glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Hi,
I have a kick-start only with PMA, Pamco and Shindengen SH775 series regulator. I use a Sparx condenser and a little 0.8ah battery with a switch to isolate all the lights when I'm starting. Wiring diagram attached is mostly accurate. Brake light front and back switches are working fine, i.e., not stuck "on".
The last few days I've been unable to start the bike unless I have my trickle charger plugged into the battery. The battery is on its way out and will only hold about 11volts. The only thing in the start circuit is the condenser, battery and LED lights to my Acewell speedometer unit.
As soon as I turn the ignition on and flip the kill switch, the speedo LEDs dim completely out and I can't start it up. If I plug the trickle charger in, it starts immediately. Its acting like I either have a very high load or a short circuit.
Visual inspection of the PMA, which is very new, shows no sign of over heating. The Pamco unit looks okay and like I said, bike starts fine with more voltage. Checking the resistance between all three legs in all combinations of the voltage regulator leads, results in same low resistance. I did notice that after kicking the voltage in the Sparx condenser was only around 4 volts or so. I had another condenser, a 22,000 micro farad unit and it held just about 10 volts with a couple of kicks but still not enough to start the bike without trickle charger help.
Since everything was fine with a healthy little battery, the obvious is to replace it but I want this to start with just the condenser for peace of mind. The other thing I'm thinking about is to pull all the fuses except for the kill switch circuit to the Pamco and see if that isolates the problem. I don't want to get stuck out on the road. I'm far away from the bike for a while so can only do "arm chair diagnostics".
Anyone else run into this?
I have a kick-start only with PMA, Pamco and Shindengen SH775 series regulator. I use a Sparx condenser and a little 0.8ah battery with a switch to isolate all the lights when I'm starting. Wiring diagram attached is mostly accurate. Brake light front and back switches are working fine, i.e., not stuck "on".
The last few days I've been unable to start the bike unless I have my trickle charger plugged into the battery. The battery is on its way out and will only hold about 11volts. The only thing in the start circuit is the condenser, battery and LED lights to my Acewell speedometer unit.
As soon as I turn the ignition on and flip the kill switch, the speedo LEDs dim completely out and I can't start it up. If I plug the trickle charger in, it starts immediately. Its acting like I either have a very high load or a short circuit.
Visual inspection of the PMA, which is very new, shows no sign of over heating. The Pamco unit looks okay and like I said, bike starts fine with more voltage. Checking the resistance between all three legs in all combinations of the voltage regulator leads, results in same low resistance. I did notice that after kicking the voltage in the Sparx condenser was only around 4 volts or so. I had another condenser, a 22,000 micro farad unit and it held just about 10 volts with a couple of kicks but still not enough to start the bike without trickle charger help.
Since everything was fine with a healthy little battery, the obvious is to replace it but I want this to start with just the condenser for peace of mind. The other thing I'm thinking about is to pull all the fuses except for the kill switch circuit to the Pamco and see if that isolates the problem. I don't want to get stuck out on the road. I'm far away from the bike for a while so can only do "arm chair diagnostics".
Anyone else run into this?
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