Yup - it sounds like your supplier muffed it.
Dang!
Dang!
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Miss November XS2 tribute
- Thread starter Raymond
- Start date
Have ordered a split link with hopefully correct part number #9466219001 from XSshop.de. The photo on their website showed a rivet link with a shoulder over which the end plate fits. Hopefully. And using my lifetime's worth of 'judgement & experience' I would hazard a guess that the pin in the photo is 3.00 mm not 2.60 mm. Hey ho.
With shipping, total cost is about 5 x price of part but I told myself long ago not to feel bad about prices of small items for motorbikes. Hundreds of manufacturers, thousands of models, each with variations over the production history, and thousands of parts for each model, so with millions of individual items and a complex reference system using part numbers which often supersede earlier part numbers its probably a miracle that we're able buy the part we need at all. And when you consider the capital cost of the stocks of parts held by distributors across the world, we probably should not complain too much about the final price.
With shipping, total cost is about 5 x price of part but I told myself long ago not to feel bad about prices of small items for motorbikes. Hundreds of manufacturers, thousands of models, each with variations over the production history, and thousands of parts for each model, so with millions of individual items and a complex reference system using part numbers which often supersede earlier part numbers its probably a miracle that we're able buy the part we need at all. And when you consider the capital cost of the stocks of parts held by distributors across the world, we probably should not complain too much about the final price.
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Today, feels like we're paused. Tank, side-panels & mudguard with the painter, barrels with the welder, head away for aqua blasting, cam chain link 'on order'.
But there's always things to clean. Removed most of the remaining gasket that's stuck around the crankcase mouth, cleaned up the cam box, polished the valve covers. Oh, and made up a gasket for the alternator cover:
And Good News on the cam chain tool - nice, polite email to Yambits about the tool not being up to the job. They asked for a photo, which I duly sent:
and they have agreed to a full refund.
Onwards and upwards.
But there's always things to clean. Removed most of the remaining gasket that's stuck around the crankcase mouth, cleaned up the cam box, polished the valve covers. Oh, and made up a gasket for the alternator cover:
And Good News on the cam chain tool - nice, polite email to Yambits about the tool not being up to the job. They asked for a photo, which I duly sent:
and they have agreed to a full refund.
Onwards and upwards.
Excellent progress Raymond.
I’ve heard that YamBits is a very good outfit indeed.
Pete
I’ve heard that YamBits is a very good outfit indeed.
Pete
Do you get to keep the tool? lol. Because it still can be used as a riveter and chain side plate press, and you can buy replacement pins from Motion Pro.
As a aside to this tool story, I made the mistake of loaning mine to the "hammer mechanic" kid down the street so he could rivet a new drive chain on. It came back to me with the end of the rivet pin all buggered up. But this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. This is when I discovered the Motion Pro replacement pins. Their rivet pin is much better with a better shape to the rounded riveting end. It works much better that the original did.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0059
As a aside to this tool story, I made the mistake of loaning mine to the "hammer mechanic" kid down the street so he could rivet a new drive chain on. It came back to me with the end of the rivet pin all buggered up. But this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. This is when I discovered the Motion Pro replacement pins. Their rivet pin is much better with a better shape to the rounded riveting end. It works much better that the original did.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0059
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Thank you for the suggestion, 5twins.
I get to keep the tool but don't think the Motion Pro pins will be available in Scotland. However, will have a chat with a couple of engineers in Galashiels - give them the old pins and see if they can knock up something similar but in more durable material. Good opportunity to see how the welder is doing with the barrels at the same time.
Have to say, really enjoy using a bike to go out and about on errands related to another bike I'm working on. The ride has destination and purpose, you meet these interesting people doing different trades and you have a chat with them on motorbikes and related technical subjects. Plus, excuse for another ride when you go over to show them the finished bike. Eventually . . .
Anybody here read Matthew B Crawford 'Shop class as soul craft'?
I get to keep the tool but don't think the Motion Pro pins will be available in Scotland. However, will have a chat with a couple of engineers in Galashiels - give them the old pins and see if they can knock up something similar but in more durable material. Good opportunity to see how the welder is doing with the barrels at the same time.
Have to say, really enjoy using a bike to go out and about on errands related to another bike I'm working on. The ride has destination and purpose, you meet these interesting people doing different trades and you have a chat with them on motorbikes and related technical subjects. Plus, excuse for another ride when you go over to show them the finished bike. Eventually . . .
Anybody here read Matthew B Crawford 'Shop class as soul craft'?
Should you find the Flexoid gasket paper becomes too brittle at engine temperatures then there is a UK alternative for high temperatures. It looks and feels similar to the material that Athena uses:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-TEM...hash=item3d7d5054cb:m:m73PGjv9SA6-cyPD6N5AtTQ
I have used this for the valve adjustment covers and it worked well.
When it comes to bearings then there are a couple of bearing suppliers with shops on Ebay and they are selling the Koyo bearings for the front and back wheels for half the price of the motorcycle suppliers.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-TEM...hash=item3d7d5054cb:m:m73PGjv9SA6-cyPD6N5AtTQ
I have used this for the valve adjustment covers and it worked well.
When it comes to bearings then there are a couple of bearing suppliers with shops on Ebay and they are selling the Koyo bearings for the front and back wheels for half the price of the motorcycle suppliers.
Yup - items like bearings, nuts and bolts are very seldom motorcycle specific parts. Once you have the relevant dimensional data, you can go to just about any industrial supply house and buy the same thing for a fraction of the prices charged by YamaHonSuzukasaki and a pittance compared to the prices charged by the “Bavarian Manure Wagon” crowd.
That’s why the parts fiches on places like Partzilla are so helpful - they often quote that relevant dimensional data along with the OEM part number.
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Paul, thank you for the heads up. I haven't had problems with my homemade gaskets but perhaps selective where I use them. The alternator cover should be ok.
Fully agree with bearings etc. Learned the lesson back in the early '80s - needed camshaft bearing for Yamaha SR500. The Yamaha dealer in Dundee quoted some high price - this was a very long time ago, was it £34 + vat? - and promised they could have the part within a week. If it was in the European distribution facility. Otherwise, would take three weeks to come from Japan.
A mate told me to go to the Koyo Bearings office and just the quote bearing size - I think it was 6009CS. The chap behind the counter was very apologetic, 'Hmm, CS, that's a very unusual bearing, we don't have one here. I'm afraid we won't have it till tomorrow.' The price was about £4. 'Where do you work, Sir?' Well, I was a student at the time. 'Oh, good, our University discount will take that down to £2.20 - shall I order that for you then?'
Today, just back from Duns, after a very pleasant ride on the Honda NX to collect the aqua-blasted cylinder head from Mark Paxton:
It's a great process.
Tomorrow, maybe start some valve lapping . . .
Fully agree with bearings etc. Learned the lesson back in the early '80s - needed camshaft bearing for Yamaha SR500. The Yamaha dealer in Dundee quoted some high price - this was a very long time ago, was it £34 + vat? - and promised they could have the part within a week. If it was in the European distribution facility. Otherwise, would take three weeks to come from Japan.
A mate told me to go to the Koyo Bearings office and just the quote bearing size - I think it was 6009CS. The chap behind the counter was very apologetic, 'Hmm, CS, that's a very unusual bearing, we don't have one here. I'm afraid we won't have it till tomorrow.' The price was about £4. 'Where do you work, Sir?' Well, I was a student at the time. 'Oh, good, our University discount will take that down to £2.20 - shall I order that for you then?'
Today, just back from Duns, after a very pleasant ride on the Honda NX to collect the aqua-blasted cylinder head from Mark Paxton:
It's a great process.
Tomorrow, maybe start some valve lapping . . .
The head looks nice!oday, just back from Duns, after a very pleasant ride on the Honda NX to collect the aqua-blasted cylinder head from Mark Paxton:
It's a great process.
Hmmm. Having difficulty removing the dowels pins, visible in the above photo of the cylinder head. Well, able to remove one easily with gentle use of long-nose pliers. But the other one? Have escalated as far as use of mole grips (vice wrench in US?) - head face protected by cloth - to turn the dowel. But unable to apply enough upward force to budge it.
Dowel not looking too happy with this level of abuse so have pushed the boat out and ordered 2 x new ones.
When force is required to remove a part, it's my habit to stop and have a think. And my thought this time was, other people must have dealt with this same issue. So ask . . .
Dowel not looking too happy with this level of abuse so have pushed the boat out and ordered 2 x new ones.
When force is required to remove a part, it's my habit to stop and have a think. And my thought this time was, other people must have dealt with this same issue. So ask . . .
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200 degree oven? Aluminum expands more than steel when heated.
Gary - genius!
Forgot all about that technique. Used to put my SR500 crankcases in the oven to get them apart. Main bearing was very tight fit and held them solid until cooked.
Just pulled the cylinder head out of the oven and, with a few twists and pulls, dowel now out. Just visible on the piece of rag.
Only set the oven to 180°C 'coz I'm a coward and din't want to find a pool of melted alloy . . .
Forgot all about that technique. Used to put my SR500 crankcases in the oven to get them apart. Main bearing was very tight fit and held them solid until cooked.
Just pulled the cylinder head out of the oven and, with a few twists and pulls, dowel now out. Just visible on the piece of rag.
Only set the oven to 180°C 'coz I'm a coward and din't want to find a pool of melted alloy . . .
Delicious served with marinara sauce and a sprig of parsley.
Now we're really cooking!
With the dish removed from the oven, time to fit valves and springs:
Then, off to Galashiels to collect the barrels. Even made an attempt to hone them:
They don't look perfect - marks out of 10 for a first attempt? - but the glaze has gone and there is a satin, cross-hatched finish which ought to assist with bedding in the new rings.
Then, off to Galashiels to collect the barrels. Even made an attempt to hone them:
They don't look perfect - marks out of 10 for a first attempt? - but the glaze has gone and there is a satin, cross-hatched finish which ought to assist with bedding in the new rings.
Today have lapped the valves and, after removing the dowel pins, had a go at leveling the face on a sheet of fine wet & dry on a sheet of thick glass. Then after lots of cleaning refitted the valves with new valve guide oil seals. I think that leaves the head nearly ready for refitting.
Using the honing tool was an adventure as I have never done the job before.One annoyance was that the drill chuck kept 'losing' the honing tool. Very difficult to try and run the drill at a slow speed, so while concentrating on trying to keep the tool moving up and down the full length of the barrel despite the drill losing it, I probably erred on the side of under-doing? Produced lots of oil full of black residue. Probably a mix of metal and honing stone, but I don't want to remove too much metal.
I don't know what the cross hatching should look like but to me the finish is better than the polished look before. Might take the block to an experienced m/c engineer for an opinion.
Geeeezzzz....I might be wrong but as he is in the US, I suspect that Gary meant 180 deg. F - not 180 deg. C!
....even so, the melting point of aluminium is over 650 deg. C so you’d be OK at 180 on either measurement scale.
Phew - either way, it’s hot in here.
Pete
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