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good deal or not clutch parts help in identifing what I bought please
Measured everything I can, I found a bit of rocking play in the housing the spacer fits snug on shaft and housing still rocks a touch, I will try a different spacer. Nothing looks to have any wear.
I took all slack out of clutch and still only had .99mm. Could it be I have the worm gear on the wrong spline?? I could do that.
I measured all washers all 1mm and 2mm. My picture of parts line up is the same as everyone else. Also measured steel and friction plates.
I took all slack out of clutch and still only had .99mm. Could it be I have the worm gear on the wrong spline?? I could do that.
I measured all washers all 1mm and 2mm. My picture of parts line up is the same as everyone else. Also measured steel and friction plates.
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You can just use six of the 3mm thick friction plates from your original '76 clutch. The friction plates changed from 3.5mm thick to 3mm thick around '74 I think. After that, they never changed again. Any 3mm thick 650 friction plate will work in any 650 clutch that requires that size.
Your worm looks correct. There are 4 splines on the worm which means you can start it threading into the nylon part in one of 4 positions. Only one of them gets you positioned correctly when it is fully inserted. Each starting point will throw the finished position off by 90°, so there's really no way to get it wrong. If you start it wrong, it's so far off when fully inserted that it's very obvious.
Your worm looks correct. There are 4 splines on the worm which means you can start it threading into the nylon part in one of 4 positions. Only one of them gets you positioned correctly when it is fully inserted. Each starting point will throw the finished position off by 90°, so there's really no way to get it wrong. If you start it wrong, it's so far off when fully inserted that it's very obvious.
So, just to clear a few things up here, is that later inner hub you're using from that $10 clutch you bought or from your '81 "parts" bike? And, are those 3.5mm thick friction plates the Barnett ones you bought or were they in that clutch already?
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The inner hub is my 76 hub, that 10.00 hub was too rusty for me to want to use it.
The disks that I tried were the 3.5. They are the Barnett disks The boss is from the 10.00 clutch, Made to used with 6 disks the disks are from the 76 as you suggested I could use them.
I can roll it now in gear with clutch in. When I started it I could put it in 1st but could not shift out of first with it running. Been reading posts about the same issue.
The disks that I tried were the 3.5. They are the Barnett disks The boss is from the 10.00 clutch, Made to used with 6 disks the disks are from the 76 as you suggested I could use them.
I can roll it now in gear with clutch in. When I started it I could put it in 1st but could not shift out of first with it running. Been reading posts about the same issue.
OK, I think the clutch problem is solved. The shifting problem is probably related to the linkage. There are a couple of small springs that can break and there is also an adjustment that can be off. Unfortunately, that right side cover will need to come off again to investigate, probably the clutch assembly too. Either of the two little springs at the top can break. The lower one holds the clawed arm against the bottom of the star wheel. The upper one holds a detent drum against the side of the star. I'm thinking maybe that one is broken .....
The adjuster screw on the bottom right will move the clawed arm right or left so you can center it on the star. This controls the amount of shifter "throw" during each up or down shift. It doesn't have to be perfectly centered but if it's too far off, the claw won't push the star far enough to catch the next gear.
As you can see, mine is a little off center. My bike always down shifted fine but I would miss an occasional up shift. I offset the claw slightly to give a little more up shift "throw". It helped a little but I think my main problem is a 30 year old bike with 30K miles on it, in other words, some wear to all the components.
The adjuster screw on the bottom right will move the clawed arm right or left so you can center it on the star. This controls the amount of shifter "throw" during each up or down shift. It doesn't have to be perfectly centered but if it's too far off, the claw won't push the star far enough to catch the next gear.
As you can see, mine is a little off center. My bike always down shifted fine but I would miss an occasional up shift. I offset the claw slightly to give a little more up shift "throw". It helped a little but I think my main problem is a 30 year old bike with 30K miles on it, in other words, some wear to all the components.
it seems to shift ok when not running. I tried to further adjust the clutch today but I burnt up my 2nd cheap rectifier so Im in search of the famous radio shack parts. I could not get it kick started so cant get the clutch finalized till I get it to start. Battery is charging now.
Have a carb adjustment question if you can tell me. It is running rich, Rick from old school carbs rebuilt my carbs and set my I mixture at 1 3/4, I turned it in a 1/4 turn. Does that mixture screw lean the air or fuel when going cw? I think my year of bs38 should be 1 1/2 out
Have a carb adjustment question if you can tell me. It is running rich, Rick from old school carbs rebuilt my carbs and set my I mixture at 1 3/4, I turned it in a 1/4 turn. Does that mixture screw lean the air or fuel when going cw? I think my year of bs38 should be 1 1/2 out
All the BS type carbs used as stock on the 650s have a true mixture screw. It regulates fuel flow, not air. Turning it in cuts the flow, out increases it. In makes it leaner, out makes it richer. But this screw only adjusts idle mixture. It won't do much, if anything, for a rich or lean running condition at higher speeds. For stuff like that, you would have to change/adjust midrange and main settings. For midrange, that usually means changing the clip setting on the needle. For the mains, that usually means changing them to another size.
There's mild undercutting of the dogs that engage the 1st gear slots, helps to keep the 1st gear engaged under accelleration. Unfortunately, a slight amount of clutch drag keeps pressure on those dogs, making it difficult to get the dogs to withdraw from the slots.
Quite common on these bikes.
Some members found that if they blip the throttle, momentarily revving the engine to about 2500 rpm while nudging the shifter up, it usually pops out of 1st into neutral (or 2nd if you're too aggressive).
Myself, I habitually shift to neutral while still rolling...
Quite common on these bikes.
Some members found that if they blip the throttle, momentarily revving the engine to about 2500 rpm while nudging the shifter up, it usually pops out of 1st into neutral (or 2nd if you're too aggressive).
Myself, I habitually shift to neutral while still rolling...
Hi guys, well I finally got to ride the bike yesterday for the first time ever. I can shift the bike now. But it shifts quite hard. I may be used to a more modern bike that shifts smooth and easy. I am going to pull the clutch again and hone lightly any parts that may give me drag. Possibly get a new bearing that goes between the 1mm and 2mm washer. Was wondering if those Mikesxs sells that have more bearings are a good upgrade?
If one does not have one of the stone hones what would be a good thing to use for smoothing the edges?
If one does not have one of the stone hones what would be a good thing to use for smoothing the edges?
The MikesXS bearing is a nice upgrade simply because it has more rollers in it but it did absolutely nothing to improve my clutch operation. It made no difference in the way my clutch worked that I could see.
If you mean smoothing the sharp edges on one side of all the little teeth on the steel plates, a wire wheel will do so quickly and easily. Before I smoothed mine, I would just make sure I assembled the clutch with all the sharp edges facing in. I figured the plates would drift apart easier if they weren't fighting them.
Yes, these bikes shift a bit harder than new bikes but I guess you kinda get used to it. Do keep an eye on your shift lever. They tend to come loose because of the stiffer shifting. Using them loose can strip the splines on the shift shaft. Sometimes the lever won't tighten enough. If that's the case, you will have to file the slot a little so it will clamp tighter.
Using a longer shift lever can ease the shifting a little. If you can find one, the lever from an XS1 is about a half inch longer than the later levers ......
Here's my '78 original. It comes to about the left side of the "H" .....
The XS1 lever reaches to about half way into the "A" .....
When setting this up, I was in need of a new shift rubber. The last thing I wanted was another shit rubber part from MikesXS, lol. I was delighted to find that Yamaha still sells this and it only costs about $2. Good for another 30 years I figure.
If you mean smoothing the sharp edges on one side of all the little teeth on the steel plates, a wire wheel will do so quickly and easily. Before I smoothed mine, I would just make sure I assembled the clutch with all the sharp edges facing in. I figured the plates would drift apart easier if they weren't fighting them.
Yes, these bikes shift a bit harder than new bikes but I guess you kinda get used to it. Do keep an eye on your shift lever. They tend to come loose because of the stiffer shifting. Using them loose can strip the splines on the shift shaft. Sometimes the lever won't tighten enough. If that's the case, you will have to file the slot a little so it will clamp tighter.
Using a longer shift lever can ease the shifting a little. If you can find one, the lever from an XS1 is about a half inch longer than the later levers ......
Here's my '78 original. It comes to about the left side of the "H" .....
The XS1 lever reaches to about half way into the "A" .....
When setting this up, I was in need of a new shift rubber. The last thing I wanted was another shit rubber part from MikesXS, lol. I was delighted to find that Yamaha still sells this and it only costs about $2. Good for another 30 years I figure.
