iowa

[xs80650]

Who is from iowa on here? And what part?
Im from oskaloosa

 

[XSIOWA]

Winterset!!

 

[jd750ace]

I've only been to the corny part!

 

[jayel]

south of Fairfield

 

[lpitch1]

cedar rapids

 

[sherwin]

I grew up about 15 miles from the Iowa border, in Worthington MN. Spent a lot of time in the Okoboji/Spirit lake area, great place to spend the Fourth of July. I also rode bicycle across Iowa in about 1986 as part of RAGBRAI. Wasn't Spirit lake or one of the nearby towns where Richie Valens and The Big Bopper played their last shows? I also had a girlfriend from Harris Iowa for a few years, long time ago. Iowa is a nicer state than it gets credit for.

 

[Grimmith]

I'm by Algona Iowa, Is there anyone that is willing and has time to maybe come up to help me understand the correct way to set your points and timing. I think I'm doing it right, but then again I'm still new lol I'd be able to pay for gas.

 

[Jim]

 

[Grimmith]

Thanks Jim!, so I'm just double checking for my personal memory. The correct order to do the valves, timing, points, etc. is to do the cam chain first, then timing and point gaps, then valves?? and on a side question, do "pitted" points have a sort of dip in the middle of them?

 

[gggGary]

points tyically one side has a "gray area" the other side may have a matching raised gray area. My go to is rotate til points are closed, cut and fold a small piece of 300 or 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper, open points, slip in paper go back and forth lightly taking some spring pressure off if needed so the paper doesn't "crinkle" then clean, white paper with a bit of carb or brake cleaner, change strips, till it comes out clean. leaving a small pitted area is not a crime, you want both sides mainly smooth and mated to each other. Points are a wear item, if they have 15-20K miles on them, replace. Don't cheap out, cheap points may be worse than what you remove. IIRC the factory points were Denso. Clean, SPARINGLY re-oil the cam lube wicks. This is the point (heh heh) where many changed to a pamco, RIP.
Also badly pitted points, or bright sparks across the points with the motor running may be a sign your condensers are shot.

 

[Jim]

Thanks Jim!, so I'm just double checking for my personal memory. The correct order to do the valves, timing, points, etc. is to do the cam chain first, then timing and point gaps, then valves?? and on a side question, do "pitted" points have a sort of dip in the middle of them?

Chain tension first....'cause that affects timing. Valves any time you feel like it.
...and 1+ on what Gary said. I always "polish" the points with 400... whether I think they need it or not. Make sure that whatever solvent you use to clean after, make sure it doesn't leave an oily residue. That's a points killer.

 

[Grimmith]

Yeah other than the sandpaper I did all of it correctly....I can't get the left side to stop miss firing, or not firing at all. I feel maybe the consdors are shot...….but why would the right fire perfectly and not the left?

 

[Jim]

I feel maybe the consdors are shot...….but why would the right fire perfectly and not the left?

Each cylinder has it's own points, coil and condenser. If one fails, it won't affect the other cylinder. Could also be carb related.

 

[Mailman]

Who is from iowa on here? And what part?
Im from oskaloosa

I was born in Clarinda. Home of the Clarinda Correctional facility and the Clarinda A’s.

Go A’s !!

 

[Mailman]

Sorry, I saw Iowa and got excited.

 

[Iowa Mark]

West of Fostoria, East of May city, and north of Everly.