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battery is charged and it barely turns the starter. Kick isn't working either. It's an older AGM battery that holds a charge but I'm thinking the CCA's are way down and it's time for a new one. Is there any test I can do to check the CCA's?
Get a load test done on the battery. That will show its condition. You can have a healthy looking 12v on a multimeter which once put under load, drops through the floor. Most garages will carry a load tester if you can't borrow / purchase one
ok just got it tested and 141 out of 210 cca's equals battery is shot. 'm trying to get it started to dial in the timing. Car battery wont fry anything? pamco ignition and E-advancer....
last time I rode it I made it about 20-30 miles and then it started running weak and like it was on one cylinder and then eventually nothing. dim lights. Parked it for a couple months and now here's where I'm at. hooked up to a car battery and still cranking slow and not starting. cleaned the cards this morning so I can positively say its not that.
it's been running. I rebuilt the top end less than 100 miles ago. I knew the battery was starting to go but I rode it anyways until it left me stranded the last time 2-3 months ago. I've messed with the ignition so much I have no idea where its supposed to be at.
ok just got it tested and 141 out of 210 cca's equals battery is shot. 'm trying to get it started to dial in the timing. Car battery wont fry anything? pamco ignition and E-advancer....
Make sure that the car battery is connected when you start / run the engine. If the battery becomes disconnected while the engine is running, then the regulator will not have the smoothing effect of the battery and the voltage could jump very high and fry the electrical system, including the PAMCO. This is one of the cautions in the installation instructions and it will void the warranty.
The PAMCO E-Advancer requires a minimum of 8 Volts to operate. If your battery is on its way out, then it's likely that the battery voltage will drop below 8 Volts when starting.
positive that I haven't done that. Nor have I had ignition on while having plug wire/wires removed. I would still like to test my pamco system though. it ran very strange the last time it ran and I just assumed my battery was so bad that that was causing the problem.
Last time I rode it I was having to fuss with my idle screws on the carbs because the rpms kept dropping at idle. I also assumed that was from my weak battery. I've read that a weak battery will be the cause of many problems.
Can you kick it over now that it's got a good battery connected?
Cranking slow may be a sign of a poor working starter...one way to check is to bypass all the electrical, and jump the battery to the starter directly? See if it spins strong/freely (make sure the bike is in nuetral).
To do this, you simply need to connect the positive end of the battery to the relay's thick gauge black wire going to the starter...and the negative to a good ground on the bike.
In this pic, it's the bigger black wire on the right:
This won't address your running issue/backfire, but at least you can rule out the starter itself for the slow cranking. If it's still slow, you may have oil in the starter or bad connections...It's kind of a pain, but you can remove/take apart and clean them if need be.