Fuel screw factory setting?

there is a washer under the spring, and the o-ring is under that. did you pull the washer out??
 
The idle screw, the spring, a stainless washer and then the rubber seal. It needs to be there.
I often take a drywall screw and gently twist it in a bit, a couple of tries normally gets the washer and then the the seal out.
 
I'll take another look to see if the seal is stuck at the bottom when I get a chance, rain really gets you when you need to get something done.

Is there an easier way to adjust the screws? because every time I need to I have to take the tank off to get to them. I have a "custom":D angled screw driver but i can't get the down force to turn them and it starts to strip a bit.
should I just cut the towers down a bit and try it that way?
 
Cutting the towers worked for me, but I havent run the bike yet, so I have no idea if it will effect it at all, but im sure it will be fine. I personally wouldn't cut them unless I had to, and I had to...
 
Samuraiace, I used a screwdriver bit without the handle, about 3/4" long from a screwdriver set. It's better than a screwdriver anyway because the sides are straight on those bits, healthier for the screw slots. If you color one side of the screw head with a marker it'll help you keep track of turns.
 
I guess everyone has there own version of "rebuilding" things. By rebuild I meant just clean, and rejet. Just a very basic rebuild, there was not much need for more in my opinion, it ran and didn't leak gas...
 
Just sayin. I know the orings beneeth the washers frequently harden in disintegrate leading to a none adjustable situation as well as a plugged or improper flowing passage. Sorry to offend but I was a dealer service tech for over twenty years and builder for the last ten
 
No offence taken, I was just explaining. I'm actually a Acura technician myself, have been wrenchin for 6 years now. Also, I did pull the washers and the o rings were still intact, I didn't want to try to dig them out for fear of damaging them, so I just checked to see if they were there and called it good.
 
sreimer said:
Gotta ask. How did you rebuild your carbs without removing the fuel air mixture screws and cleaning the passage?
Click to expand...

I just made sure carb cleaner would spray out the little hole controlled by the mixture screw. On mine, I took out the pilot jet, stuck the carb cleaner nozzle as far up in there as I could, and looked at the little holes, including the one with the mixture screw, and made sure carb cleaner came out of each one.

If it wouldn't come out of all the holes, eventually you'd have to take the mix screw business out and try to clean it from that direction. But mine were pretty clean to start with. But there were few marks on anything, which said it hadn't been taken apart and cleaned before, or only very carefully.


The baddest carb cleaner might be the Auto Zone labeled brand. It will burn your hands if you don't get it off and none of the others I've used do that. So that means it's the best ;)
 
Last edited:
TPL1 said:
compare to the plug chops charts here.
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html
Click to expand...

I've pondered that page before and it doesn't make much sense to me, except at the extremes. It's the one thing that gives me pause about ol' Dan. I think the the most useful method is the one where you check for spots on the porcelain for detonation, the base ring for mixture, and the negative electrode for plug temp.
 

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