I am looking at upgrading to mikes stainless rotor. http://www.mikesxs.net/product/30-3065.html I saw on a thread that several other bikes have similar rotors, which are far less expensive than mikes. Any suggestions would be awesome!
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Front rotor upgrade
- Thread starter Captmilk
- Start date
Maxx650
XS650 Addict
I've been looking for a new replacement to my rear brak rotor as well if anyone knows anything 
Dakota_Lew
XS650 Agronomist
Just a thought, Unless your really racing and all that... is it really necessary? If your going for a similar look, just drilled the stock ones, there is a guide/pattern on these forums (or i could send you it) for drilling them. All you need is a Punch, a drill press and a little cutting fluid and your set. Get the look without all that money.
Then again, those disc do look sexy on a 650!
Then again, those disc do look sexy on a 650!
Maxx650
XS650 Addict
Unfortunately I don't have a drill press.. I found a guy on ebay who drills and machines rotors (mine mostly need machining).. but for the price you might as well buy a new one.. something like $100-120 for machining + drill patterns.
I found the same thing. I can get them drilled for about $90 including shipping or pay the $145 and not only have a new drilled rotor but gain a weight reduction
Another inexpensive option is to swap out the "thick" (8mm, I think) stock XS650 rotor for a 5mm slotted one used on many Yamahas from roughly the same period or a little later - if you search, I'm sure you'll find posts that identify what specific bikes had these; they bolt right up. They are noticeably lighter than the stock 650 rotors, although probably nowhere near as light as some aftermarket ones.
wherearewe
Rub on Ya Titties
The big difference is the weight. The Mikes one is literally less than half the weight. The weight saving if you have the twin rotor model (like i do) is a lot. I went from 2 stock rotors to one mikes and brembo calliper/mc setup. Massive difference.
Like Aldo said above, if you want a cheaper option I believe the XJ750 used a thinner rotor. They are drilled/slotted and you could prob find one on ebay. You would want to machine it if its 2nd hand, and like all things used there are no guarantees.
Like Aldo said above, if you want a cheaper option I believe the XJ750 used a thinner rotor. They are drilled/slotted and you could prob find one on ebay. You would want to machine it if its 2nd hand, and like all things used there are no guarantees.
I have an XS1100 with slotted rotors. The weight difference is negligible. Yes, they are a direct bolt-on to the XS650.
So i ended up buying the light weight EBC rotor, but not from MikeXS but bikebandit.com. Because they price match it and I get free shipping on that site. Now I realized that on Mikesxs.net the rotor came with spacers. Anyone know the size of the spacers? I'm thinking when I mount the rotor and line it up I'll just have to measure the space difference.
Royboy
many roads, little time
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Get a good pic of how the rotor sits in the caliper before you take it apart to put the new rotor on, get some machine bushings at the local hardware. stack a few till the spacing matches the stock setup. IIRC 3/8" ID fit well. You may need to go to longer bolts so they engage all the threads in the caliper mount.
Good idea!
wherearewe
Rub on Ya Titties
The spacers that come with Mikes kit are 22OD x 10.2ID x 6mm
I have been running caliper spacers with a MikesXS rotor, but with a wide 18" flange front wheel it is a major PITA to change wheel, brakes etc.. Moving the rotor away from the hub would help. I had some blanks I got "from a guy" so machined a 7mm rotor spacer. This went surprisingly well, even on my ancient little southbend, pics tell the story. The blanks were crudely sawed off drop sections from some industrial process. At 7mm the rotor still catches the hub centering ring (barely), Machined one side, flipped it and machined the other and OD went to outside jaws on chuck and got the ID then used a hub and rotor to partially drill the holes, finished drilling on a block of wood, a bit of chamfering and buffing, done. I'm using later model button head rotor bolts with blue loctite. They give about 1/2" of thread in the hub, should be good. Hate to use "hardware store"bolts because they do not have a full size shank to fit the rotor holes snugly.
I'm almost there, I think With a bit of file work on the back caliper corner, I can get the caliper off without removing it from the carrier.
These are the 650 central vesrah pads, some rather severe gouge marks in them after that "sporting ride" last Sunday. Mike M suggests they only be used with "hard" stainless rotors.
Part of the reason I changed from caliper spacers to a rotor spacer is a bit "too much" softness at the lever. I am running a 10mm late Yamaha dirt bike MC and a SS line. I do have the stock "anti squeal" shims, behind the pads, if this doesn't change the feel those will be removed next.
I'm almost there, I think With a bit of file work on the back caliper corner, I can get the caliper off without removing it from the carrier.
These are the 650 central vesrah pads, some rather severe gouge marks in them after that "sporting ride" last Sunday. Mike M suggests they only be used with "hard" stainless rotors.
Part of the reason I changed from caliper spacers to a rotor spacer is a bit "too much" softness at the lever. I am running a 10mm late Yamaha dirt bike MC and a SS line. I do have the stock "anti squeal" shims, behind the pads, if this doesn't change the feel those will be removed next.
I just added the anti-squeal shims to mine because, well, they squealed, lol. This cured it. I have Vesrah pads too but the older ones 3M used to tout as "best", not his new "fav", the sintered ones. They were fine for a few thousand miles, then started squealing. First, I tried those little chrome spacers in front and behind the caliper in it's mount. Yamaha introduced an "anti-squeal" version of them with little rubber pads in them. They did nothing.
