How to identify

[nobackhair]

Been getting a lot of help w/ this issue and my dampers. One of you mentioned something about figuring out what springs you have (rears). I had a conversation going w/ Progressive and left all data I could think of but I think he's through w/ me. I have the wt., I.D., rod thickness, length and a pic. What's left? does anyone know where I might find how to figure this out? Anyway my dampers are shot and I would like to use these on my other build. One of the replys I got this wk. was about the Mintons Mods and how the drill bit no. was reversed. I almost did that mod recently. These think makes you realize how much we need to research before you make that next adjustment. Live and learn.

 

[jetmechmarty]

I'm not impressed with Progressive Suspension. I've bought my last from them. You can get exactly what you want or need from YSS or Hagon USA. They will take the guesswork out of it. There are even more better choices if your pockets are deeper.

 

[nobackhair]

Who is YSS? Never heard of them.

 

[nobackhair]

I found them. Wow!

 

[jetmechmarty]

They came well recommended and at a good price point.

http://www.yssusa.com/

 

[nobackhair]

Took a quick look at them. Lots to choose from. It kind of looks like race specific. If I can get something under 400, preferably 300 for what fits my riding style, that would be great. Thx. I just want some comfort for half day road trips. I don't test my limits anymore. I'm most concerned about making bike safer to ride.

 

[5twins]

With rear shocks that are too stiff, that can transmit to the front and cause a wobble. With you only being 145 lbs, too stiff rear shocks could be part of the cause for your front wobble. But it could be one of numerous other things related to the front end as well (steering bearings, wheel bearings, forks, tire balance, tire tread selection, tire pressure).

 

[fredintoon]

- - - does anyone know where I might find how to figure this out? - - -

Hi nobackhair,
Google this:-
compression spring rate calculator
There's several charts from different sources.
Pick the chart you find the easiest to work with and plug your numbers in.

 

[jetmechmarty]

You may find Hagon-USA a little more accomodating to your pocket book yet still able to get you the correct spring rate. I agree that the front should match. I have my old XS1100 set to 35 mm laden sag, front and back. Google search laden sag if you aren't sure what I'm talking about. I sourced my front springs from Traxxion Dynamics in Woodstock, GA. They did the calculations and nailed it. I dialed it in with preload.

5Twins message should be heeded as well. Dirty old fork oil and bad/loose steering head bearings can give you problems. Worn swingarm bushes can be another source of handling difficulty.

I have Progressive 412 shocks on the XS11 and they work OK. I just don't like their lack of support. I had to buy springs twice to get it right. I could have bought better shocks for the same money.

I don't necessarily recommend heavy springs, just the correct springs. I also have a very strong preference for straight rate over progressive wound, but that's me. If you decide to add P&D valves to the forks, you'll have to have straight rate to be able to tune them.

Best wishes.

 

[nobackhair]

I left a post from my damper thread you helped me w/ a lot. It was about the mod I was planning on for the forks. I've pretty much covered all those other issue it could be you mentioned here. I did loose a wt. on the front though. Would you mind checking that out. I ordered some 12 series rears the other day and now I'm bumbed about that based on a recent post I recieved about how he was thru w/ Progressive and to try YSS. They're twice the price but is it really going to make the difference, I don't know. I can wait another month to get them.

 

[650Skull]

The Damper thread and this thread and really both are about the same thing.

5twins stated he would buy second hand "Koni" shocks and other types then rebuild. "Koni" do not exist as a brand any more but an Australian company bought them out and re-branded under a different name......"Ikon"......The old "Koni" shocks can be rebuilt with "Ikon" parts. The quality and good name of "Koni: is still aplicable to "Ikon"

They have distributors in the US Here is a link to "Ikon" Australia, site.

 

[gggGary]

Ran into Ikon, they had a booth at the Barber Vintage weekend. Yeah seems like a pretty fair item at a reasonable price point But no experience yet.

 

[nobackhair]

I want to thank all that have helped me w/ my research into my suspension questions relating to upgrades. It wouldn't mean much if I didn't follow thru w/ the effort you guys put into it. So I've contacted and looked at as I've been capable of all the makers or suppliers of the products suggested. I had already purchased while waiting for delivery, a set of "Progressive" series 12 dampers and returned them before I even inspected them. I contacted Icon and SSA. If I go Ikon 7601's, 480.00 total. The SSA Eco are cosiderably cheaper. As I sure you all know the Ikon is hydralic and SSA is gas. I spoke to Claus? who by the way isn't easy to pick up every word he says based on his accent. I always thought gas was going to be to stiff but he says not so. I explained I wanted a comfortable ride not sport but I still want safety though curves and higher speeds. He assured me there was still comfort w/ these gas charged shocks. Anyway I'm swayed w/ the SSA's for believing in him. I like that I'll have more control of the ride w/ the Icons but my bike is light and so am I and I never add weight to it. I realize their will be times as little as they are that I would want or need to make significant adjustments but is it worth double the price? Does "get what you pay for" really going to apply in this case?

 

[5twins]

I run old Konis mostly but they are the same as Ikons. Koni stopped making motorcycle shocks and sold the rights to Ikon. They really didn't change anything on the shock so basically, they are still making Koni shocks but selling them under the Ikon name.

The adjustable damping is a nice feature but not one you mess with much. You dial them in when you get them, finding the setting that works best for you, then you pretty much never change them from that setting. The only thing you might do is jack up the spring preload if you heavily load the bike.

 

[jetmechmarty]

I realize their will be times as little as they are that I would want or need to make significant adjustments but is it worth double the price? Does "get what you pay for" really going to apply in this case?

Did you mean YSS? Yes, I agree that you usually get what you pay for. Just the same, I can't seem to justify putting $1,200 shocks on a $1,400 motorcycle. There's a compromise in there someplace. For some, pulling all the stops is justified. For me, there's a point where I jump to an updated motorcycle.