Frky's (Re)build

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

No need to pull your hair out, might find your info in the clutch worm experiment thread(s):

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32945

But, you may need aspirins after reading all that...

 

[FrkyMnky]

Have I mentioned how much I hate sheet metal welding???

 

[Irish_prick]

tank sealer will be ur friend...lol sheet metal is a pain if u don't do it a lot. I like ur foot clutch!

 

[FrkyMnky]

Hey, Frky, looks like you're having fun. Just some info for your clutch project:

Your linkage rod may hit the shroud/shield that fits over the shift shaft, if you're running it.

It takes about 7 ft-lbs torque to rotate the clutch worm, so expect at least 60 lbs tension in that rod.

Worm rotation translates to 0.0035" of pushrod travel per degree of worm rotation.

You'll want at least 0.060" pushrod travel, about 17°-18°.

For a 1.5" worm arm length (worm center to clevis hole center), will need at least 0.45" rod pull.

Exceeding 30° worm rotation may cause the seal cup to contact the engine case.

Since you're pulling the worm to the rear, you won't have the strength of the worm body mounts, which are vertically aligned. You can reduce this 'tipping' moment by moving the worm arm more inline with the worm body.

Enjoy!

So I wasn't happy with the clutch rod; so I redid it. I still need to add a clevis on the lever end and weld in some all thread to adjust with. I have 1.25" of travel before I hit the gear lever shaft. It sounds like from what I am reading that will be plenty, but I would appreciate your opinion. The 1.25" is measured at the mount for the clutch lever on the frame at the end of the rod.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Oh, yeah, 1.25" travel will be plenty. You'll want to include return spring (doesn't have to be at the worm arm), and (2) stops. Since you're using hard linkage, spring and stops can be configured wherever you want...

 

[FrkyMnky]

Its been a little while for an update, and I am almost done with all the fab work. Tank and fender are with Visual Impact getting painted. Ill be stripping and painting everything else myself to same some money.

The stock adjusters are too short for a Ardcore tail, so I lengthened them. I didn't like the adjusters that came with the tail because they were std thread and required spacers to be made. Not to mention, they did nothing to address the inside spacing since the axle plates are only 3/8" thick. The stock adjusters are a slightly larger diameter than the 3/4" washers, so the face of the bolt rides in the slot. Works pretty well and its even on each side so I can measure the bolt to ensure the wheel is straight.

Well I hated how long and obnoxious the adjusters looked, so I spent a few days thinking and went back to the regular front bolt style adjusters. I cut the end off of the stock adjusters and welded a 3/4" washer on each and then grind each down.

I had to redo the license plate bracket as well. The mount for my light had broken off already, and upon closer inspection the actual license bracket was cracking about the mounts. I tried locating some 1/8" plate to build it out of to no avail, so I did the next best thing and welded 2 16ga plates together. I got stupid though and once welded curved it instead of bending it 90* for the mounts. If I could have done it again, I would of simply welded on some 1/8" tabs onto the curved plate bracket. This will be something I rebuild down the road to save some weight and make something that looks better.

Something else I am working on is finding all brass and copper lights to clean up, refurbish and sale. The taillight is all brass with a glass lens. I haven't made up my mind on the headlight yet. I will likely stick with brass, although I have two copper lights with amber lens.

Redid the seat mount, although it looks almost identical to the previous one. I had to include a rear brace as the previous one was just flat 1/4" welded to the backbone and it was bending.

I wanted to make a brake brace a little different, however I didn't have square stock. So I went with flat bar and twisted it. Thought it looked alright, but I was a little worried about the strength so I went back to a standard tube.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Im not running a starter, although I was planning on including one as I had pretty bad kickback to the point I injured my foot pretty badly. I spent a few weeks thinking about how I wanted the electronics set up. The coils were a little more difficult that I expected. With how thick the tunnel is on the dt250 tank, I was expecting to have plenty of room and I did. I didn't however have enough length running dual coils. So I had to angle the coils and that became a PITA because the tunnel thickness became a problem then.

I knew I wanted to stuff the electronics where the starter was to hide them and help with hiding the wiring. I wanted to run dual capacitors, but I could get them to fit without making a obnoxiously large box. I started planning on making the end cap remove pulling out all of the electronics with it. My foot pegs and to some extent the engine prevented that. So I picked up some piano hinges and welded that on the bottom so it could swing open will still bolted to the engine. This box took me the better part of 2 days to make.

I also had to finish the control linkage and figure out the springs and pressure switch. The springs are for a drum brake and the brake switch is just a stock replacement from mikes. I would have liked to make the clutch rod left and right threaded so I could adjust it without disconnecting it, but I didn't think about that until after I bought the all thread and getting M8 left thread inserts are pretty difficult. I wanted to take pictures of this to help others later. Not too many pictures of linkages.

 

[FrkyMnky]

I was hoping to do all the welding on the tank and get it pressure tested before I sent it off to Mike to paint. I sent him some pictures of my welding and well I doubt he enjoyed the pictures I sent him. Welding on 24g a steel is a huge PITA especially when its rusted on the inside. So I sent the tank as is and let Mike handle the welding and paid the extra money for it. Likely saved me a whole lot of time blending everything and welding up holes.

The only thing left for major fab work is the kickstand. I hated where the stock one was as working on a frame with that thing hanging down sucked. Gonna have to move it back behind the backbone with all the controls in the way. Went ahead and bolted most everything back together to get the proper height and get and bolt sizes I need to buy.

I hope you guys enjoy this as much as I enjoy building it. I can't wait until I can get back on it with it actually painted. Its crazy how much cracking there was upon tearing down the bike. Live and learn with your first build.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Finished up the wiring today. It took me much longer than I expected but it looks so much better than the electrical tape wrapped harness I made the first time.

And a little size reference. I was surprised at how much smaller this is.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Well its been some time but it is finally time to start final assembly. Here is a little sneak peak before I finish and get some proper pictures.