Machining/turning rotors to 5mm

I spoke with my buddy last night who works at a large aerospace firm. He has access to all the machines after hours. He's going to take some of our discs in and do them up. I like that edge treatment and will see if it's something he can do (I'm sure he can). With the holes and the edge treatment, we might be able to knock a pound or so off these things.

I know this is supposed to improve handling but I have to admit, I noticed no difference between the lighter SR disc and the original. Maybe it's still not light enough?
 
Yes, the SR disc bolts right on. Some of the 5mm slotted rotors from the XS1100, maybe the 850, are bolt-ons as well. If you're shopping eBay, you'll just need to ask the seller a few questions to verify fit. You will need to make sure the diameter (298mm) is correct. Some of those models had smaller diameter discs on the dual set-ups. Also the offset, about 18 to 19mm measured from the front disc face to the back side of the mount area (my SR disc measures about 18.5mm, the 650 one about 19.5mm). That 1mm difference in offset didn't seem to cause any issues with just bolting it right on my 650. I've been running it for several years with no problems.

Something I have noticed is the thinner disc does seem to get hotter and heat up quicker. It's never caused any problems like brake fade or anything. I think it's just a normal thing - thinner discs run hotter because there's not as much mass there to dissipate the heat.
 
Skip to bottom for short and sweet version about the rotor material and drilling tips.

I talked to one of the machinists at work about helping me plot my drill pattern, and he naturally asked about the material I was looking to drill. I explained that no one really knew what it was, but it was some sort of stainless steel. He then told me that stainless steel has high heat retention, so he thought it was odd that they used it and said it's probably low quality. I told him that it was, because it was stainless, but it was also magnetic. This made something click for him, and he told me that it's probably what they call a "hardenable stainless", it can be heat treated and annealed. This made a lot of sense to me because a lot of people have had varying results while trying to drill the rotors, and this would explain why. The people with the correct tools and knowledge have an easy time of it because they know and can control exactly what they are doing. The average person doesn't have access to that stuff and ends up doing it incorrectly. He said you should be at like 350rpm while drilling this stuff, otherwise you are just going to end up work hardening(heat treating and hardening the rotor with the drill bit) the hole you are trying to drill, and then you have to try to drill hardened stainless, which is extremely difficult. He told me what alloy he thought it was, but I didn't catch it.

Talking to a machinist, the material is probably what they call a "hardenable stainless". Martensitic stainless is what I think the actual name is. I did not catch exactly what alloy he thought it was. He suggested about 350rpm for a drilling speed. If your RPMs are too high, you can harden the material in the hole you are trying to drill, which makes it MUCH harder to drill. He also said that stainless retains a lot of heat, which means that drilling holes the same size, or smaller then the thickness of the rotor would be beneficial because it creates more surface area(the walls of the hole), therefore promoting cooling
 
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Weaselbeak: that might actually be a really good idea. Off the top of my head, I don't think that would change the total area around the edge of the rotor, so that number would end up being unchanged, it may act like the holes do in the rotor and clean that part of the brake pad, and since you are removing material, it should reduce the weight.

Just did some rough math(so take it with a grain of salt), and using the rotor in the link as a guide, assuming 4mm deep notches with 45 degree edge angles. There would be a gain in surface area around the outside edge of roughly 7% I believe. The weight reduction for a 7mm thick rotor is around 5.2 grams per notch, meaning 93.6 grams total(there are 18 notches in the picture), which is about 3.3 ounces.
 
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