Fuel screw factory setting?

[Benjamoid]

So I was just finishing up rebuilding my carbs with new jets and seals, went to adjust my fuel screws and stripped them both I was told the 3 turns out is a good starting point, does anyone know where they are from the factory? If I can leave it alone that would be ideal, I really dont wanna try getting them out right now, I just wanna ride!!!

 

[Benjamoid]

Oops, its an 81. So BS34 if im reading right...

 

[gggGary]

Correct answer is; it varies. But somewhere between 1 /1/4 and 2 is pretty normal.

 

[Benjamoid]

Hmm, ok. So now do I try to get it out, or just put the carbs in and hope for the best...

 

[gggGary]

Let's see a picture. Once they are buggered it is tough to get em out without causing further damage. But the odds of it running well with out removing them aren't so good either.

Were the plug off caps still in?

 

[5twins]

You won't get the best if you leave them at the factory setting. They were set to meet E.P.A. specs, not for best running.

 

[Benjamoid]

1 plug off cap was still on, the other was off. And by coincidence the side that did not have the cap was the side that had a hole in the piston... The po also did not change jetting when he put on pod filters... So I got a fresh rebuild, I have never ridden the bike, and I was trying to have it done this weekend. Thats why I was wondering if the stock settings are ok. Here is the best pic I could take.

I have read that with a dremel you can usually get them out, just gotta keep cutting new slots untill you finally get them out..

 

[gggGary]

yeah that is still salvagable. Why is it buggered? Not being smart ass but if it was just sloppy screw driver work you have a good chance of getting em out yet. If they are corroded in, it is more of a crap shoot. You might be best to cut the tower down so you can use a cut off wheel in the dremel to get a good slot the first try. I would get or grind a screw driver to be a perfect fit in the slot you make and then give it a light rap or two with a hammer to help break loose the threads. Some rust buster is always a good idea. If it won't loosen try to tighten. You need the carb body supported so you can get your weight on the screwdriver handle to reduce the chance of a second cam out. On a Utah bike (sand, heat) carefully check throttle shaft play, worn throttle shaft seals can make the bike go lean too.

 

[Benjamoid]

Well, its both. I figured they would move easily so I just went at the first one, and stripped it. Secopnd one I actially hit it with the drill bit when I drilled the plug out and flattened out the top of it Im sure they are siezed in there too though. My next plan was to cut off the tower and cut a deeper slot with my cut off wheel, thats what I usually do when I strip out philips screws so I hope it works here...

Also, im planning on using a flat head bit on my 1/4 ratchet so I can get more downward pressure, and the carbs will be in a bench vise...

Thanks for the advise

 

[gggGary]

I haven't done this and there are rubber seals in there but warming it a bit with a propane torch might help too. I prefer a screw driver to the socket and bit, the longer handle helps with alignment. Helps feel that little "tink" that means success too. It's brass so you can't use all that much torque anyways.
Misery loves company; On a really bad one I ended up easy outing bigger and bigger till I cracked a chunk off the carb body. Jet came out then.

 

[Benjamoid]

Got it!! I just cut the tower off right at the top of the fuel screw, cut a deeper slot, really leaned into it and.........Tink!!! it busted loose, just like you said! Other side went the exact same, it doesnt look very pretty but I got them both at 3 turns now. You were spot on with the factory setting, the capped side was right at 2 turns out, the side that was un-capped(the side that melted the piston) was at 4 turns out.

Here is a pic of the end product

 

[xjwmx]

I fixed the one I stripped on my old SR by using a cylindrical burr on a Dremel and cutting a new slot without cutting the tower down.

I'm well despised for this, but I disagree that the plugs should be automatically removed and the screws tweaked, for three reasons. First, mine are capped, and has stock jets, and it runs fine. That was verified to my satisfaction by a member who's been riding these since the 70s and has owned about six saying "There's nothing wrong with these carbs" with a gleam in his eye. His own most recent (Heritage mdl.) had a flat spot off idle that he fixed by going up one pilot. Second, the float has a lot more influence on the mix than the mix screw does. On the one that I have tweaked the screw on, it was hard to say the screw was doing anything at all to the rpm at idle. At best, there was a very wide plateau rather than a peak. Third, I doubt the average person, which includes a lot of first timers don't forget, could set them up better than the factory did. Not for a long time at least.

 

[Benjamoid]

I rejetted because I am running pod filters, and straight headpipes, no mufflers. I have no experience with jetting these bikes, so I just relied on what someone with a lot of experience with these told me. He said start with 145 main, 45 pilot, and 3 turns out, and adjust as needed. Obviously thats not gonna be perfect for everyone, but at least its a starting point.

If the bike was still stock I would not have messed with anything.

 

[xjwmx]

Yes. Different exhaust or different filters/airbox, different thing completely than what I was talking about.

 

[Benjamoid]

Thanks for your input though, im always happy to hear what people with more experience then me have to say!

 

[xjwmx]

You're welcome. I hope you have enough threads left on the tower. I think 3 turns out is about maximum, so probably so.

 

[Benjamoid]

I actually didnt loose any threads, luckly I cut it right at the top of the threads

 

[xjwmx]

Don't call it luck; call it a subconscious smart choice

 

[Benjamoid]

I like it!

 

[gggGary]

I believe 5twins says 4 turns is too far and means you need to go up one on the pilot. But I have not tuned a set for aftermarket. After ??? turns, the jet is up out of the oriface and no more adjustment is possible.