Interstate Speeds and (interminttently) Bike Dies

nj,

Any thoughts of what kind of carb problem? The issue has been very intermittent and increasing in the disabling department. So I am not sure where to start with the carbs. The last thing I changed was increasing the pilot jet from 32.5 to 35. Maybe I will start with switching the pilot back to 32.5, but then I will be back to where I was with performance. Break up at 1/8 throttle and lack of throttle response in 4th and 5th gear. I was thinking something electrical because when I pulled the left plug wire off the bike continued to run a few times and other times it would die. Unlike the right side where the right side was pulled and every time it died.
 
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What about changing the high tension leads from the coil to the plug from side to side to see if the prob follows the switch or at least checking the resistance with a multimeter? How about testing the coils also?

Since the left one was replaced, I'd replace the right float needle and seat also.

Carbs in sync?

Points may take longer to diagnose, swapping parts back and forth to isolate left/right issues, but they are easier to fix at the side of the road than a TCI w/ a high output coil that has to have both plugs grounded or risk frying it! :(
 
Sounds electrical, like poor connections that aren't handling vibrations well. Did you go over the harness and look closely at all connections? Make sure that no raw wires are exposed from chafing.
 
If your wiring is known to be sketchy from the po you have to get that straightened out.

On swapping the plug leads....not sure if the points coils fire both simultaneously or staggard. Thinking staggard so swapping leads may not help but swapping the coils may.

On the carbs at idle ....is the exhaust note the same for both sides? Any deviation from one side to the other?

If you changed the pilot due to performance problems then go ahead and put them back for now until you figure out the (sounds like) electrics.

How's the charging system?
 
Nonclow,

That was my thinking. I am going to try to switch the leads around and possibly the coils. I will probably just end up buying a carb rebuild kit and do the carbs sooner than planned. So replacing the right side needle float will happen. And the only reason I want to get rid of points is to upgrade the ignition system. From what I read overall they are much better than points and once the wiring is set to where it needs to be hopefully I do not continue to have any gremlins lurking around in the electrical department.
 
Take Warning 15,

This can be a very possible issue. I plan on doing this as well. That is why I was think I just run all new wires and insulate everything correctly. The PO just used electrical tape to wrap and cover all the wires. I know the wires going in and out of the regulator are about toasted! When I tried to mend those wires a month ago they were very frail and on their last leg. That is why I posed the question about regulators, as if there is a difference between a regulator used for points vs. tci. If there is a difference I am just going to dish the cash out now to upgrade and if not I would just replace the regulator because its in rough shape.
 
NJ,

I feel that the left side is a tad bit weaker than than the right. Even when the bike was giving my troubles through the past couple of weeks and even yesterday the left side is the one that seems to die and stall out first. As far as I know the charging system is working. I checked the battery again this morning before I left for work and the volts are at 12. So to me that says the charging system is working and the battery is not being drained. Plus over this past weekend I had the meter hooked up to the battery and when reving the motor the volts increased as R's rose.
 
Your points coils fire at different (but specific) times, not together, so to switch them, you need to swap the plug wires (at the plugs) between cylinders AND switch the wires coming from the points between coils. That will turn the right coil into the left one and vice versa.
 
5twins,

Noted. This will probably be the first thing I do. Off the top of your head do you have any guidence or recommendations on where to start with upgrading the ignition system? Been looking at the PAMCO products on Mikesxs.com. Are the regulators different between points and tci?
 
One of the Pamcos is a good choice. You already have the advance parts so don't need one of the kits that include them. Personally, I would get the E-advance version but you could use the basic one and your current mechanical advance. I'm not a fan of Mike's coils and would add my own, but that's just me I guess.

The type of voltage regulator you need is related to how your brushes are wired, not the ignition type. Your current regulator will still work fine with a Pamco. If you were planning an upgrade, like to the automotive VR115 (highly recommended), that would continue to work fine too with the Pamco. Yes, the regulators are diffeernt between the points and TCI models because the brushes are wired differently.
 
5twins,

Sweet! Thanks for the info. I am pretty sure this needs to be replaced as to how burnt up/out it is. Just wanted to make sure that the regulator will work with new inginition system before I go and buy anything. Hoping I can get a new regulator from the local dealer.

Is this the kit you are referring to?
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/14-0910.html

And if so, you are saying ditch the xs coil and go with something different. What would you recommend?
 
A new regulator from your local dealer will probably cost you upwards of $100. Get the automotive VR115, they're only about $20 and work great. Yes, that Pamco would be fine but I would get the version wihout the coil and add my own. I know I could find a nice aftermarket brand name coil for $85 or less .....

http://www.mikesxs.net/product/14-0903.html

I'm running an Andrews coil. Granted, I got a smokin' deal on the thing, $25 off eBay, but they're easy to find new for about $60. I'm using the red electronic ignition version pictured below .....

Coils.jpg


But pretty much any 2 to 4.5 ohm coil will work. I started with the yellow Accel pictured and it worked fine. Pete told me a lower ohm coil would work better so I upgraded to the Andrews.
 
5twins,

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Will the red andrews coil work with for me? Your picture states it is for a '85 and up model.
 
These are Harley coils so that's what the years pertain to. Really, what year it was on originally doesn't matter for a coil. What you need to match up is the primary rating and this one @ 2.8 ohms is good for our purposes (the Pamco). Any coil for any bike from any year would work as long as that primary rating was what you needed.
 
5twins,

I went to napa today after work. Asked for the vr115 their cross reference number was a vr1010. A four wire regulator. I am assuming it is the same thing. I got home this evening and started the bike. It ran with the choke on, but with the choke off it would idle for a few seconds then die. Just an update. But tomorrow I intend to check the coil leads, the coil, and replace and rewire the regulator.
 
5twins,

Thanks for the info. From what I can remember and tell right now. The regulator I have has four wires and all four wires are wired to another single wire. I don't have a stock wiring harness on my bike. But the thread you provided should help me out. I'm sure I can figure it out.
 
If the regulator you have installed now has all 4 of it's wires going to just one wire in the harness, I don't see how it would work (maybe it doesn't, lol). The original harness had a 3 wire connector for the regulator with a brown, black, and green wire. The black is just a simple ground, the green goes to one of the brushes, and the brown is switched power.
 
Drain the gas out of the carbs float bowl into a clean glass jar or through a paper towel. See any dirt?

Continue draining from the drain plug with the gas cap on the tank. Drain about a pint. Does the gas drain at a steady pace or does it slow?

Some filters are known to screw up gas flow from the tank. Is yours at float level or above? How large?

Have you set the gap on the points? Make sure you run premium gas on the highway so the engine doesn't hole a piston.

A condenser can cause an engine to loose ignition when hot. A bad condenser can keep an engine from reving. Classic points problems easily/cheaply fixed. Do you see sparks on the points when the engine runs?

Tom
 
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