hi , i recently bought a 1981 maxim 650 i was riding and the gear selector jammed down . i pulled the motor and removed the casing where the gear selector is and found the part that is connected to the gear selector on the inside (some what looks like a bottle opener ) was broken i just wanna know if i should just replace that part i am unsre of the name . or should i crack the case all the was to check over the selector forks or is that being broken the root cause
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
gear selector stuck in downword position
- Thread starter bacsu69
- Start date
-
- Tags
- engine gear selector
ANLAF
XS650 Guru
Bacsu, yes you can change the bottle opener - it is called the shifter-shaft assembly, which would be a great name for a movie. If you can wait a couple of hours you will be able to see my posts and video links with twelve short videos from here in the smallest workshop in the world. The part is available, it is simple to replace (a little time and patience required). You will have to remove both the left and right side cases. This is the sequence I followed:
1. Put bike on centre stand or if you have a custom, make sure the bike is vertical with the rear wheel off the ground (that become important in adjustment.
2. Remove the left hand side engine cover/case (depending on your set-up there will be other things to get out of the way first - I only have my custom gear lever).
3. Remove the guard that protects the gear shifter shaft (you have just taken the gear lever from this item). Two nuts must be loosened/removed and the guard slides free.
4. The gear shifter shaft disappears into the left side of the engine, as is does you will see it is held in place by an E-washer (it looks e-shaped). Take a narrow-headed screw-driver and prise it away from the gear shaft from the centre of the crescent - it will come away gently, but be careful it doesn't fly away.
5. Remove a large washer that sits behind the E-washer.
6. Clean the gear shaft and apply a coat of grease (it will be passing through an oil seal and the engine, so clean and lubricated helps. That's it on the left side for the time being.
7. Drain your engine oil into a container that can hold 2.5 liters and more. Check the oil for any foreign bodies - if there are this might be a clue as to why the shifter-shaft assembly (bottle opener) broke in the first place.
8. Remove kickstarter.
9. Remove the right side engine cover/case - NOTE do not use force. Tap with rubber mallet until released. NOTE keep a thumb on the kickstarter shaft as you pull away the right side cover (or you will be spending time working out how to get that back in there. NOTE be careful and you can preserve a gasket in good condition to be refitted. NOTE you might save yourself the next procedure if the cause is a broken spring on the arm of the shift-shaft assembly (the one that operates the claw).
10. Remove the clutch - that big, terrifying looking disc right in front of you. NOTE don't mess about with muscle and destroying the heads of the six cross-head bolts, use and impact drive and be sure. NOTE keep all the various washers and plates in order and in the same position and orientation as they were on the engine. NOTE the make 27mm nut is a notorious villain - it will not budge without either a special clutch tool or (as I did in seconds) an impact gun.
11. The shifter-shaft assembly (bottle opener) has a claw reaching like a T-shape to hook under a five-pointed star (part of the gear selector mechanism). Pull the claw downards gently (it is spring-operated) and pull out the whole bottle opener from the engine and the screw-headed adjuster bolt at its foot.
12. As you draw out the shifter-shaft you will feel it bite as the raised ridge on the part that was exposed on the left hand side reaches the oil seal - don't panic. Be patient and turn it gently like a screw or bolt until it is past the seal. It is now free.
13. Check the adjustor mechanism (this is important - see my posts and videos when they download). Make sure the adjuster operates properly.
14 Refit the replacement shifter-shaft with lubrication (replacements are available - mine is from a donor engine) with the claw under the feet of the star.
15. At this point I would refit the gear lever on the left hand side to help find gears and check the mechanism.
16. Find fifth gear (the arm of the star with the 0 symbol should be at ten-past the hour if the star was a clock - this is fifth gear).
17. Using the adjuster mechanism, adjust so the peaks of the claw are equidistant from the feet of the star. NOTE this is where it helps having the bike vertical and with the rear wheel off the ground - if the star sticks between gears, turn the wheel to simulate the engine running or turn the clutch shaft anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise) and it should click in).
18. It is always wise to look for the cause of the problem. Go through a check procedure (bits in the oil, bits in the bottom of the crank case, broken springs, mal-adjusted shifter-shaft assembly NOTE release the neutral indent and make sure the spring is is good condition.
19. Put everything back together NOTE the problem may have come from a clutch problem. NOTE If your plates are worn replace NOTE if you are doing that, replace the six spring in the clutch NOTE if your six sleeved clutch bolts are in anything put first class condition consider replacing with hex bolts and sleeves (check the posts on this). NOTE check the clutch pushrods and the two internal ball bearings are in good condition (and are there) and the bearing in the gear mechanism on the inside left cover. I would remove, clean, lubricate, refit.
I hope this helps you and anyone else with a similar problem. Be patient, and have fun.
Anlaf
1. Put bike on centre stand or if you have a custom, make sure the bike is vertical with the rear wheel off the ground (that become important in adjustment.
2. Remove the left hand side engine cover/case (depending on your set-up there will be other things to get out of the way first - I only have my custom gear lever).
3. Remove the guard that protects the gear shifter shaft (you have just taken the gear lever from this item). Two nuts must be loosened/removed and the guard slides free.
4. The gear shifter shaft disappears into the left side of the engine, as is does you will see it is held in place by an E-washer (it looks e-shaped). Take a narrow-headed screw-driver and prise it away from the gear shaft from the centre of the crescent - it will come away gently, but be careful it doesn't fly away.
5. Remove a large washer that sits behind the E-washer.
6. Clean the gear shaft and apply a coat of grease (it will be passing through an oil seal and the engine, so clean and lubricated helps. That's it on the left side for the time being.
7. Drain your engine oil into a container that can hold 2.5 liters and more. Check the oil for any foreign bodies - if there are this might be a clue as to why the shifter-shaft assembly (bottle opener) broke in the first place.
8. Remove kickstarter.
9. Remove the right side engine cover/case - NOTE do not use force. Tap with rubber mallet until released. NOTE keep a thumb on the kickstarter shaft as you pull away the right side cover (or you will be spending time working out how to get that back in there. NOTE be careful and you can preserve a gasket in good condition to be refitted. NOTE you might save yourself the next procedure if the cause is a broken spring on the arm of the shift-shaft assembly (the one that operates the claw).
10. Remove the clutch - that big, terrifying looking disc right in front of you. NOTE don't mess about with muscle and destroying the heads of the six cross-head bolts, use and impact drive and be sure. NOTE keep all the various washers and plates in order and in the same position and orientation as they were on the engine. NOTE the make 27mm nut is a notorious villain - it will not budge without either a special clutch tool or (as I did in seconds) an impact gun.
11. The shifter-shaft assembly (bottle opener) has a claw reaching like a T-shape to hook under a five-pointed star (part of the gear selector mechanism). Pull the claw downards gently (it is spring-operated) and pull out the whole bottle opener from the engine and the screw-headed adjuster bolt at its foot.
12. As you draw out the shifter-shaft you will feel it bite as the raised ridge on the part that was exposed on the left hand side reaches the oil seal - don't panic. Be patient and turn it gently like a screw or bolt until it is past the seal. It is now free.
13. Check the adjustor mechanism (this is important - see my posts and videos when they download). Make sure the adjuster operates properly.
14 Refit the replacement shifter-shaft with lubrication (replacements are available - mine is from a donor engine) with the claw under the feet of the star.
15. At this point I would refit the gear lever on the left hand side to help find gears and check the mechanism.
16. Find fifth gear (the arm of the star with the 0 symbol should be at ten-past the hour if the star was a clock - this is fifth gear).
17. Using the adjuster mechanism, adjust so the peaks of the claw are equidistant from the feet of the star. NOTE this is where it helps having the bike vertical and with the rear wheel off the ground - if the star sticks between gears, turn the wheel to simulate the engine running or turn the clutch shaft anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise) and it should click in).
18. It is always wise to look for the cause of the problem. Go through a check procedure (bits in the oil, bits in the bottom of the crank case, broken springs, mal-adjusted shifter-shaft assembly NOTE release the neutral indent and make sure the spring is is good condition.
19. Put everything back together NOTE the problem may have come from a clutch problem. NOTE If your plates are worn replace NOTE if you are doing that, replace the six spring in the clutch NOTE if your six sleeved clutch bolts are in anything put first class condition consider replacing with hex bolts and sleeves (check the posts on this). NOTE check the clutch pushrods and the two internal ball bearings are in good condition (and are there) and the bearing in the gear mechanism on the inside left cover. I would remove, clean, lubricate, refit.
I hope this helps you and anyone else with a similar problem. Be patient, and have fun.
Anlaf
ANLAF
XS650 Guru
Bacsu,
If I have missed anything in my reply, don't panic, these guys at XS650.com are brilliant. I have been reading a great number of the posts and the help and support they give is second to none. I am no expert, so expect the guys to add all kinds of suggestions.
Anlaf
If I have missed anything in my reply, don't panic, these guys at XS650.com are brilliant. I have been reading a great number of the posts and the help and support they give is second to none. I am no expert, so expect the guys to add all kinds of suggestions.
Anlaf
Trade in that Maxim and get an xs650.....or join a Maxim forum. Not sure what similarities the two bikes may share besides the Yamaha name.
ANLAF
XS650 Guru
I hadn't seen the bike was not an XS650 - well, for anyone interested I have posted video-clips on YouTube.
See:
By the way, does anyone know how I start a thread?
Many thanks
Anlaf
See:
By the way, does anyone know how I start a thread?
Many thanks
Anlaf
Look for the "New threads" tab to the left at the top third of the page for tech, garage or topics......similar to the 'post reply' tab at the top of this thread and follow the prompts.
ANLAF
XS650 Guru
Thank you, my friend NJ. I have found the button and made a new thread.
Anlaf
Anlaf
