Not upset, just had a few drinks. nothing gets me upset anymore. At 63 I have seen so much, you know change is hard for me as well as others. I took that out, not cool, but really I have gone here many a time .. all the product I talk about I have used.. how about you? it cost me a lot of money, but if you haven't tried a product what do you really have to say, it is all guess. So skull have you tired one?
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How to press the PMA back on the Crank shaft , with motor in the bike ??
- Thread starter Micha7el
- Start date
I guess if the Company you mention is the most economical quality item supplier then one has no choice if their alternators are supplied without a keyway slot. I presume that you didn't choose that supplier because their alternators have no keyway ?
so .........when you have starting or running issues and suspect a ignition or timing issue , how sure can you be that it is not due to a slipped or spun alternator ?
.Me I prefer to use a key on all my tapered shafts where I have a choice because then I can be pretty certain that any ignition issues are not likely to be due to a spun alternator . Its one thing less to have to check or consider when troubleshooting so I like to take the belt and braces approach as I always look for ways to improve reliability ,and performance and save work cos I'm basically a lazy person lol
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Very interesting reference articles here, especially considering I have an old Morse taper that needs reconditioning.
I think most of my concerns probably stem from experience with my other classic 2x wheeler ....a 1964 Lambretta Li150
When new these scooters had a bhp of around 7-8bhp but now with expansion exhausts big carbs and big bore upgrades etc we are taking them up to 20 even 35bhp which for a 225-250cc engine is pretty amazing. Top speed now is a staggering 140mph on a 50 year old 2x stroke scooter with 10" wheels .
Naturally there have been some pretty spectacular failures with cranks snapping due to the alternator being spun up to 10,000+rpm
When new these scooters had a bhp of around 7-8bhp but now with expansion exhausts big carbs and big bore upgrades etc we are taking them up to 20 even 35bhp which for a 225-250cc engine is pretty amazing. Top speed now is a staggering 140mph on a 50 year old 2x stroke scooter with 10" wheels .
Naturally there have been some pretty spectacular failures with cranks snapping due to the alternator being spun up to 10,000+rpm
What I do is mark the rotor at TDC with the engine case and at the cam shaft so I no the engine is at TDC and mark the rotor so it lines up. So not mater where I was at I could check if any problem came about. I asked Powerdydnamo years ago about putting a keyway in the rotor and they said not enough material. It always looked like you could but as I said I have never had one move any of the ones I use to use for racing or the Powerdynamo for the street. I did use the powerdynamo for racing 1 years, sold the motor and then the next motors I started using PVL (do to cost and did not need lights)used them until Penton Racing retired then started with the Electrexworld , they sell race and street versions. If you are lazy this would be the system.. fine TDC align the rotor lock it down and forget it. No timing at the cam.. so and I will hear shit for this it is more reliable and accurate, if you are using points and as I said I did for 75-84 you have to stay up on them(maintenance). And finally yes I do sell them but you can buy direct from them so I really do not have a lot invested if you use it or not. It is a great product in my opinion. You can't do that with any other ignition out there.
ahh but once you've used a Boyer electronic advance ignition you'd never go back to points unless you were a masochist 
Theres enough maintenance to do on these old bikes without adding unnecessary agony
So ok I take your point about initial set up and leave but my point is supposing you are out on the road and the engine starts misfiring cutting out , won't start or whatever and you suspect something in the ignition system. How are you going to know if the alternator has slipped on the crankshaft so that you can eliminate that from your troubleshoot list on the side of the road ?
Theres enough maintenance to do on these old bikes without adding unnecessary agony
So ok I take your point about initial set up and leave but my point is supposing you are out on the road and the engine starts misfiring cutting out , won't start or whatever and you suspect something in the ignition system. How are you going to know if the alternator has slipped on the crankshaft so that you can eliminate that from your troubleshoot list on the side of the road ?
It is like I said, I like to take and make a mark on the cam shaft under the cover to indicate TDC. Once you know where TDC is you look at your rotor. is it aligned at the TDC mark down there. Pretty straight forward.ahh but once you've used a Boyer electronic advance ignition you'd never go back to points unless you were a masochist
Theres enough maintenance to do on these old bikes without adding unnecessary agony
So ok I take your point about initial set up and leave but my point is supposing you are out on the road and the engine starts misfiring cutting out , won't start or whatever and you suspect something in the ignition system. How are you going to know if the alternator has slipped on the crankshaft so that you can eliminate that from your troubleshoot list on the side of the road ?
mike in idaho
XS650 Addict
Once the initial timing adjustment is made, the Boyer (or the Pamco) doesn't care if the rotor moves or not, the works are mounted off the end of the camshaft. I keep a homemade piston stop in my toolbox, made out of an old spark plug. Takes about two minutes to verify if the pointer is still accurate at TDC.
I've never used a piston stop as you describe. Those I've used work this way.... Insert stop and rotate crank until piston touches it. Mark that position and rotate crank the other direction until again, the piston touches it. Mark that position and TDC lies exactly centered between the two marks. It's pretty foolproof.
Electric motors always use a square key on the shaft to lock the gear to the shaft. The shaft is straight. When you work on the motor always make sure the key is removed otherwise when you turn the motor on it will fly out like a bullet
