Just bought a polisher/sander.....need recommendations for buffing and sanding pads?

[Splexin]

Hey everyone,

Just bought this polisher/sander from Northern Tool: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200442254_200442254

So far I like it....more power than I will probably ever need!

I don't have any experience with buffing, polishing, or sanding but I will say that the foam pads that came with this polishing tool are a total dud . The pad disintegrated after one use. I had foam flying all over the garage lol. And I wasn't applying much pressure either (I read some articles on techniques before trying).

Needless to say I am looking for some good, quality polishing pads that aren't foam....something more substantial so I can get more than one use out of it. The backing pad on the tool seems pretty universal, but I wanted to check with you guys before I go ordering an assortment of pads. Also, I am wondering what grit I should use to sand the clear-coat off my aluminum forks? I went out on a limb and tested the included sanding pad on a tiny portion at the bottom and it left scratches, which I kinda expected but wasn't sure if the grit would be too thick.

I am using this tool to polish pretty much all the metal on my bike....crankcase, forks, pipes, etc.

Any guidance and links to recommendations would be appreciated

Thanks!

 

[mouser]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...21?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top Sellers-_-Product Page

This would have been a better choice.....It's the right tool for the job... IMHO with a bar each of black, red, and white, buffing compounds..

 

[mpiersd]

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/

Everything you need to buff an dpolish, made by Americans in America. Plus they have a free downloadable "How-To" booklet.

 

[Bigzakdaddy]

Firstly...to tell you how to buff/polish your mentioned parts, I'll need to know what condition your parts are in.
When you used the foam pad, what speed did you use? What polish, compound did you use, etc.

I handle a makita variable speed buffer for a living, I'll be happy to offer my advise if you'll provide the above info.

Posted via Mobile

 

[Splexin]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...21?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top Sellers-_-Product Page

This would have been a better choice.....It's the right tool for the job... IMHO with a bar each of black, red, and white, buffing compounds..

I'm not taking parts off to polish them...this is why I purchased the tool I got.

 

[Splexin]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...21?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top Sellers-_-Product Page

This would have been a better choice.....It's the right tool for the job... IMHO with a bar each of black, red, and white, buffing compounds..

Firstly...to tell you how to buff/polish your mentioned parts, I'll need to know what condition your parts are in.
When you used the foam pad, what speed did you use? What polish, compound did you use, etc.

I handle a makita variable speed buffer for a living, I'll be happy to offer my advise if you'll provide the above info.

Posted via Mobile

Parts are in good condition, I'm just using a metal polishing cream to remove oxidation etc. The forks as mentioned still have clear coat, which I would like to get off with minimal effort. I tried the foam pad with low speed 300 rpm up to 1200 rpm. The polish I was using was Blue Magic.

 

[Bigzakdaddy]

Ok, good info, thx.

A wool pad at low rpms will do the best work with the blue magic cream. If your still not satisfied with the result, 3m heavy duty rubbing compound with said wool pad and a spritz of h2o will Most definitely do it. It's much harsher and grittier. Nothing outside of sanding will bring out the shine better. Let me know if your headed In that direction and I'll offer more suggestions.

Remember to use a good wax after you've buffed / cleaned to protect your work. I recommend colonite wax.

Posted via Mobile

 

[Bigzakdaddy]

I left out suggestions about the clearcoat on the forks. I have ideas about how I would do it, but am not 100% positive about it and do not wish to get crucified by the many waiting sharks on this site if I'm wrong!!

Posted via Mobile

 

[Splexin]

Thank you for your recommendations. I was thinking a wool pad would do the trick.
As far as the clearcoat goes-- even my foam pad was getting some of it off so likely wouldn't need something too abrasive. I just don't want to scratch the aluminum. Previous to getting the polisher I had just been using Scotch Brite pads with good luck.

 

[Bigzakdaddy]

About scratching the metal...if scratches are apparent, use finer and finer grit sandpaper To remove them. Once you've removed the scratches, 3m compound, blue magic, wax. It's a labor of love. Just try to be patient, it may require 2 or more tries.

Posted via Mobile

 

[gggGary]

The forks were rather "scratched looking" from the factory. Paint stripper is the easiest way to remove clear coat. On lowers for a quickie I use the nylon abrasive wheels like these http://www.divinebrothers.com/products_h.html chucked in a drill. But without removing at least the wheel and fender it will be a half ass job at best. I am a firm believer in Caswells products too. Strip the engine side covers before polishing also. The clutch cover can be done in place if you remove the foot peg, brake and kick start lever. It's easier to remove the LH cover to polish it. It needs to come off anyways for cleaning and R&R of the clutch mechanism.
Cawswlls sells an arbor adapter to run buffing wheels on your buffer. I use one on my angle grinders and it works great but the 3/4 horse harbor freight pedistal buffer is better.

 

[I am Carbon]

quote Bigzakdaddy "A wool pad at low rpms will do the best work"
I have found that It will work with any polish that I have used liquid of stick. you don't have to apply much pressure with the wool bonnet and it will do a great job and last for years. I use mine with a cordless drill i also put it on my drillpress. you can polish to a mirror shine.on aluminum I like mothers aluminum liquid poilsh.