary posted at 7:07 am today.
IMG_0060.jpg
 
Yep, kick only :) and thanx so much Pete! Even more so for using the drawing i did so i can understand it better. Thank you so much. Also, what if i dont want the taillight on while im trying to kick it over? I’d rather be able to have the ignition on and kick it over first, then turn on electricity to all the rest of the stuff...is that possible?? And dont i want the 20A between regulator and switch, like in the on Gary posted earlier today?? (Sorry im asking all these questions but i really am a villiage idiot when it comes to wiring and all...
 
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You're welcome. It's possible to do what you want to but why do it? The taillight is not much of a drain on your battery and you risk not having your tail and brake lights on if you forget to flip the switch. The headlight is on a switch so that will prevent draining the battery.
 
Ok cool...what about the 20A? In the one Gary posted it has the regulator running to fuse before hitting battery or main switch...which is correct??
 
E9EA3B43-73C8-4270-AD66-6C7BD8D2F056.jpeg
Heres what ive got based on you and Gary’s posts...and of course headlight bucket is grounded to frame as well as taillight (forgot to draw that in)
 
Look back at the one Gary posted. The red power line goes from reg to 20A and then splits to battery and switch...(oh i hope you know im not being a smartass, im genuinely curious and would like to understand)
 
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Gotch, cool. Thank you for the clarification, im just wanting to make certain i do this all correctly so i dont put a serious damper on a new build.
 
peterg said:
Others could explain why the fuse is between the battery and regulator.
Click to expand...
With the exception of the starter motor, everything that feeds off the battery needs a fuse. If it could short out and drain the battery/melt the wiring... it needs a fuse. The regulator is no different. It could short out... so it needs a fuse.
 
ChopperRobb. Looks good except for the main fuse (20 amp). One side should be connected directly to the battery only. The other side branches out to the main switch and the regulator.
 
I build and sell custom harnesses and if you don't want to buy another PAMCO soon you need to go over your wiring. GROUNDS done poor will fry your bike and all grounds should be together and run to the factory 12mm bolt where your oil dip stick is. I have gotten in more bikes that people grounded to frame that fried there ignition then I got fingers and toes. Don't cheat on wiring or it will bite you in the ass and it always happens when you are miles away.
GOOD LUCK with your build
Rich
 
Appreciate that Rich! I'll do exactly that and run all grounds to that factory bolt then. Yeah, i’d prefer this build to be a solid long haul ride too.
 

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