How to check 1973 TX650 regulator

seth1981

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So I fully charged the batt and went riding. About an hour in the bike started running like crap then eventually died. The batt was dead. A buddy of mine said to check the regulator before I mess with trying to pull off the stator and check that. I have absolutley no idea how to check the regulator on this thing.

So does anybody have a video or picture directions on what to check? Ive checked but cant find anything online. I dont want to fry my tester.

Thank you in advance, any help is very much appreciated
 
**Checking between the 2 rings on the stator I have 4.3-4.5 ohms and I get no reading when I touch either ring and bare metal. This means my stator is toast right?
 
Clymer repair manual page #38. This details how to check the regulator, rectifier rotor and stator.
Haynes book page #118. Tells about the same thing.
Leo
 
Ok the rotor has the slip ring. One way to remember which is which is that the rotor rotates. The stator is stationary.
Those readings are ok. A lot of rewinds test out at 4.5 ohms. The big thing is that if the internal windings are shorted out the ohms will often be around 1.5 or less. The test from slip ring to the body of the rotor tells us if the winding are shorting to ground. Infinity is good here.
If you have poor charging I doubt that rotor is the issue.
On the stator you trace up the wire bundle to a large plug, next to this plug is a yellow wire by itself. Unplug the big plug and yellow wire. Now in the half of the plug toward the stator you will find three white wires. Number them in your head as 1, 2, 3. Now with your ohm meter set on it's lowest scale, Touch the leads together. This gives you the ohms of the leads, remember this reading.
Now touch the leads to the white wires as three sets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. you will get a reading on each set of wires. Now you need to subtract the test reading you got before when touching the leads together, from the readings you got when touching the white wires.
I know this sound like a lot of work. Meters on the lowest ohm scale are very sensitive, You need to do the test of the leads and subtraction on all testing under about 10 ohms. Above that the leads don't effect thing as much.
Any way if your test leads read .7 and the white wire reading is 1.4 you subtract the .7 from the 1.4 and get .7. Your number probably won't be these. The books spec to different ohms for the stator. One spec is .46 the other is .9, I think the test procedure changed but the didn't tell the new procedure. The white wire to white wire test two windings. This gives you the .9 ohms, I think the new procedure you test from a white wire to the yellow wire, This would test just one winding, Thus the .46. >46 x 2 is very close to the .9 of the first test.
The main thing we are looking for is that all three sets of white wires are the same.
After all thus there is one more test to do. Set the meter on a higher ohm scale, like 20k. Test from the white wires to the body of the stator. Infinity is good here.
Leo
 
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