Low voltage at coil and pamco?

faber

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My problem is low voltage. 9 volts at coil and red wire on pamco. This is with the ignition and kill switch on and fully charged good battery. When I unhook red wire from coil I get about 12 volts coming from harness. The weird thing is when I check green wire voltage on pamco while spinning rotor it's normal and goes from about 1 volt to 12v. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Chris.
 
My problem is low voltage. 9 volts at coil and red wire on pamco. This is with the ignition and kill switch on and fully charged good battery. When I unhook red wire from coil I get about 12 volts coming from harness. The weird thing is when I check green wire voltage on pamco while spinning rotor it's normal and goes from about 1 volt to 12v. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Chris.
Well, lets start with the good battery. It may test good as far as voltage is concerned, but you need to get it load tested to really know if it is a "good" battery. The voltage on the green wire does in fact go from near zero to battery voltage as you turn the engine.
 
Well, lets start with the good battery. It may test good as far as voltage is concerned, but you need to get it load tested to really know if it is a "good" battery. The voltage on the green wire does in fact go from near zero to battery voltage as you turn the engine.
Well, lets start with the good battery. It may test good as far as voltage is concerned, but you need to get it load tested to really know if it is a "good" battery. The voltage on the green wire does in fact go from near zero to battery voltage as you turn the engine.
Battery is load tested and good. I separated the master switch ignition switch and no difference in voltage. I don't understand why I get a full 12 volts at red wire when unhooked from coil and then drops below 10 when hooked to coil. Hmmmm. Ive run the engine without the regulator or pma hooked up and get the same rough running problem with less than 10 volts at pamco. Again this is with a fully charged and load tested battery.
 
When the red wire is unhooked from the coil, there is no current flow in the circuit, so your meter is only measuring the battery voltage of 12 volts. Now when you connect the coil into the circuit, you have created a path for current to flow through the coil, through the Pamco (the pamco must be in the dwell period) to ground. The current flowing from the battery through the main fuse, the key switch, the ignition fuse and the kill switch creates something called a voltage drop. This is OHM's LAW. E =I X R . Voltage equals current times resistance. As an example the voltage drop is 3 volts (12 -9) , if the current is 4 amps and the resistance is 0.75 ohms, then the result is 3 = 4 X 0.75. That is why you see only 9 volts when current flows.

A more normal resistance for the fuses, key switch and kill switch would be about 0.25 ohms. Using E = I X R again, 1 = 4 X 0.25
In this more normal case, you would only have 1 volt drop, so you would have 12 volts from the battery and 11 volts at the coil/pamco.
So, somewhere along the path from the battery positive terminal to the ignition coil, your bike has a larger than normal resistance.
It could be a fuse holder/fuse or the key switch or the kill switch or maybe a combination of all of them. You need to measure the resistance of that total path, and then each device with an ohmmeter to see what you measure.

I'm going to suggest that the engine running rough has nothing to do with the Pamco ignition.
You could have carb problems or spark plug problems, etc. When was the last time that the engine ran with no roughness?
 
This makes a lot of sense. I am suspecting some extra resistance from somewhere. I've tested resistance in the switches, circuit breakers and all grounds. All .4 ohms or less. The spark is weak, not like it used to be, which led me to testing voltage at coil. Spark plugs, wires, gas, and carbs clean and good. I'm going to try cleaning connections to see if I can get closer to 11v. I also don't suspect pamco.
I will try resistance in total loop and each device.
Thank you
 
Its difficult to accurately measure low resistances of say less than 1 ohm. The meter leads themselves can be 0.5 to 0.7 ohms. Cheap meter leads are hard to use. High quality meter leads are more accurate.
As a test, you could use a length of #16 gauge wire to bypass the key switch, kill switch and fuses, to see if that would bring the voltage back up to 11 volt area.
 
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