Handle Bar Swap

[keeger1957]

How do I remove the throttle/switches on the bars? I want to do has little disconnecting as possible. I found what I think is all the hardware to remove it. See pictures.
What should I expect from opening the switch covers? Do I just loosen them and slide them off?
One other question can I cut that white cap off the throttle? I'm doing bar ends.

 

[Jim]

Remove the 2 screws on the bottom and they peel open like a banana. The white tip is the throttle tube. Yeah you can safely hack it off.
RE: The switches. If it were me, I'd take this opportunity to thoroughly clean and lube 'em. Odds are they've never been looked at. That will save headaches down the road and (in the case of the kill sw.) possible roadside rest's while you wait on your buddy's trailer...

 

[keeger1957]

Cool good advice on cleaning. The more I get into this bike it has not been apart/cleaned in along time.
I've read there are places to sand on the new bars. Where? Will the stock bars be sanded/uncoated in the location?

 

[Jim]

Cool good advice on cleaning. The more I get into this bike it has not been apart/cleaned in along time.
I've read there are places to sand on the new bars. Where? Will the stock bars be sanded/uncoated in the location?

Depends on the bars. If chrome, no sanding needed. If they're painted, you'll need to clean paint off where the switches ground to the bars. That should become obvious once you get them apart.

 

[member28833]

Chrome bars are fine for the switches grounding needs. Painted bars require a good ground location be sanded under the switch ground contact. You will see it.

 

[Jim]

Cool good advice on cleaning.

Be sure and use a dielectric grease on the contacts.... not regular grease. Most auto parts stores carry it.

 

[5twins]

There is a retaining clip for the wire loom in the lower half of each control assembly. It doubles as the grounding clip, transferring the ground to the bars in the left control, picking the ground up from the bars in the right control .....

Notice that all the little screws used inside the controls have dots stamped on their heads. This indicates they are J.I.S. type screws that require a J.I.S. screwdriver for a proper fit .....

 

[keeger1957]

Thanks for the pictures.
I've got the right cleaner and grease but not a j.i.s screwdriver...looks like a #2 or #3 screwdriver will get that out lol. When I find the contact point on the handlebar and sand it with the oscillating tool. Cut the end off the throttle with oscillating tool. Did I mention an oscillating tool? You should own one.
I just hope my new bars allow clearance between the master cylinder and tachometer. Will post picks or be frustrated and asking questions tomorrow.

 

[Jim]

not a j.i.s screwdriver...looks like a #2 or #3 screwdriver will get that out lol.

Actually, a phillips will do a good job of buggerin' up the screw if it's tight. If you can't find a jis, you can modify a phillips with a grinder....

 

[mikesim]

Those old screws have been in place for many a year are are likely somewhat corroded in addition to being extremely tight. I would highly recommend an investment in JIS screwdrivers or bits before you tackle the job. If you booger up the screws with a Phillips then you really have problems.

Mike

 

[keeger1957]

Fail.

 

[fredintoon]

Thanks for the pictures.
I've got the right cleaner and grease but not a j.i.s screwdriver...looks like a #2 or #3 screwdriver will get that out lol. When I find the contact point on the handlebar and sand it with the oscillating tool. Cut the end off the throttle with oscillating tool. Did I mention an oscillating tool? You should own one.
I just hope my new bars allow clearance between the master cylinder and tachometer. Will post picks or be frustrated and asking questions tomorrow.

Hi keeger,
Chapman Mfg will sell you a JIS screwdriver bit set for less than the cost of removing one JIS screw you buggered up with a Philips.