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Kreem tank sealer.....
- Thread starter katmol
- Start date
+1. Some guys swear by Kreem, and say that the key to success is thorough prep, but I've seen a lot of failures. I've used Caswell 2 part epoxy tank liner on 3 tanks and have been very happy with the results. The key to success with the Caswell product is thorough degreasing and careful temperature control; you want the temperature to be around 70* to 75* F. The tank has to be turned around in every direction for awhile to coat all surfaces, so you need a temperature that's warm enough that the stuff isn't too viscous and cool enough that it doesn't set up too quickly.
I wouldn't, but I already have a product I like.
The last one had weep leak in a spot I consider to be unusual. I would expect leaks to be on the bottom.
Tank prep consisted of removing petcocks and power washing. Followed by filling with hot water to strip any oil residue. Then a rinse with a pint of rubbing alcohol to dry.
I can line 3 tanks with one can. And had enough left to do this one. I had topped the can of with MEK the last I used it to prevent drying.
It was done in two stages. Apply the first and allow to day in warm to hot conditions OUTSIDE.
This a shot of it wet just poured in. You will need to rotate it to spread so I use the rubber bung in the filler hole.
I rotate it every 10-20 min for about 2 hr.s total then pop the bung out so it can vent. This is a shot of the first coat dry. It tends to skim over faster than the MEK can vapor and you can see the small bubbles where the MEK would vapor under the skim. DO NOT put your face over the opening MEK vapors are bad shit period. DO NOT smoke near the tank or put anywhere a spark might happen MEK vapors are BAD SHIT. I can repeat this but everyone has to learn on their own their own way. You roach your lungs or blow your tank up. . . . . Acetone will vapor quicker so you might not get the bubbles like I did with MEK but when I put this can up I wasn't sure when I would use the remainder and I wanted it to last.. This shot is after the first coat dried for 2 days.
This is the 6th or 7th tank I've done in 10 yr.s and have had no problems with peeling or cracking. E gas doesn't bother it and I don't worry about condensation problems.
Remove the petcock blanks after 3-4 days and you can trim the hole out easily. You do need to let it cure 5-6 days with warm weather. I've never done one in cold weather so I can't say how long it might take.
It will settle some even after rotating so leave the tank in a position that you consider to be you problem area. In this case it was on top right in front of the seat so I left it like this.
Hope this helps.
Hi Katmol: I did quite a lot of research on this very issue and chose POR15 to use in restoring the badly rusted tank on my 1976 C model this past year - and it worked super.
Several local shops told me that they use KREME - but I kept hearing stories of people who found that it flaked off - particularly if there was any ethanol in their local fuel. Overall, I formed the view that KREME is a product that is obsolete and not really very effective compared to more modern chemistries. Conversely, I heard a lot of good things about POR15 including a very compelling video testimonial by Jay Leno who says that it is used all of his restored cars and they have never had any problems with it.
I bought the POR15 product motorcycle tank kit at a local auto supply store, watched the videos online and then went to town. The hardest part was sealing the petcock holes. Duct tape was totally useless, so eventually I made a couple of "gaskets" out of an old inner tube and then made two backing plates out of used hotel room access cards. The whole gasket-hotel card assembly was secured to the tank with the petcock screws and it worked just fine. The fuel inlet filler hole was sealed with a plastic sheet secured with a very tight rubber band.
There are three cans of liquid in the POR15 kit:
1) a cleaner which must sloshed around in the tank for about 30 min. to remove rust and other crap;
2) an enchant to prep the bare metal for the coating - same 30 minute sloshing thing;
Then you must rinse the tank thoroughly with water and dry it with a heat gun.
3) Finally, you pour in the sealant which is a thick gooey silver coloured creamy liquid - more 30 minutes of gentle "tumbling" the tank to evenly coat the inside. After 30-45 min. of tumbling, you have to get the excess sealant out of the tank through the fuel filler hole (a much harder task than you might think).
NOTES:
- the sealant must be thoroughly mixed by stirring before you pour it into the tank - and do NOT shake it - you do not want bubbles in it;
- the sealant cures to a very very tough dry finish which is impervious to any normal solvent (afterall, it is supposed resist gasoline) - so do not get any of it on the outside of the tank.
The only thing I can tell you about all of these operations is that the various sloshing and tumbling steps are exhausting on your arms. Frankly, it took me a very long time and my arms were dead at the end of the job - but it was well worth the effort. The inside of my tank now has a tough, fuel-proof silvery lining which looks brand new.
Good luck!
Pete
Several local shops told me that they use KREME - but I kept hearing stories of people who found that it flaked off - particularly if there was any ethanol in their local fuel. Overall, I formed the view that KREME is a product that is obsolete and not really very effective compared to more modern chemistries. Conversely, I heard a lot of good things about POR15 including a very compelling video testimonial by Jay Leno who says that it is used all of his restored cars and they have never had any problems with it.
I bought the POR15 product motorcycle tank kit at a local auto supply store, watched the videos online and then went to town. The hardest part was sealing the petcock holes. Duct tape was totally useless, so eventually I made a couple of "gaskets" out of an old inner tube and then made two backing plates out of used hotel room access cards. The whole gasket-hotel card assembly was secured to the tank with the petcock screws and it worked just fine. The fuel inlet filler hole was sealed with a plastic sheet secured with a very tight rubber band.
There are three cans of liquid in the POR15 kit:
1) a cleaner which must sloshed around in the tank for about 30 min. to remove rust and other crap;
2) an enchant to prep the bare metal for the coating - same 30 minute sloshing thing;
Then you must rinse the tank thoroughly with water and dry it with a heat gun.
3) Finally, you pour in the sealant which is a thick gooey silver coloured creamy liquid - more 30 minutes of gentle "tumbling" the tank to evenly coat the inside. After 30-45 min. of tumbling, you have to get the excess sealant out of the tank through the fuel filler hole (a much harder task than you might think).
NOTES:
- the sealant must be thoroughly mixed by stirring before you pour it into the tank - and do NOT shake it - you do not want bubbles in it;
- the sealant cures to a very very tough dry finish which is impervious to any normal solvent (afterall, it is supposed resist gasoline) - so do not get any of it on the outside of the tank.
The only thing I can tell you about all of these operations is that the various sloshing and tumbling steps are exhausting on your arms. Frankly, it took me a very long time and my arms were dead at the end of the job - but it was well worth the effort. The inside of my tank now has a tough, fuel-proof silvery lining which looks brand new.
Good luck!
Pete
meanEG
XS650 Enthusiast
For what its worth, I have used both Kreme and redkote. Kreme belongs in the store shelf, not on mine. Redkote works great. If you do decide on that, O'Reilly's has it in stock usually. Also, another word of advice if using this, I have learned that cutting it with a little acetone really helps with the drying time.
meanEG did you get the bubbles with acetone?
Anybody tried this Yamaha brand stuff?
YAMALUBE FUEL TANK RUST REMOVER & NEUTRALIZER KIT
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/942/35556/Yamalube-Fuel-Tank-Rust-Remover-&-Neutralizer-Kit
YAMALUBE FUEL TANK RUST REMOVER & NEUTRALIZER KIT
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/942/35556/Yamalube-Fuel-Tank-Rust-Remover-&-Neutralizer-Kit
meanEG
XS650 Enthusiast
I don't think so, it is a rough texture though. I think the rough texture was from the pitted metal after acid cleaning.
weaselbeak
XS650 Junkie
Thumbs up on the red-kote. Tough as nails, sticks to anything. I've had 100% positive results with it. Just give it enough time to cure.
meanEG
XS650 Enthusiast
Oh, I forgot to mention that this time around I used vinegar instead of muriatic acid to clean the tank. I filled it to the top and let it sit for about 4 or 5 days. It's way cheaper than muriatic acid and doesn't eat the metal. This technique works for all types. It looked perfect when done.
+1 on The Redkote. I used it on my GPz and it is holding up well. I had a restorer tell me the entire tank could rust away and you would end up with a tank made of Redkote. Some PO used kreme on my cop bike tank I am anticipating it's failure based on the other BS work he did.
Hitndahedfred
Do I look like a people person to you?
I have a half gallon of Evapo-Rust I am going to use on mine to remove the residual rust after tumbling it in the dryer with BBs in it.
Was told this is the best stuff,,,and the safest to use. NO VOCs.
Will report back when its done. I really do not wanna line the tank if I do not have to.
But that is why I'm in this thread.,,If I need to line it, to see what everyone else is using and the success ,,,or failure of those products.
Was told this is the best stuff,,,and the safest to use. NO VOCs.
Will report back when its done. I really do not wanna line the tank if I do not have to.
But that is why I'm in this thread.,,If I need to line it, to see what everyone else is using and the success ,,,or failure of those products.
I believe the key to this with any of them is proper prep and following the directions. I favor the Caswell liner, but I know two people who failed to have success with it. Is that the politically correct way to say it? The negative thing about Caswell is that I don't think there's any way to remove it. I acquired two tanks that the liners failed.(not Caswell) I removed one of them with acetone. For others, you may have to use paint stripper.
Caswell says their liner sticks to rust. That saves a lot of work, but I'd be careful with that. I used http://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-rust-cutting-resin-abrasive-tumbler-media-60542.html
It doesn't cut metal, just rust. I let it tumble in the dryer for a couple of hours and then vacuum it out. Easy. YMMV.
Caswell says their liner sticks to rust. That saves a lot of work, but I'd be careful with that. I used http://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-rust-cutting-resin-abrasive-tumbler-media-60542.html
It doesn't cut metal, just rust. I let it tumble in the dryer for a couple of hours and then vacuum it out. Easy. YMMV.
meanEG
XS650 Enthusiast
Never thought of the tumbler stuff. That's cool. Redkote will cover rust as well. I just wanted to to get all of it out for peace of mind. 3 gallons of vinegar probably cost as much as you electric to run a dryers. The vinegar was too easy. Fill it, wait a few days and dump it. Rinse with alcohol, dry and fill with sealer.
Vinegar works fine. I understand molasses does too, but it's slow, especially in January.
I add about two cups of phosphoric acid to the 3 or four gallons of water in the tank. It works overnight or pretty quick depending upon the acid concentration. I did the last one that way right after the resin block treatment. My result was clean metal. The Caswell liner looks a bit like a coat of glass, so I didn't want to see rust or black stuff. I got the result I was looking for.
Odd that rust keeps coming back, where does the bike sit? I have several tanks that have not been sealed and with ethanol gas occasional use and stored in the shed they stay bright and shiny inside.
weaselbeak
XS650 Junkie
I've used Evapo-Rust on fine gun parts, etc. It works very well and is quite forgiving on the metal itself. I've had not such great luck with vinegar.
meanEG
XS650 Enthusiast
Maybe the vingar does eat metal, weaselbeak? I was pretty sure it didn't. Mine sat in the tank about 5 days and it didn't leak through. I like the idea of the tumbler. It would work really well if you had pinholes in the tank already.
Vinegar eats metal, as does any acid. Leave a six-pack of Coke or Pepsi in your kitchen cabinet and forget about it. Sooner or later those cans are going to drain. (phosphoric acid) That six-pack of Billy Beer still ain't leakin'.
