Front Wheel Resistance After New Forks Installed

[EvenmoreXS]

So, I just installed my new-er forks yesterday. Went pretty smooth. I also installed some new fork ears for the headlight and some new billet clip-ons, which are sweet!...

Everything came appart smooth and went back smooth...All in all not bad really. I took it slow and photographed everything.....took my time....

After reinstalling the calipers and snugging everything back up I had some resistance on the wheel.....rotor it appears....and it didnt want to rotate very well. Just the left side seemed to be rubbing a bit.

So, I loosened things up and went through the process a few times in different ways.....I did get it better but not what I think its supposed to be. It spins with a bit of resistance and makes a "Swipe" sound at the same place on the rotor each pass. It rotates OK, but I think it should be smoother. Possibly a warped rotor??? Im sure the bearings are not new, but I dont get the impression they are the cause of the resistance. But they will be replaced.. I may try to rotate the wheel tonight with the left caliper off to see how she rolls.

But, once i got it OK to move on for a minute I noticed that my brake lever now pulls all the way to the grip. NO, I didnt see any brake fluid anywhere..... The only two things I can possibly attribute to this is a slightly tight fit....not too tight....between the new fork ear and the brake line....see pic.....OR...the lower clip-on handle bars....maybe...


I will most likely have to do new custom lenght cables for all 3....throttle, clutch and brakes. Will very likely do my wheel bearings at the same time...If not sooner...


Looking for your opinions on the resistance and the full pull brake lever.

Thanks in advance Everyone...

 

[DogBunny]

My very quick opinion is that a swipe noise and slight rubbing can be completely normal, see what happens when you ride the bike.
As for the lever, my quick opinion is that you need to bleed your brakes. Even if I am wrong, that is always the first thing to do whenever your lever pulls all the way in.

 

[5twins]

What did you do with the MC while changing the bars? Did you let it flop down sideways or maybe upside down? If so, the fluid in the reservoir may have moved off the feed and return holes into the piston and as DogBunny said, you may have induced some air into the system. Yes, bleed those brakes.

 

[EvenmoreXS]

My very quick opinion is that a swipe noise and slight rubbing can be completely normal, see what happens when you ride the bike.
As for the lever, my quick opinion is that you need to bleed your brakes. Even if I am wrong, that is always the first thing to do whenever your lever pulls all the way in.

Its pretty minimal right now. I worked it out....but thought Id ask before I finished up.

I have another theory too......see my next post.

 

[EvenmoreXS]

What did you do with the MC while changing the bars? Did you let it flop down sideways or maybe upside down? If so, the fluid in the reservoir may have moved off the feed and return holes into the piston and as DogBunny said, you may have induced some air into the system. Yes, bleed those brakes.

No, I didn't let them flop too much…I had the handle bars strapped on both sides to my lift……...see pic…...that way the forks stayed still while I worked…..

Im sure they flopped a time or two early on but no,,…they didn't flop the whole time….strapped em down pretty early…


But I do have another theory…….I put on new bars….clip-ons…….and my MC angle is significantly different. I bet its a combination of these two things…..a bit of flop and a lot of angle change. I could use a shorter first brake line from my MC to the center of the fork where it splits for each caliper.

See pics……sorry for the sideways ones….i'll fix later.


Thanks

 

[retiredgentleman]

Your master cylinder is on a real bad angle. They work best when they are closer to horizontal.

 

[Boles44]

i have a question, when i push my bike i hear a slight squeek and some resistance. the resistance seems to only be on one spot. i have to ride 100 miles tomorrow so i wanna know how dangerous this can be.

 

[XSLeo]

Evenmore and Boles, do you have a dial indicator? If so, use it to check the runout on the rotor.
The max run out is .006 inches, 1.5 mm.
Even at that when you ride, if you don't feel any pulsation it woulds be ok to ride till you get a new rotor.
I would recommend the 5 mm thick slotted rotors as used on some of the XS1100, I think the SR500 and some other Yamaha's of the same time frame.
I have a set of the 5 mm on my 75, a set of the 7 mm on the 81. Both provide great braking. The 5 mm are lighter and give slightly improved handling, less unsprung weight.
Leo

 

[XSLeo]

Another thought, move the pads away from the rotors. I use a flat blade screwdriver. With the pads away from the rotors does it still have the resistance? If so figure out which side is the culprit.
If both, giggling the master around may have blocked the return hole enough so the calipers can't retract.
Leo