Front Brake Help Please!

Buckminster

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I am trying to get a XS650B with 16,000mi up and running that has not been driven (regularly) for about 20 years. I finally got the thing tuned enough to start driving it around the neighborhood and noticed that the front brake was binding. Upon closer inspection, there was some sludge build-up behind the caliper pistons. Once cleaned, I am still having a hard time telling what needs rebuilding vs. replacing. I vaguely remember putting in new caliper seals about 10 years ago. Other than that, I believe everything is original OEM parts. I’m using a Clymer manual and will reference some of the specs below. I have several questions for anyone with some front brake experience under their belt. I’ll try to keep it simple:
1. My rotor thickness in shy just of 0.25” but visually looks ok. My manual says replace if less than 0.26”. Can anyone confirm the minimum depth until replacement?
2. My caliper pistons have some pitting. See photo. As far as how they were wearing on the seals, the 10 year old caliper main seals looked ok but the dust seals looked worn (they may have been older.) My first choice to reuse if possible, my second choice is the stainless set on ebay.
3. I was going to order the caliper seal kit from Mikes unless anyone got a good reason not to.
4. My master cylinder body at the handlebars has stripped mounting threads at one bolt and the overall condition is questionable. See photo. Has anyone had any luck tapping the aluminum for the next bolt size bigger? If I were to replace it, am I better off getting a new cylinder body from Mike’s or finding a used original? There is some minor tarnish on the piston bore wall.
5. I have no idea how to gauge the condition of the piston assembly. See photo. My manual basically says replace anything that looks worn. The rubber cups looks good to me but there is minor surface rusting on the shaft. If it can/should be rebuilt, are there any really good kits out there?
6. My manual also says replace brake lines every four years. They look good and I do not see any checking. Is there a more a cost effective rule of thumb on when to replace?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Watching this thing sit while everyone else is summer cruisin' is driving me crazy!:banghead:
 

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Looks like they are in better shape than mine when I just cleaned mine up and put it back together. Mine works fine.

Maybe helicoil for the stripped threads?
 
Well the bike doesn't owe you much at this point. Perhaps treat it to a new flea bay or mikesXS 14mm master cylinder and a stainless steel brake line. New brake part security and slightly improved brake feel should result. I think those pucks are OK to reuse. I like to run em on a buffing wheel and compound or REALLY fine sandpaper 1000 grit, so the edges of the pits don't "lathe" the rubber seals.

Less than $100 should have you good. From what you said I gotta ask how OLD are the tires? Summer's short and winter's long in MN.
 
Those pistons don't look bad at all. I would reuse them. You have to realize that once pressurized, the pistons move very little. As long as the pitting isn't on the area that moves through the seal, it doesn't bother anything, and most of the time it's not. The area that sits inside the caliper and is bathed in the fluid is usually where the pitting occurs. Over time, you get water in the brake fluid and it corrodes that back area of the piston that it surrounds.

For the MC, being the tool junky I am, I would get the proper sized Flex Hone and give it a light honing to clean it up. I wouldn't replace any seals unless the system leaked after re-assembly.

So, your choices are $80 to $100 for a new MC or about $40 for a Helicoil kit and brake cylinder hone. Be aware that an M6 Helicoil kit will see plenty of use on an old bike.
 
Thanks guys. The info helps a ton. Judging wear is tough without much experience. If I followed my ol' Clymer manual, I'd practically have to replace the whole bike every four years or 2,000mi. I bought new tires 10 years ago and have only put on a couple hundred miles since then so they look pretty good. As a side note, the bike has never run right for me until I took the time to figure out how to time it about a month ago. What's the deal with stainless steel brake lines vs. rubber OEM-style. I assume that on a 650 you would probably replace the upper and lower at the same time, right?
 
Well, most of us ditch the 2 part line in favor of one long one. The stainless line is stronger, gives better feel, and pretty much never wears out. Unless you're doing a 10 point restoration, it would be foolish to put rubber lines on there again.
 
Rubber lines get soft and mushy ON THE INSIDE first. Trust us although I haven't seen a burst brake line I've had and heard of a few clogged ones with chunks of rubber spit out when they are blown out with compressed air.
 
They say you can feel the rubber lines being bad by squeezing them between your thumb and finger and then applying the brake. You're supposed to be able to feel them swell. I've never been able to do that. They feel OK to me but I have replaced several and it "fixed" the mushy lever feel. Obviously the rubber line was bad even though, as I said, I couldn't feel it with that test. If I ever did run across one that I could detect with that test, it would be replaced immediately because it would be really bad.
 
I'm very interested in the idea of a single steel brake line. My rubber lines are definately 10+ years old and in questionable condition. There is an overwhelming amount of general brake information in the tech section of this forum but I didn't see any specific info on how long it should be or how to best run a single steel line on a XS650B. Does any one have a simplified parts list or photos of a line that worked for them? Thanks.
 
On the XS650 B there is a junction on the lower tree. This junction not only joins the upper and lower lines it has the front brake light switch on it.
This is no problem. Replace the two lines with one and replace the banjo bolt at the master cylinder with a banjo bolts with a switch in it.
I have used one for my rear disc brake for several years, no problem.
Scrap that old M/C and get one from a later model standard. One that has the 14 mm bore. It will greatly increase the power of your brake as well as much better feel.
Leo
 
I would think that other than some styling differences and handlebar size differences, any 14mm master cyl. assembly from any bike should work, no? It's just a piston in a bore, when all is said and done.
 
True, any 14 mm for 7/8 inch bars will work. The later Yamaha one will appear more stock than one that says Ducatti on it.
Leo
 
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