Ignition side of ignition swithch 1v low.

section8joe

XS650 Addict
Messages
422
Reaction score
3
Points
16
Location
Youngstown ohio
I'm having a slew of electrical issues with my bike. I'm trying to narrow some things down. Should the ignition connection screw of my 3 position switch be reading 1 volt lower then battery? When I test the battery screw it's getting 12.5v and when I check the ignition screw it reads 11.1 to 11.5. I believe the ignition screw should read really close to 12.5. My bike is also not charging at 14.5 and I'm hoping this switch issue will somehow be related/solve to my charging issue.
 
when you turn the key on you will see a drop in volts.. 1v is fine. check your brushes, resistance on your rotor, test regulator..

search for curlys charging guide and follow that
 
if you're saying that your +V battery tests out at 12.5 but after the ignition switch you're reading 11.1 then it sounds like you've got a bad contact in the ignition switch.

Unhook the switch and test resistance across the ignition contacts when it's closed.
 
I was going to do curly's test today but I cut a bunch of wires to try and trace down my electrical issues. I fixed the wires and was hoping this switch would be the cause of my problems. It's 95 degrees outside and my garage is hot as hell. Maybe I'll do Cury's test when I get home from work tonight. Thanks for the info on the switch.
 
if you're saying that your +V battery tests out at 12.5 but after the ignition switch you're reading 11.1 then it sounds like you've got a bad contact in the ignition switch.

Unhook the switch and test resistance across the ignition contacts when it's closed.

OK, I'll give that a try too. I'll give you guys my results later.
 
You also want to test how much voltage is reaching your coil or coils. If that's lower by a volt or 2, that can cause running problems. It probably is since 12V isn't even making it through the ignition switch and what comes through the switch then goes to the coils.
 
I'm a little confused now. My ignition switch should or should not be dropping 1v on the ignition connection? I just want to make sure we are all on the same page.

Bloodthirstysystems says:

when you turn the key on you will see a drop in volts.. 1v is fine. check your brushes, resistance on your rotor, test regulator..

search for curlys charging guide and follow that

And 5twins says:

You also want to test how much voltage is reaching your coil or coils. If that's lower by a volt or 2, that can cause running problems. It probably is since 12V isn't even making it through the ignition switch and what comes through the switch then goes to the coils.
 
These things all count: is the battery good, charged up. Are all your ground wires, connections, clean, bright, tight. With the switch ON read the battery then the igniton terminal they should be within a half volt or so, If not try a jumper, does it change the reading? If so go looking for bad connections, fuse block, harness plugs, etc.
 
You will see a drop in voltage AT the battery when you turn the key on usually (motor not running). You have various lights on now (neutral, tail light). You shouldn't see much of a voltage drop, if any, THROUGH the ignition switch. Voltage going in should be pretty much the same as what comes out the other side.
 
I have two batteries. Both are the small batteries from 650 central. Both are brand new and seem good. All my grounds seem ok. My battery reads 12.5 at battery, the battery connection on the switch is 12.5, the ignition connection is 11.1 to 11.5. All my connections are soldered and wrapped up pretty tight. Where should I run the jumper?
 
when you turn the key on you will see a drop in volts.. 1v is fine. check your brushes, resistance on your rotor, test regulator..

search for curlys charging guide and follow that

You will see a drop in voltage AT the battery when you turn the key on usually (motor not running). You have various lights on now (neutral, tail light). You shouldn't see much of a voltage drop, if any, THROUGH the ignition switch. Voltage going in should be pretty much the same as what comes out the other side.


Since I'm running that small battery I have my ignition wired up so I can start the bike without any lights. I'm pretty sure my battery doesn't drop when I turn the ignition on. I'll check it for you though.
 
Take the switch a part and clean everything up. It's nice to work in a tub so you can find hte small parts that fall out. It's not that fancy. I have always got em back together and usually working so far.
 
Back
Top