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Help a moron; blew up my motor, how far do I need to go
501Spanky
XS650 Addict
Little bits + roller bearings = sandpaper action. You can do a lot of bearing damage in very little time. Not to mention scored shafts. The other ting is that this system runs all the crap through the engine before it hits the filters.
Arkus
XS Noob!
This was my thinking too. Why risk a "flush" now and then in a few months find that you've had shavings in all the little areas of your engine wearing away at things that if they fail the engine may not be salvagable... why?
"Flushing it" out to me is just half assing it. The engines out now, this is a good enough reason to pull things apart give it a good clean and inspection, reseal and go. Or like he mentioned, if one was thinking fairly serious about a 750 kit... again the engine is out now.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
I might as well tell my story. I baught my basket case '80 for 50$.
I didnt know a thing about mechanics, but I have always been able to look at gears and such, and under stand, so, I baught it, in pieces, with the motor together.
I checked compression, and one side good, none on the other. Peeked in the plug hole, and saw a destroyed piston.
heres what I pulled out.
after seeing that, It only made sense to split the cases, take everything out. I checked the bearings for smotheness, and used a case of carb cleaner to spray everything out, put it all back together with a 6th over topend, Baught a low mileage crank assembly for 80$, and it runs good. And most importantly, I KNOW all the aluminum grit is all out.
I'm no 30yr aviator mechanic, or 25 yr ASE mechanic, but I know when some thing is f'ed and should get torn down, and, sir, that motor there need torn down.
If you havent had one of these apart, dont worry, Its rollerbearings, and seals.
And you have us. Get out your wrenches, make some room, and lock yourself in the garage for a couple days.
Good reason for a taller 5th gear too.
member3480
RICH
I took a motor apart about three months ago and it ran find but i needed to rebuild for a customer and when i pulled the head there was a quarter size hole in one piston and i was floored that it ran as good as it did. But if your piston blew apart you better check everything and if crank looks in any way it got banged with flooting parts plus the heat it took when it smoked you better use it as a book end. You didn't get hurt this time but the way people drive around bikes the next time you could get hit from behind if it locks up. Its apart do it once and know you got good shit.
COOPERB27
COOPERB27
i would pull the cases apart & inspect all parts inside the bottom end. there is small oil passages that will hold grit & grim that flushing the motor will not get out. so kinda be like surgan, if you had somebody on your table opened up, would you sew them up not knowing if they a little bit metal shavings in them or would make sure they were good & clean so no other problems could occur down the road. just a suggeston
I agree with everyone that says to do a complete tear down and inspection. Just getting the head off will tell you a lot about what happened. and if the PM, previous moron, actually did a rebuild. Some people will say anything to sell something.
The book explains how to check for rod bearing play and how to check the crank bearing runout.
Splitting the case isn't hard to do and you will be sure all the crud is cleaned out.
As far as the 750 kit, I like mine runs strong, vibrates less. A win-win there. You do want to be sure the lower end is up to it.
The book explains how to check for rod bearing play and how to check the crank bearing runout.
Splitting the case isn't hard to do and you will be sure all the crud is cleaned out.
As far as the 750 kit, I like mine runs strong, vibrates less. A win-win there. You do want to be sure the lower end is up to it.
http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc93/jazzmans/xs650/?action=view¤t=P1000759.jpg
There is the cause. You can klick on the pic and see the others, I took very extensive pictures of the teardown, including close-up macros of the cylinder walls, camshaft, rocker arms, etc. The weird thing is, I would have sworn to you it was the right side that took a crap, but the left side piston is the one that's holed.
how bad is the wear to my camshaft and rocker arms? do I need to replace/whatever them? The piston walls are really scored, as are the cylinder walls. I haven't torn down the bottom end yet, I plan on beginning that tomorrow.
Any advice is appreciated.
jaz
twinsarehot
fu*cking lurker
Don't think those awesome pipes would've helped. :]
You're going to have to micro pretty much everything, compare it to your guide or post up the measurements here. I personally would examine the bottom end at this point.
You're going to have to micro pretty much everything, compare it to your guide or post up the measurements here. I personally would examine the bottom end at this point.
I just reread this thread and noticed that 501Spanky is misinformed on the oil flow in the engine. The oil flows out of the sump thru the sump filter thru a passage to the oil pump. It then flows thru a passage to the oil filter in the right side cover then back into the engine and tranny.
All the oil gets filtered twice before it gets fed to the engine.
A holed piston. That is most commonly a case of the timing advancer getting worn to an extreme amount and over advancing the timing causing detonation. A low octane fuel quickens this destruction. If this happens very long it burns a hole in the piston.
What year is your bike?
What ignition are you using?
All the oil gets filtered twice before it gets fed to the engine.
A holed piston. That is most commonly a case of the timing advancer getting worn to an extreme amount and over advancing the timing causing detonation. A low octane fuel quickens this destruction. If this happens very long it burns a hole in the piston.
What year is your bike?
What ignition are you using?
1975 motor, 19.99 ignition, (toyota ignition trigger, chevy ignition module, generic loss fire coil)
I only put super unleaded in the bike.
timing advance is spring/weight type, it appears to work correctly. Bike has tens of thousands of miles on current ignition system, I did re-wire everything when I bought the bike.
Also, anyone comment on the wear shown in pics, the rocker arms are a great example.
I only put super unleaded in the bike.
timing advance is spring/weight type, it appears to work correctly. Bike has tens of thousands of miles on current ignition system, I did re-wire everything when I bought the bike.
Also, anyone comment on the wear shown in pics, the rocker arms are a great example.
Flushing of engines is and always has been a myth. You cannot flush any engine clean. Lots of places sell engine flushes for cars but there's always gunk left somewhere inside. Gunk contains bits of metal. Eventually the gunk turns loose from whatever it was stuck to and it, along with the bits of metal it contains, goes circulating back through the engine eventually landing on things like bearing surfaces and cylinder walls where it works like tiny grinders to destroy the engine.
Flushing also sends gunk into filters, pick-up screens and oil pumps causing the oiling system to stop up altogether.
It might be that internal parts are fine and can be reused after a good scrubbing but flushing is not an option. Take it apart, clean it, inspect it, replace what is broken and put it back together-- correctly.
Flushing also sends gunk into filters, pick-up screens and oil pumps causing the oiling system to stop up altogether.
It might be that internal parts are fine and can be reused after a good scrubbing but flushing is not an option. Take it apart, clean it, inspect it, replace what is broken and put it back together-- correctly.
ratfinkd1
XS650 Addict
There are way to many people giving advise on here that shouldn't be. With that being said I'll give my advise backed with 15 years in the motorcycle industry.Just flushing it out will not get everything out and thats a fact no matter how many times you do it. Not to mention that its a waste of oil.
Break it down and clean the inside get all of the piston/rings out check for possible botton end damage. If you get it open and the bottom end is fine number one you'll know you got everything out and cleaned up and number 2 you feel warm and fuzzy inside when you get the motor fixed and running knowing that everythings okay and not wondering is there little bits running around in my engine?
if you don't what about the first oil change after you put it back together and you see little bits on the plug and in the oil? You gonna feel warm and fuzzy?
Great time to beef up the motor and put in the taller gear for hiway cruzin!
Break it down and clean the inside get all of the piston/rings out check for possible botton end damage. If you get it open and the bottom end is fine number one you'll know you got everything out and cleaned up and number 2 you feel warm and fuzzy inside when you get the motor fixed and running knowing that everythings okay and not wondering is there little bits running around in my engine?
if you don't what about the first oil change after you put it back together and you see little bits on the plug and in the oil? You gonna feel warm and fuzzy?
Great time to beef up the motor and put in the taller gear for hiway cruzin!
