Tips, pics or thread links appreciated.
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looking for trailer hitch ideas, fab and install
- Thread starter weekendrider
- Start date
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- Tags
- frame
Punkskalar
Hugh's HandBuilt
If you need a trailer, just go buy a Convertible car... J/K - Kinda
The bikes I have ridden with trailers have really great brakes and are much longer than the XS650. Stability is an issue to consider with these short wheelbase bikes and adding any kind of weight that will want to "push" the bike around.
The bikes I have ridden with trailers have really great brakes and are much longer than the XS650. Stability is an issue to consider with these short wheelbase bikes and adding any kind of weight that will want to "push" the bike around.
Punkskalar,
So I guess maybe a 16 footer with 6K lbs.of pissed beef or lost babies on the hoof would be
a bit much? Ok maybe I'll scale back from the fifth wheel/ goose neck thoughts. J/K kinda.
A simple ball hitch for a light trailer will get me by. Your education would be helpful as to anchor points and size material.
So I guess maybe a 16 footer with 6K lbs.of pissed beef or lost babies on the hoof would be
a bit much? Ok maybe I'll scale back from the fifth wheel/ goose neck thoughts. J/K kinda.
A simple ball hitch for a light trailer will get me by. Your education would be helpful as to anchor points and size material.
BigJimmyW13
XS650 Guru
your anchor points would be the axle plate area. And wrap around the rear wheel
Punkskalar
Hugh's HandBuilt
You'll want a 3 point mount, axles are easy, plus something up higher to keep it from wanting to twist and such. Triangulation is key. What kinda weight are we looking at here?
BigJimmyW13
XS650 Guru
Problem is the 3rd point would have to be attached to the swing arm right? Which would still be anchored to the axle plates.
Punkskalar
Hugh's HandBuilt
Depending on the design. It could be a 4 Point system with 2 points being the axle, and the upper points being at the upper shock mounts. There would be some pivoting and travel, but if carrying a trailer, heavier shocks should be used anyhow.
BigJimmyW13
XS650 Guru
The ones I have seen were either mounted to the swingarm or came from the "fender" and/or the supports for the fender. Oh yeah. I have never built one. Just going off of what I can remember from the FEW that I have seen.
Punkskalar
Hugh's HandBuilt
Yeah, a better place would be all frame mounts really, and take the suspension out of the equation.
BigJimmyW13
XS650 Guru
Ok we agree. You need to chop up your bike weekendrider :-D
Purplezinger
XS650 Addict
I'm not an expert but I've pulled motorcycle trailers all over the country. The last one I owned I pulled 26000 miles before I sold it. You do not want a trailer connected directly to the rear axle. Let me repeat that, you do not connect the trailer directly to the axle. The hitch must be mounted to your frame if you want any suspension. I have pulled trailers with a ball hitch and that is not the best way to do it. There is too much play in a standard ball arrangement. The rod end joint coupler is superior. You do not want your trailer racking around while your leaned over in a curve. There are a number of good M/C trailer companies, do a google search. My personal trailer was a Bushtec, They are light weight, easy to pull and track well. I am not in any way connected the company but they have experts there that can answer your questions There is however, a down side, they are pricey but what is the cost of safety. http://www.bushtec.com/
Wouldn't be hard to set up a braking system that worked in conjunction with the bikes rear brake.
@ Punskalar and BigJimmy I was hoping to have this done by Memorial Day weekend so hardtailing to getter done right may have to wait.
I'm glad you changed course, the swingarm thing had me scratching my head.
This is a special frame so the upper shock mounts and the mounts for the grab rail was looking like possibility? I was looking in the scrap pile and have some 3/4" black pipe and flat strap. The trailer is an early 80's Shoreliner so I suspect it may go 300 lbs. But I am pulling it home empty (300+ miles). TX750 rear hub and dual front brakes.
@Purplezinger Thanks!! I'm sure it is the old ball style and will look into the rod end joint.
I had considered the pintel (sp?) type. Any thoughts on those?
I'm familiar with Bushtec, they are nice. But this one is free.
I'm glad you changed course, the swingarm thing had me scratching my head.
This is a special frame so the upper shock mounts and the mounts for the grab rail was looking like possibility? I was looking in the scrap pile and have some 3/4" black pipe and flat strap. The trailer is an early 80's Shoreliner so I suspect it may go 300 lbs. But I am pulling it home empty (300+ miles). TX750 rear hub and dual front brakes.
@Purplezinger Thanks!! I'm sure it is the old ball style and will look into the rod end joint.
I had considered the pintel (sp?) type. Any thoughts on those?
I'm familiar with Bushtec, they are nice. But this one is free.
hi guys,,, i was lucky enough to meet an old guy in orbost victoria australia , kevin barnaby,, about 6 years ago ,,he was 78yrs, old then,,he actually started the old bastards motorcycle club,, you had too be 70 when you got your motorcycle licence,,,, anyway ... he had a honda xl250 trail bike with a tow bar on the back and he used to hook up the fibre glass trailer to go shopping with each week locally around orbost .. his drama was the actual fabrication set up and tow bar was long instead of being as short as possible ,,and with a full load of shopping in the trailor as he slowed to go round a corner the trailer plus the weight would push the rear wheel side ways ,,, but he came to expect it and slowed right down turning..... and still enjoyed riding regards oldbiker
Hooking to the rear footpegs and upper shock mount should work. Maybe the rear turn signal mounts too.
Never pulled a trailer behind a motorcycle but here are some universal rules that will help.
The longer the trailer the better it will behave.
Center your weight over the trailer axle.
Brakes should be designed to stop in the following order: Steering, drive axle, trailer axle. Any other combination increases the likelihood of jack knife and or high side.
Never hook a trailer to a live axle.
Always have some sort of trailer suspension.
Keep load weights low to the ground.
Bigger trailer tires roll easier but are also harder to stop rolling.
Learn to corner by using your mirrors, lest you hook your trailer on something that can pull you down.
You may have to experiment with tire pressures as the recommended pressures may be too low or too high and both are bad.
The closest I ever came to a trailer behind a motorcycle was at 35mph on this: http://www.lassiter.com/mov/jones.html
The longer the trailer the better it will behave.
Center your weight over the trailer axle.
Brakes should be designed to stop in the following order: Steering, drive axle, trailer axle. Any other combination increases the likelihood of jack knife and or high side.
Never hook a trailer to a live axle.
Always have some sort of trailer suspension.
Keep load weights low to the ground.
Bigger trailer tires roll easier but are also harder to stop rolling.
Learn to corner by using your mirrors, lest you hook your trailer on something that can pull you down.
You may have to experiment with tire pressures as the recommended pressures may be too low or too high and both are bad.
The closest I ever came to a trailer behind a motorcycle was at 35mph on this: http://www.lassiter.com/mov/jones.html
The hitching points should be as low as possible and as far forward as well.. Think about the direction the weight is going pushing and pulling on the bike. if hitching high then the bike is going to be pushed upright when you are trying to lean into corners,especially on deceleration, and pulling you over when accelerating out of a corner. the lower the mount the better center of gravity, as leo said the rear foot pegs or maybe where the swing arm bolts on. In one of the links i posted it mentions the weight of the trailer should not be more than a third of the bike weight
That's why I suggested the rear foot pegs as the main anchor points. The shock or turn signals is just to hold the hitch at the right level. In this case straight back or a bit down from the foot pegs. The next lowest place might be the center stand. I think move the mount that far ahead would be more flexible than at the foot pegs. More apt to flex against the tire or swingarm. The shorter from the hitch to the mount point will be stiffer.
If at all possible you will want your hitch/ball/hook/pin to be at the same height (level) as your rear axle so that everything turns (leans) on the same plane. Anything else will put you in a bind when cornering.
Ditto Skull on weight.
Ditto Leo on rear footpegs as main anchor points.
Ditto Skull on weight.
Ditto Leo on rear footpegs as main anchor points.
