hardtail for 180 rear

Who currently makes a weld on hardtail that will accept a rear tire like a GSXR or 180 size in general ?

Hi blackduck and welcome,
most XS650 weld-on hardtails can be stretched far enough apart to fit a 180 section tire.
It's lining up the drive chain and sprockets that's the problem.
The XS650 Special's 130 section rear tire is the widest that the chain will clear.
Unless you run it at an angle like a bicycle derailleur gear.
Or run the rear wheel offset from the front wheel.
Or run a jackshaft.
 
DO you think something like all you described would be too difficult for a first build. Im in no hurry but I dont want to bite off more than I can chew. Im pretty stubborn tho Ha ha... I would plan on having a shop maybe travis bend it up and take to a shop for the complete hardtail weld up. Im confident in my other welds for now. Any input welcome. Thanks for the response.
 
I have built two and both I used the universal hard tail kit and just made up new cross pieces because most kits come 8 to 8.5" and you will need 10" axle plate to axle plate. You have to offset both the top and bottom tubes. I made solid slug for bottom and just add pipe to top. Not a easy thing to do without a jig. You also need a offset sprocket to match up the chain and make up spacers. If you just want a wider look this bike has 4" rim on rear 18" wheel and runs a 140 tire and fits at 8.5" and no offset.
First two are 8.5" rear
KAW was a fat tire swing arm bike
KAW chopper has GSXR front and rear 180 on rear and I fit a 200 and this is a universal hard tail kit.
Then if you want FAT HAHA here is a KAW with a ATV axle and car tire build
 

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Its a very nice setup for the price if you want to keep the stock cover look. SPROCKET SPICIALEST makes offsets I used them on a xs650 and on many drag bikes. If you use a offset you can just cut up the back of the cover and don't need spacer. Its a different raw look but many have done it on here.
 
I have built two and both I used the universal hard tail kit and just made up new cross pieces because most kits come 8 to 8.5" and you will need 10" axle plate to axle plate. You have to offset both the top and bottom tubes. I made solid slug for bottom and just add pipe to top.

Hey daddyG, I know this is an old thread but can you explain to me how you offset the tubes or do you have any close up pics of how you did it. I really want to run a 180 or 200 tire on a 5.5 Harley wheel on this build I’m doing. I don’t have a jig which sucks. I was hoping there was a way to just use one of the prefabricated weld-on hardtails to run a 5.5 wheel but that doesn’t look possible after researching. I really wanted to run a wide tire but I’m starting to think that using a universal kit might be out of my skill set due to not having a frame jig.
 
Hey daddyG, I know this is an old thread but can you explain to me how you offset the tubes or do you have any close up pics of how you did it. I really want to run a 180 or 200 tire on a 5.5 Harley wheel on this build I’m doing. I don’t have a jig which sucks. I was hoping there was a way to just use one of the prefabricated weld-on hardtails to run a 5.5 wheel but that doesn’t look possible after researching. I really wanted to run a wide tire but I’m starting to think that using a universal kit might be out of my skill set due to not having a frame jig.

Hi Josh,
tire fatter than a 130 needs a jackshaft. Read post #3.
 
Hi Josh,
tire fatter than a 130 needs a jackshaft. Read post #3.

Yeah the jackshaft is no problem. I can build one using pillow blocks, a keyed shaft, and #50 sprockets to match a 530 sprocket. My issue is trying to get or make a weld on hardtail with wide enough axle plates for a 5.5” wide Harley wheel.
 
OK first of all anything bigger than a 200 rear tire needs jackshaft. 200 and lower does not. There were kits out there for a 200 tire that offset the cover and gave you a offset sprocket. I myself just used a 1/4" off set sprocket and cut away some of the cover for a 200 on a XS650.
Now you can buy a TC Brother hardtail and cut it down the middle to get the spacing you need and replace the crossover pipes. I did that on this bike to get the Harley 4.5" wheel on the back and tire was either 140 160 or 180 don't remember and no sprocket spacing. The trick is the ends and I cut the tops and bent the bottoms so slightly with a tube bender to get the even 10.5 inches I needed from plate to plate.
 

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There are so many sprocket company's that will make you a offset sprocket. The 200 kit that was sold was cool but you also had to change the rod for the clutch because the cover was moved out 3/4". I had bought one for a bike build and it was easy but as I looked at it my drag racing days came back and I used a 1" offset on a Suzuki drag bike I built and a 1 3/4 " on a Harley drag bike also .
 
First you need to find out what the total space is that's needed and if you got some welding skills and access to a bender you can do a hoop on the bottom and can make it as wide as you want. Build a table that you can work off of and be level if no jig.
 

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I thought we used the universal on the bike with the fat spokes but one of my guys remined me that we made frame sent it out and guy couldn't fit tire. So we took it back cut it up and made everything fit. We were just talking about frames the other day because he was hired to build a 240 sportster frame and I had mention to him about doing a 200 XS650 frame for the turbo build. This is a 200 on the universal for this KZ750 and no jackshaft or offset. I have tons of pictures but cannot get them out of old computer that died.
 

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I myself just used a 1/4" off set sprocket and cut away some of the cover for a 200 on a XS650.

How did you make that work with only 1/4”? If the front sprocket on an XS650 is lined up straight with the rear sprocket on a 130mm stock tire, and you then want to mount a 200mm tire, that means you’re adding 70mm of tire total (that’s 35mm or 1.378” on each side). So wouldn’t you have to move your front sprocket out 35mm after you put on a 200mm tire that essentially would move your rear sprocket out 35mm’s too?
 
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Now you can buy a TC Brother hardtail and cut it down the middle to get the spacing you need and replace the crossover pipes.
Now I get what you’re saying here, but then if you widen the whole hardtail by adding crossover tubes that are longer, then how do you get the bottom rail slugs of the hardtail to match up with the stock frame bottom rails? Also the top rails of the hardtail that connect to the stock seat post will now be too short since you widened the hardtail. How did you make that all work once you widen the hardtail? Basically this is where I’m stuck. I don’t have have a tube bender either to make a hoop to match up the stock bottom rails with the slugs on the widened hardtail if that’s what you’re saying.
 
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