Its Time to Start Again

Dakon

Dakon

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hi guys, it's been a while, last time I posted was somewhere circa the end of 2019. I had just inherited a friend's 1979 xs650 project bike and was getting ready to embark on a journey of motorcycle goodness. But as we all know COVID came knocking and since I was 20 at the time in college I ended up having to put everything in storage and move back in with my parents. Now 3 years and change later I've finally got a place of my own with a garage and can't wait to get back at it, I'll be fully honest I have very little mechanical know-how but am willing to learn, but I'm not really sure where to start. The bike is not running and the electronics were completely removed before I got the bike, If anyone has any advice on where to begin it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance!
PXL_20230415_172026480.jpg
 
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I like to start with the electrics and get them sorted first. I'm currently working on a new-to-me '75 and am mostly through cleaning each connection on the entire wiring harness; just got all 4 signals working after a redoning bad connections, new flasher and replacing a very rusty socket. So go through the entire harness, cleaning tightening connections and cleaning switches. etc. until ya get power where you're supposed to...

Tell us what yr model and what "electronics" you have
 
I don't really know the full history of the bike in terms of modifications and I no longer speak with the person who gave it to me. It is a 1979 xs650 special, From some digging, I found it has been upgraded for a PMA system looking to be from Hughs handbuilt, a new points and ignition system from Mikesxs and then more bobs and ends, I've got a massive bin of some of the original parts that came on the bike. and I just bought an Antigravity 8-cell battery, there is not really any sort of harness left to speak of, just wires originating from controls and lights

Sparck Moto Universal Two Pin Flasher Relay
Switch - Kill - Start - RH - 7/8 inch - Black
Speedo from DCC
Random LED turn signals and brake light
OG(?) horn
OG(?) headlight with new housing
A few different ignition switches one might be original
also bought new brake switches for good measure
PXL_20230415_175302932.jpg
 
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Ahh; you've got a nice project ahead of you! Ya wanna make your own custom harness from scratch? The alternative is a '79 harness from Mike's that will be closer to plug&play - you'll still have to modify some connectors for the aftermarket bar switches and PMA. Tools required: good crimpers, multimeter, heat gun (or hair dryer) and maybe a soldering set-up. Supplies required: bullet connectors, block connectors (maybe various), shrink tube (various sizes), 16ga wire (copper stranded, various colors). I can get a shopping list together: Amazon & Eastern Beaver.

https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Main.html
 
When you pump the front tire up check the date stamps next to the DOT on each tyre just so you know their ages. If the tires are too old they can be slippery.

1681586061783.png


The final four digits on your DOT number will tell you the tire's age. The first two numbers of this grouping indicate the week of the year your tire was manufactured. The final two digits indicate the year that your tire was manufactured. In the photo the manufacture date was Week 30 of 2009 i.e. 3009.
 
jpdevol said:
Ahh; you've got a nice project ahead of you! Ya wanna make your own custom harness from scratch? The alternative is a '79 harness from Mike's that will be closer to plug&play - you'll still have to modify some connectors for the aftermarket bar switches and PMA. Tools required: good crimpers, multimeter, heat gun (or hair dryer) and maybe a soldering set-up. Supplies required: bullet connectors, block connectors (maybe various), shrink tube (various sizes), 16ga wire (copper stranded, various colors). I can get a shopping list together: Amazon & Eastern Beaver.

https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Main.html
Click to expand...
I have a ton of free time on hand right now so I don't mind learning to put together a harness myself, but is it still a cost-effective option considering I only have a few of those tools and materials on hand?
 
Paul Sutton said:
When you pump the front tire up check the date stamps next to the DOT on each tyre just so you know their ages. If the tires are too old they can be slippery.

View attachment 240592

The final four digits on your DOT number will tell you the tire's age. The first two numbers of this grouping indicate the week of the year your tire was manufactured. The final two digits indicate the year that your tire was manufactured. In the photo the manufacture date was Week 30 of 2009 i.e. 3009.
Click to expand...
Just checked and the tires are 10 years old, so they will be needing to be replaced by the time I reach a stage where they're hitting the road, thanks for the advice!
 
jpdevol said:
It's generally not cost-effective in that situation, but sometimes better.

Mike's harness $60 : https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-wire-harness-79f-oem-2f0-82590-52-oem-2f0-82590-52-00.html
Click to expand...
But to make it work with the aftermarket parts that I have, I still need to buy stuff so it will probably end up around the same cost...

something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2JU42WM4PJ26Q&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZSSTSJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ANYK2SEFS0EGZ&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089CW1YGM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AMHYOXF0C8EDF&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081JGYFWT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RMAOKWT22K01&th=1

I have a heat gun, a multimeter, and a soldering setup

anything else I would be missing?
 
The first connector pkg. is a good bargain - esp. if starting with a mikes harness - the crimper may not be ideal as those connectors need a jaw width of 4mm. Eastern Beaver has higher quality stuff if working from scratch and doing a lot of connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/iCrimp-Insulated-Open-Barrel-Terminal/dp/B01M1YK5FM/ref=sr_1_35

The wire pkg. is not the best - I prefer non-tinned with PVC insulation.
https://www.amazon.com/GS-Power-American-Automotive-Primary/dp/B07Y8G41BV/ref=sr_1_10

The block connectors are ok for custom work, but are not the style matching the OEM block connectors for various components you might have.
https://www.mikesxs.net/vintage-connections-connector-plug-kit.html
 
jpdevol said:
The first connector pkg. is a good bargain - esp. if starting with a mikes harness - the crimper may not be ideal as those connectors need a jaw width of 4mm. Eastern Beaver has higher quality stuff if working from scratch and doing a lot of connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/iCrimp-Insulated-Open-Barrel-Terminal/dp/B01M1YK5FM/ref=sr_1_35

The wire pkg. is not the best - I prefer non-tinned with PVC insulation.
https://www.amazon.com/GS-Power-American-Automotive-Primary/dp/B07Y8G41BV/ref=sr_1_10

The block connectors are ok for custom work, but are not the style matching the OEM block connectors for various components you might have.
https://www.mikesxs.net/vintage-connections-connector-plug-kit.html
Click to expand...
So either start with a mikes kit, use the bullet connectors to change, adapt and use the expensive block connectors, or get the more expensive wire, the cheaper block connectors and bullet connectors to make everything from scratch?

I'm trying to stick very budget friendly as I'm doing grad school and everything is a bit tight, if there's anywhere you think I can save some cash without overly compromising anything that would be idea
 
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Different ways to do it........the block connectors can match-up with the existing block connectors that may be on the bike: voltage regulator, rectifier, key switch, stator (except you have PMA). All that can be converted to bullet though: your choice. You may need some bullets and wire regardless of the approach.
 
jpdevol said:
Different ways to do it........the block connectors can match-up with the existing block connectors that may be on the bike: voltage regulator, rectifier, key switch, stator (except you have PMA). All that can be converted to bullet though: your choice. You may need some bullets and wire regardless of the approach.
Click to expand...
As I said I have a ton of time right now, I'm might convert everything to the cheaper block connectors and bullet wires, but in your opinion the better wire is a must have?
 
Dakon said:
As I said I have a ton of time right now, I'm might convert everything to the cheaper block connectors and bullet wires, but in your opinion the better wire is a must have?
Click to expand...
Yes sir, the pre-tinned stuff, I think is harder to get a good crimp and also harder to get a good solder. The silicone insulation is much more flexible where that is a plus, but real difficult to work with, generally, on a bike and especially if making a harness (or sub-harness). Amazon has a lot of crap wire - some copper clad aluminum (speaker wire) - so it's hard to shop for and get the right stuff.

Here ya go:
https://www.delcity.net/store/16-Gauge-Thrifty-Spools/p_182826.h_183019
 
You might save a bit going direct to Vintage Connections and just buy the connectors and pins you need. Mikes has their kit discounted (not sure how they do that :umm: ), but if you buy "just" the connectors you need, might be cheaper in the long run

http://vintageconnections.com/
 
Ahhh.... I see now how Mikes managed to discount that Vintage Connection kit.... they left the $45 crimper out of theirs. Same model # just without the crimper.... sob's :banghead:


1681602861849.png
 
Dakon said:
I've been to the bar he used to work at but that's about it, I've seen some of his videos to get an idea of where to start
Click to expand...
Was thinkin' more along the lines of getting in good graces and see if anyone wants to help you with the rewire. ;)
 

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