Kill switch-help!

[pregrid]

All motocross kills are momentary. Omars makes the only exception I know of.

& a pic on my bike

I also have Omar's on mine. This is the second one, actually. Both have split the rubber boot in a very short amount of time. That's why I want to replace it. How's yours holdin' up? And yeah, seller says it's momentary. Still may go for it depending what A&A has to say.

 

[turn left]

@pregrid, mine is holding up just dandy (it's still un-used). I suppose when mine wears I'll be referring to this thread for whatever you found. I must use an on/off style switch as well since there's no keyed ignition running parallel. If you end up going with a momentary, the Honda CR kill is the best. No fancy billet but the button is larger and has more throw.

 

[pregrid]

Yeah, I've got keyed ignition so the momentary will work fine. Prolly better for me anyway since I don't wanna tell you how many times I've kicked myself outta wind only to realize the kill switch was in the wrong position!

 

[racerdave]

Pre, I don't know if it's momentary or latching, but it's a purty blue!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLY-RACING-...UA%2BLM&otn=5&ps=63&clkid=8418500650897416719

Pre, wondering what you may have found out about this switch? On/off or momentary? If momentary normally open or normally closed? If you know any of that stuff.

 

[pregrid]

Pre, wondering what you may have found out about this switch? On/off or momentary? If momentary normally open or normally closed? If you know any of that stuff.

Unfortunately I know everything about this switch. I bought one. I called prior to and they told me it was momentary. I decided I could live with that. Unfortunately the momentary is closed, as in a grounding closed. Mounted it and it's a nice piece. unfortunately the bike won't run unless I hold the button down. Still looking.

 

[XSLeo]

You can use it with a relay. Power from main switch to 86, kill switch to 85. This will keep the relay tripped.
Hook keyed power to 30, ignition to 87. This will power the ignition, push the kill switch and the relay untrips and cuts power to ignition.
Leo

 

[racerdave]

Unfortunately I know everything about this switch. I bought one. I called prior to and they told me it was momentary. I decided I could live with that. Unfortunately the momentary is closed, as in a grounding closed. Mounted it and it's a nice piece. unfortunately the bike won't run unless I hold the button down. Still looking.

Thanks! You just saved me $40.

Leo's advice is a good idea, as long as you allready bought it.

 

[racerdave]

Unfortunately I know everything about this switch. I bought one. I called prior to and they told me it was momentary. I decided I could live with that. Unfortunately the momentary is closed, as in a grounding closed. Mounted it and it's a nice piece. unfortunately the bike won't run unless I hold the button down. Still looking.

Pre, well unless I'm mistaken,someone correct me if this is wrong, the oem kill switch just shuts off power to the coils?

It sounds to me like that switch is normally open, not normally closed.

 

[XSLeo]

Yes, on the stock engine stop switch it controls power flow to the ignition. Power in on one red/white wire, out on the other. Well most years, some used a brown wire for power in.
Some years it also sent power to the starter relay, some years it didn't.
Leo

 

[racerdave]

Pre, did you hook up that switch correctly?

 

[pregrid]

Pre, did you hook up that switch correctly?

Well, yes and no. The on/off switch I originally used interupted the power to the coil. So I just connected the new switch (which also had 2 wires) to the existed wiring. Unfortunately the new switch is set up to momentarily ground the mag when pushed (thereby MAKING the connection) as opposed to breaking the connection (power to the coil) as I needed. That make sense?

 

[racerdave]

Yes, just asking. I had several response's from a e-bay vendor, crankstud, on that switch, and his final one was it is a normally closed switch, That's why I asked.

 

[pregrid]

Yes, just asking. I had several response's from a e-bay vendor, crankstud, on that switch, and his final one was it is a normally closed switch, That's why I asked.

he's the vendor I bought mine from. My ohmmeter tells me otherwise.

 

[racerdave]

he's the vendor I bought mine from. My ohmmeter tells me otherwise.

Not doubting you Dave, sorry if I came across knowitallsy.
After questioning him several times, it seems like he just told me what I wanted to hear, and then said I could send it back to him for a refund if it didn't work for me.

 

[pregrid]

Not doubting you Dave, sorry if I came across knowitallsy.
After questioning him several times, it seems like he just told me what I wanted to hear, and then said I could send it back to him for a refund if it didn't work for me.

No worries. You can't piss me off, we're on the interweb! It IS purty tho, ain't it? If you want to try it I'll send it to you, I'll even include the length of wire I cut off to make it work on my bike. Seriously. no charge. Seriously.

Dave

 

[racerdave]

I really do like that switch. Why not do like Leo suggested and tie in a relay, as long as you already spent the cash? Really simple to do, and those relay are cheap.

 

[pregrid]

I really do like that switch. Why not do like Leo suggested and tie in a relay, as long as you already spent the cash? Really simple to do, and those relay are cheap.

Thinkin' about it. Right now I'm installing a different (36 tooth as opposed to the 34 I started with) rear sprocket, changing my carb jetting, and installing Hugh's hydraulic clutch conversion so I've got my plate full at this time.

 

[racerdave]

Why rejett? I thought you've mentioned how well it ran?

 

[pregrid]

Why rejett? I thought you've mentioned how well it ran?

Yeah, well.................after further review...............and putting some miles on it, it's been running rich. rich enough to foul the plugs after 50 miles or so. It ran OK through the run but a few days later it just wouldn't start. Pulled the plugs and they were black. Haven't posted 'bout this 'cause I wanted to find the cure first. Raised the clip on the needles (effectively dropping the needles, leaning them out) and it made a big difference. Downside was after 20 miles or so the idle was (I'm guessing here) 'bout 500 to 700 rpm's higher than after 5 miles or so. So I'm changing the pilot jets to a bigger (richer) number and we'll see what happens. Keep in mind MMM's carbs are jetted for these critters but everybody's situation is different. I'm no carb wizard, I have a Guru who's giving me guidance. Stay tuned..........................

 

[racerdave]

First thought is , it should be leaner with those open stacks, but...............................

Loose pant legs getting sucked into the stacks = rich?