Kick Start Drive Install: Anyone got an 'easy button'?

[Wharfcreek]

Once again I'm experiencing the inadequacies of my shop manual. I'm about to replace clutch springs......so had to pull the Rt. Side cover. Needless to say, the kick start drive decided to come out along with the case. I'd also take just a moment here to 'vent' about some past owner's use of gasket sealer!! ARGH!! Paper Gaskets do NOT need gasket sealer!!!........ OK....got that out of my system!

Anyway.....after just having spent about 2 hours with a gasket scraper, some gum out spray, and a LOT of rags....... I'm now ready to start work on the clutch. I didn't order the new springs yet.....glad I didn't as now I have to order a side cover gasket as well. But, assuming they all arrive by the weekend, I'd like to have this back together by Saturday for a ride. My question is if anyone has any 'trick' for re-installing the kick start mechanism so as to get the little friction tab in the right place, the shaft 'stop' into the slot, and the return spring properly loaded? Looks to me like a somewhat 'tricky' process.....and my manual is about a cryptic as it gets on this. All it says is to 'reinstall kick start drive using ply-grips to relocate spring'. I'll take a moment to express my lack of satisfaction with the Haynes manual people as well. ARGH!!!

OK.....onward! Other fish to fry........

TSD

 

[5twins]

Try this thread .....

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25602

 

[Wharfcreek]

Hey 5t....

Well, gotta thank you for that! I got to post #3 in that thread......went to the link in that post, read through that thread from inxs, and 'Got It'!! That trick with the special tool (zip tie) is perfect! Just the 'easy button' I was looking for. Amazing how things can come together!! Unfortunately, I still have to deal with the lack of a side cover gasket.......and my need for some 'good' clutch springs. But, again, I'm going to take your advice and call Mike today and see what he has to say about just what springs I ought to use. Hopefully he'll also have a gasket.

On the down side, when I drained the oil from this engine I noted what I'd call a a LOT of 'metal particulate matter' in the soup! The last time I ran into this it was bearing failure of the rod bearings in an old Honda 350. I believe this engine had fresh oil in it when I finally got it running. It 'appeared' to be 100% new.....but when I bought the bike it had significant ignition and carb problems. I suspect it's prior owner had purchased it 'broken'......couldn't fix it himself.....and 'dumped it' on me! Though he said it ran....... he was in Florida and I was in Maryland.... so I guess he could of told me it would fly.....what did he have to lose? Anyway, after getting it running, I put about 100 miles on it, discovered this clutch problem, and now just drained the oil last night. Oil was relatively clean, a bit of carbon darkening..... but still clear on the dip-stick. But....the metal I can see in the drainage pan....THAT scares me! Hopefully it's just residue.....perhaps the front cam tensioner.....or just old casting slag. In any event, once I got the ignition and carb work done...the engine was running WONDERFULLY well. BTW, the UniPods are a MUCH superior item over those 'shit' pods off that auction site. Though I did eventually get those crap versions working fairly well by cutting away all the obstructions within the boot....... I felt an even further improvement with the uni pods. And, when I get to the final jetting, I'm sure it will improve even more. However, I can't run the bike up over about 5K in 3rd, 4th, or 5th without the clutch giving out. So, thus the work being done now. Once that's sorted, I'll be able to do my final carb tuning. I'm looking forward to that, though I hope I'm not facing having to tear the engine apart due to this metallic stuff I'm seeing in the drained out oil.

Bob, thanks again for the help!........

Tom D.

 

[5twins]

I've never found the zip tie necessary. I follow the instructions given in the factory shop manual. It's pretty simple once you understand the "why" behind what you're doing.

 

[XSLeo]

The factory book or even the Clymer book has very good instructions to install the kick start. No zip tie needed.
Leo

 

[Wharfcreek]

Leo and Bob,

Having only the Haynes book.......I found it DREADFULLY inadequate with virtually NO instructions on either removing or installing this kick-start drive mechanism. However, the thread referenced by Bob helped enormously......and 'yes'...... I used the zip-tie method.....and it worked like a charm. I might mention that I used a bit smaller zip-tie.......and the clearance on the spring over the mount was just enough that I was able to pull the zip tie clear after installing the spring......and it's all back together and working perfectly! I have a feeling it may be time to 'invest' in a 'Factory' manual!!

Thanks Guys!!

Tom d.