I don't think so. The light comes on when the points open, and they remain open for nearly 3/4 of an engine revolution. They are closed and recharging the coil for the next spark for only about 25% of each revolution.
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Idle and stalling
- Thread starter Dom
- Start date
OK thanks, I thought I had it all good but now something is playing up with my bulb setup as sometimes it won't go out after multiple rotations I've when the points are closing and other times won't light up.
I'm too tired to look at why so I'll revisit it but I'll look at the multimeter link also
I'm too tired to look at why so I'll revisit it but I'll look at the multimeter link also
Referencing pilot jets. In my experience (limited) when pilot jets are too small the idle adjustment has to open further to let the engine idle. With this open throttle, needle jets start to deliver fuel. This situation causes a rich mixture, erratic and uncertain idle. Make sure your pilots are at least at the stock setting. (if not a step up)
Well I think I've cracked the points timing, the right hand points contacts were pitted so in my box of bits I had a complete new set so I fitted them and adjusted the gap then set them up to the F mark in compression with a light bulb. Kicked it and it started first time so I consider that sorted!
Next is the carbs I suppose, it is iding now with the choke off but the left cylinder is popping a bit. I did a layman's demonstration in my video with a piece of sand paper if I can get it to upload.
Next is the carbs I suppose, it is iding now with the choke off but the left cylinder is popping a bit. I did a layman's demonstration in my video with a piece of sand paper if I can get it to upload.
I think my video is too large but essentially on the right you can hear and feel it is a nice regular beat, the left however has an irregular pop every now an again.
Both of mine seem to do that too, run a bit "rougher" on the left side, and both have electronic ignition. But even when I still had points on the '78, it was like that. Maybe just another 650 "quirk"? You may be able to minimize it by making sure the timing is set exactly and the points set is good (gapped properly too). And speaking of the points gap, using a dwell meter is the best way to set it and the only way to accurately set used points. As I'm sure you're aware, the points develop pits in the surface as they wear. But maybe what you don't know is that's where they fire, between the pits. So, it's impossible to measure that gap with a feeler gauge. The gap you've measured and set with the feeler gauge is actually smaller than the gap the points are firing between. To compensate for this when using a feeler gauge on used points, it's best to set them at or near the minimum of the spec (.012"). Also, you'll want to eventually check your timing with a timing light. The static method of setting it isn't always that accurate.
Yeah the new points I fitted made a nice even contact where as on inspection the old ones, particularly the right cylinder, where slightly pitted. Any cheap ebay timing light do the trick?
The great thing is strobes are comparatively cheap these days, so I bought one even though it's not something you use very often. Can't remember what I paid, probably about 25 quid? Used it to check the BB on the XS650 and have since used it to set same on Enfield Bullet.
