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Miss November XS2 tribute

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Raymond, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. fredintoon

    fredintoon Fred Hill, S'toon. Top Contributor

    Hi Raymond,
    my shift lever-tightening bodge was to drill a 1/8" hole into the shifter/shaft spline interface and drive a roll-pin into the hole.
    Use a 1" long roll-pin so you can remove it with a vise-grip should you need to remove the side case casting.
     
    Raymond likes this.
  2. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Like 5twins, I'll take a little out of the slot. I've found the easiest way (for me) is to clamp it up in a vise and use a cutoff wheel on a die grinder.
    You could also close up the gap by tightening the bolt, clamping it up in a vise, remove the bolt and run a hacksaw down through the slot. That'll take a blades width out of the gap and should tighten it up nicely.
     
    gggGary and Raymond like this.
  3. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider & fettler XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Gentlemen, thank you for the suggestions. Fred, that sounds like a bit too much engineering for the tools I have available. Jim and 5T, I think the assumption is that the gap on the lever closes up but the lever is still loose? Jim's remedy sounds do-able. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if the gap closing up is indeed the problemo.

    Have seen a rat bike with a set of mole grips tightened onto the shift shaft? Just kidding . . .
     
    thuban and Jim like this.
  4. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    I don't care for the later shift levers or the aftermarket replacements. They have the lever welded to the splined clamping part .....

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/y...?ref=6bc613d06addf25531f3ee74bc24f897c46920c3

    I prefer the earlier levers because they're cast as one piece. In particular, my favorite is the very early lever used on the XS1 and XS1B, maybe the XS2 as well. It's slightly longer than the newer levers so it gives you a bit more leverage .....

    [​IMG]

    One way to I.D. them is the clamp bolt goes in from the top .....

    [​IMG]

    I think all you need to do to fix yours is file the slot bigger so it clamps tighter. I've found I pretty much need to do this to all of them to make them clamp on tight. It takes a thin file like a points file but if you don't have one of those, you can use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel to grind the slot larger.
     
    RustiePyles, Raymond and thuban like this.
  5. jetmechmarty

    jetmechmarty Project collector XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Agreed. I have an aftermarket lever on my bike. It gets loose. I really have to put torque on that bolt to tighten it securely. Too much torque, IMHO.
     
  6. jetmechmarty

    jetmechmarty Project collector XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    upload_2021-9-1_13-37-55.png
    The new OE replacement is the same as you get on the aftermarket. If you want the one @5twins posted, you have to find an old one used.
     
    Raymond likes this.
  7. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Yes, Yamaha started using welded shift levers near the end of production, by '81 maybe? I don't like the look. I think they look cheap.
     
    jetmechmarty likes this.
  8. thuban

    thuban Horse Scratcher XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I'm like JMM. Tighten it up till it squeals and it still has a tendency to walk off. So does the kick starter if you use it all the time. Least mine does. Have to watch it. Could try a piece of brass shim stock. If the threads go in mine, I be drilling thru and fitting a stainless cap bolt with nut and lock washer on the bottom. And as said, all this if the gap isn't being pinched shut.
     
    Mikey and Raymond like this.
  9. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider & fettler XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    5T, I know what you mean about the welded gear levers looking cheapo. The Yambits ones are kinda like that. Jerry Heiden has much nicer looking levers but I doubt they are Yamaha made, my guess is Emgo. In a minute, gonna go and take a look see if I can figure a way to help Miss November with her age-related slackness, as it were.
     
    Jim and Mailman like this.
  10. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider & fettler XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Well, that's a useful little job done. Didn't take very long and cost me nuffink.

    Took Jim's/5T's suggestion, clamped the lever in a vice to close the gap - I reckon even that action would help distort the metal in a good way - and ran a junior hacksaw down through the gap. Cleaned the swarf out, light touch of grease and refitted:

    PICT2702.JPG

    I don't have a 'before' picture, but the screw is showing about 1½ threads now and it was about flush or just a little way out before. The main thing is that the lever is good and tight on the shaft now.

    I left the fibre washers to make sure it runs well clear of the alternator cover. BTW, the photo shows just how used the alternator cover screw heads are.

    Next job that calls for attention, and I'm flummoxed on this one, the seat lock doesn't. Well, it locks the seat down but it takes hardly any effort to pull the seat up so the lock is barely holding it. Not really a security worry but I suppose it's a safety issue as I've seen MoT testers check that the lock holds the seat properly.
     
  11. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Yes, your bike is old enough that it came with the nicer looking cast lever, well worth saving. I told you it was an easy fix, lol. They all seem to need it too. Do continue to keep an eye on it because they are very prone to coming loose. You may want to add a lock washer to the bolt.

    I've changed those alt. cover Phillips screws to button head Allens .....

    [​IMG]

    I did the same for the points and advance cover screws .....

    [​IMG]

    I tried regular Allens but thought they stuck out too much. For the alt. cover, Yamaha cheaped out and used screws that were too short (10mm long). They don't reach in far enough to use and fill all the threads available to them. For replacements, get 12mm long screws .....

    [​IMG]

    ..... and here's the points/advance cover size .....

    [​IMG]
     
    thuban, Mikey, Raymond and 1 other person like this.
  12. fredintoon

    fredintoon Fred Hill, S'toon. Top Contributor

     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2021
  13. Mikey

    Mikey got muscles in his head that ain't never been used XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I'm going to have to make a list and order all new screws where ever I can
    Thanks for the above info that's 2 screws I don't have to figure out
     
  14. jetmechmarty

    jetmechmarty Project collector XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I think you've responded with the same post someplace else. My SK has these and probably copied from your post long ago.
     
    Mikey likes this.
  15. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Yes, I've mentioned the alt. cover screws being too short many times.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. thuban

    thuban Horse Scratcher XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Stainless steel engine bolt sets are available. Top sets, side sets, Do a web search.
     
    Mikey likes this.
  17. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    The couple screws I mentioned above are usually all I replace. I keep the original side cover Allens because I paint the heads black anyway. I like the contrast that gives to the polished cover.
     
  18. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    I suppose the latch post on your seat could be worn. Anything is possible on these old bikes, lol. But it could just be the seat/helmet lock assembly needs a good cleaning and greasing. They can get pretty crusty in there .....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Luckily, the seat latching part is right on top and can be easily popped out with a little screwdriver .....

    [​IMG]

    Maybe it's so crusty the spring isn't returning it all the way so it's not latching into the seat post completely.
     
    Raymond likes this.
  19. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider & fettler XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Thank you again 5T! Good photos and spot-on advice.

    I've had the lock apart a few times. The helmet lock function works fine. The seat lock is dodgy, to get the lock to 'engage', I have to turn the key fully clockwise and push the seat down fully - I lean on it. Then it holds, but a fairly easy upward pull will bring the seat up.

    Makes me think either the latch isn't engaging very far onto the catch - is that the right word, I mean the long piece that hangs below the seat. Or the catch moves sideways - there's plenty of room either side of the latch as your photos show.

    Here's the Orange One's lock:

    PICT2703.JPG PICT2704.JPG PICT2705.JPG PICT2706.JPG

    The catch, in the second photo, is rubber mounted and can be wiggled side to side. That might be what is happening. Or latch and catch are not engaging very far. But I can't see what is happening in there, which is why I'm flummoxed.

    Is the catch normally rubber mounted? Or has this been modified by some PO? I can see why some give is desirable or you might end up with a seat that just won't shut.
     
    Mailman likes this.
  20. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider & fettler XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    While those photos was being took, two packages arrived with some excessive goodies:


    PICT2707.JPG


    I suppose it's future proofing? The footrest hanger rubbers on the bike are fine, but wearing a bit and I've seen discussion of how hard it can be to find good rubber parts so when I saw an original Yamaha set at a reasonable price that looked like a good investment.

    Similar story with the alternator brushes and the clutch adjuster cover. Checked the brushes and they're fine but they will wear out in time. The clutch cover always needs it's leaves tweaked slightly and it still rattles, plus there's a few small dents, so for a fiver . . .

    Nice to have a few spares in the garage.
     
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