Little help with my tranny????

rwingsfan

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Alright had been very reluctant to split my cases myself, but after being charged $50 just to be told that the cases needed split :doh: and that it would cost me upwards of $1000 to repair, I decided I just have to take the plunge and do this stuff myself. Well I have a factory manual and read here at the forums alot. Anyway splitting the cases sucked, but after heating it up with my garage heater, it finally yielded. Well I found some nasty stuff earlier in my oil filter, bits of gear teeth, and part of a cotter pin? It looks like I lost the cotter pin on the shift fork

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Guess that then got cauught up and allowed it to wallow around. I think my first gear should not look like this

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:wtf:

Anyway tomorrow I am going to clean eveything up good, order a used transmisson and whatever else I need. Any tips on what else I will need for reassmbly? I am hoping that installing the new trans misson won't be too bad and I hope I can call upon the knowledge base here to help me out. Actually I am fairly proud of myself for getting this far. BTW, when this happened the bike still ran good, so I think the top end was spared. Want this right so what else should I check while I am in here? Thanks all!!
 
think you said earlier that the tranny had been replaced? if the old cotter pin was reused it might have cracked from being bent before or didn't get bent to lock it in? just look the new gear set over to make sure the engagment dogs and pockets in the gears aren't rounded off, shifter forks aren't worn or bent and you should be ok
 
Ya when I first got the motor first was out so the guy installed a set from a old motor I had, guess that did'nt work out so well. Everyhting else looks ok. Can I get by just replacing first gear or should I do a whole assembly? None of my manuals really show how it all goes back together. I has parts break downs, but no real assembly instructions. What should I look for as I put it back together?
 
It has side to side on shaft #16. The other two have just a slight movement, this one much more. Not syre I understand what you mean about " in or on" the cam drum. Cannot tell whether #13 rollers are there. i am assuming they are as I was unable to remove #14. Also my manual does not even show#13


side to side on the # 16 shaft or in/on # 1 cam drum (note the # 13 rollers) all there?
 
#13's are little bushings that the shift fork pins go into on the shifter cam drum if it's missing or out of place fork could move side to side jumping the rest of the way out of gear when under load and breaking stuff, look at the pic I posted to see them (3 of them)
 
In the pic you see the wavy grooves in the shift drum? #13 rides in the groove, #14 connects #13 with shift fork, they cotter pins hold #14 in the shift fork. As the drum turns, #13 rides the groove, moving the shift fork along the gude #16. The shift forks being engaged in the gears move the gears along the shafts they ride on. This engages and disengages the gears.
 
I am thinkin I have no #13 in mine. I pulled out #14 with a magnet and did not get anything else. The other two shift forks have virtually no side to side play, this one moves 1/4 or more
 
I am thinkin I have no #13 in mine. I pulled out #14 with a magnet and did not get anything else. The other two shift forks have virtually no side to side play, this one moves 1/4 or more

you can tell if it needs the #13 bushing the #14 pin will have a turned down end, the bushing may be in the slot of the drum and trapped by the shifter fork, just not in the proper place to be caught by the pin end... when you get done YOU'LL be the transmission go to guy :laugh: be sure to tell the guy who re-built it before what you think of his work :mad:
 
Well finally figured out what happened I think. The PO when replacing the trans did not put #13 in with the pin, thus allowing the side to side play I mentioned. After recieving the new trans which came complete with forks and #13's I put #13 in with the pin and wah-la no side play. I am thinking the side play is what got things going, in turn busting the cotter pin, in turn shredding five teeth off of first gear. Now to get it back in there correctly. Ironically I am going to be trading this motor off anyway, but has been fun poking around in here, but my spare time is getting a lot harder to come by.
 
I don't think the bits of the cotter pin did the damage to the gears.
I think the extra side play kept the gears from fully engaging. This put the load on the edges of the gear. That may be why the teeth broke.
On most rebuilds, taking the shift mechanism apart isn't done. Just the shafts and gears get lifted out and replaced. On your tranny with the shift forks working right just drop the new shafts and gears inplace. Try spinning the input shaft and shifting through the gears. Check engagement. If all looks good your ready to seal it up.
One thing about it now you did learn something about your bike that you didn't know.
 
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