I Wheely need help

[Lester]

Hey Guys,

I am building a bike for my wife and got a hold of a nice spoked real wheel. I figurd it would be a good idea to re-spoke it and give it new bearings. So I have it all dismantaled and cleanded at the moment. When I grabbed the new bearings to put them in the freezer I noticed it didn't have the collar as the bearings I pulled out of the hub did... Check out the picture... green arrow.

Does this mean I need to make a small ring to fill in this space.... haven't measured yet, I'd say about 3-5mm.
I got the bearing kit from TC bros and the wheel is a brumbrake spoke wheel.... I have no idea what year.

Here is the wheel before I started.

Thanks
Lester

 

[5twins]

You have to tap that spacer out of your old bearing and put it in the new one. People throw them away all the time with the old bearing and then basically, they're fucked, lol. That collar is N.L.A. from Yamaha but the aftermarket has jumped in and will sell you one for about $25. Here it is shown in the exploded parts diagram, part #20 .....

It is required for bearing #21 to fit on the axle and to complete the spacing between the two bearings. The bearing set-up won't work without it.

 

[Lester]

Oh shit.... now looking closer at my own picture I see its a separate collar.....
Thought that was a funny looking bearing. Sort of want to delete this thread now....LOL
Thanks 5twins.... it helps to hear I'm not the first to over see this small detail...LOL

Lester.

 

[5twins]

Yes, the "collar" is clearly visible inside the bearing in your second pic. This spacer makes rear wheel bearing removal very simple. You find a socket that just fits the top of the spacer and drive it into the hub. It will push the brake side bearing and grease seal out. Then it's a simple matter to tap the sprocket side bearing out from the inside.

 

[Jaydela180]

Since we're talking wheel bearings....

Are pieces 23 and 24 a press fit. Since I cannot see the back of piece 24 in diagram, is it safe to assume that the protrusion of back of my 24 is part 23? Thanks in advance.

 

[5twins]

Yes, they are a press-fit. #23 is the axle/wheel spacer on the sprocket side and #24 is the dust shield over the grease seal. They're listed as two separate parts but I've never found them that way. They're always stuck together as one (and stuck good). You will see part of the stepped down portion of 23 sticking out through 24. 24 is pressed on until it hits the step in 23 .....

 

[Jaydela180]

Thanks twins.

 

[Lester]

Yes, they are a press-fit. #23 is the axle/wheel spacer on the sprocket side and #24 is the dust shield over the grease seal. They're listed as two separate parts but I've never found them that way. They're always stuck together as one (and stuck good). You will see part of the stepped down portion of 23 sticking out through 24. 24 is pressed on until it hits the step in 23 .....

5Twins,

Could you give me a rough sketch with dimensions on thouse two parts.... mine were lost before I got my hands on the wheel. Millimeters is preferd but I'll manage either way. I could make a CAD drawing for all to have after I machine the parts.

Cheers
Lester

 

[5twins]

The spacer #23 is a simple stepped affair as pictured in the parts blow-up. The wider section has a 35mm diameter and is 16mm long. The stepped down portion is 15mm long and has a diameter of 33mm. This gives an overall spacer length of 31mm and, of course, there's a 20mm hole through it for the axle. The dust shield has about a 60.5mm diameter and is a press fit on the smaller 33mm diameter portion of the spacer. It's a stamped tin part and honestly, I think it would be easier just to buy a used one.

 

[Lester]

OK so who has a #23 they will sell me......

PM me please

 

[Lester]

[/IMG]

Here she is.... new bearings, seals, spokes and all tured up.... took me 35 miuntes start to finish..



HA HA HA.... No a bit longer.... I have two questions.... I have now trued the wheel to about 1mm all around... what is the recomended tolerances?



AND.... do I need to trim the threaded bit of the new spokes that protrued in the wheel... I'd say about a good 5-6mm... so the strap alone wount do.
Just grind them down???

Cheers

Lester

 

[5twins]

The run-out spec for both up and down and side to side is 2mm so you're good. Yes, grind those protruding spoke ends off or they may poke holes in your tube.

Unless my eyes deceive me, I think you put the grease seal in upside down. The smooth side should face out (look at your second pic in post #1).

 

[Lester]

Thanks 5 twin. A grinding I will go. The picture you mention is taken before disassembly. This is how I got the wheel.
Thanks again
Lester