Motor Rebuild

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I am putting together a couple motors and going to post some pictures of the build for guys who never seen the inside of a XS650 motor. They will start with cases up and hopefully it helps some guys out. There are other motor builds I am sure but going to try and make this simple step by step I hope. Here are some pictures of everything broke down.
 

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Motor was blasted and broke down and cleaned out. New seal, Gaskets, Valve Seals, Cam Chain, Cam Guides will go into this motor. Head was broken down and valves cleaned up and will be lapped back in.
 

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My video camera sucks but I will try and do some video too
BUT pictures last forever HAHA
If there is something special you need to see I will take my time on it.
Example
Guys who never spit there cases and go to put back the crank. There are little pins that have to line up with the bearing holes if not cases will not drop in together easy.
Same with trans. Bottom end always scares people. I already assembled the new cam chain but the next motor after this I will do that so you can see how it goes together.
Some builder put the cam chain in last and then crush the rivets . I like the old school way put it together with the cam guide and then put the cam in threw it. Just my way of knowing that the cam chain is connected good. I did a CB750 years ago and thought I crushed the rivets good enough. Stated the motor and bang cam chain hit the valve cover and I did damage to the head. So now some may say this is the hard way but never had one come apart and I have built over 150 motor in the past 35 plus years. OK anyone that needs any info on what you are building (QUESTIONS) you can contact me at DADDYGCYCLES@YAHOO.COM ....My computer skills with pictures and videos are week but threw email I am good. OLD PERSON what do you want ...I REMEMBER when gas was 27 cents a gal and I had a 67 SS 396 CHEVELLE that ate it like candy. HAHA
KEEP CHOPPIN
 
OK got up about 5am and started to clean and start putting one of the motors together. I am going to explain and show you how to drop in your crank and trans. This is just to show so cam chain is not installed yet.
There are pins in the one case which match up to the crank holes in the bearings. There are more than one way to do this but I always work from my left to my right and seems to work. As you can see in pictures the pins have to line up and drop into the holes if not you have space and cases will not close. You can mark the outside bearing and pin if that helps get you in the area. I start with the outer one then work in dropping each pin in the hole. When you get done each bearing will rock back and forth so you know its in the pin and you will see no space under the bearings. Again I gave a picture.
 

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Now the last picture with the last set shows the space you don't want and this first& last picture is the way it should look when done and cases will lock down easy. If you want to test you work drop the other case on and you will see it goes down before you tackle the trans.
Trans does the same thing bike in neutral drop top rack in make sure clips are in groove. Drop in bottom rack same thing make sure clips are in grove and if you did it right you can hold one shaft and spin the other that's neutral.
Now if I had cam chain on again test fit the other case .Use some Yama Bond or and light sealant and put the case together for the last time . Use the bolt tighten diagram that is on here to tighten bolts. REMEMBER most of these are 10mm so don't superman them.
 

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More pic's of trans and just take your time. I use oil on all the moving parts when I am ready to seal cases for good so motor doesn't sit dry until you add oil and oh yeah have a great weekend won't be back in garage until Monday got to sit my ass on the beach and chill.
KEEP CHOPPIN
 

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No problem I am building three motors at once so this is a good time to show and tell because I suck with videos and I can do all three at different steps with pictures and it looks like one build. There is just not enough info in manuals unless you see and read.
Anything that you don't under stand or I missed let me know. I am also when one of the motors are done put it in this frame hook the parts up to show how it runs. Then I need a video...
 

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DADDYG, can you tell me if I can pull the neutral detent bolt without dropping the spring and stopper cam into the engine? I was wanting to put a spacer inside the hollow bolt to increase the spring tension to maybe help locate neutral easier.
 
this is awesome! im finishing my stand today and getting ready to attempt to rebuild my first motor. ill be following.
 
Johnt3
I will send you a picture but it may just be the trans. A lot of guys have the same problem trying to get it into neutral. I had a 1977 that the only way to get neutral was to kill the motor. Later trans are much better 79/80/81/82 never had problem finding neutral but I will post a picture of what comes out when you take it apart.
I just checked and by the diagram it comes out threw the top. There was a tread on here that a guy had a broken bolt that leaked.
You have the bolt spring and pin.
View attachment 17757
http://image.slidesharecdn.com/yama...22824-phpapp02/95/slide-23-728.jpg?1326430442 HOPE THESE PICTURES HELP
 
Thanks DADDYG.If you get a chance to get a pic that would be great! Yeah, mines a '78 and yes I've got the bolt spring and pin if the blow up is correct. I adjusted the clutch again and got her a little better.I was looking at the clutch push screw and thought about drilling another hole short of the stock clevis hole to give me some more movement.
 
Don't know if that would help but there was a couple threads on hear about trans and this problem. You may want to look them up and read them maybe some help. I have built close to 50 of these suckers and I must admit that I only had two or three that had a hard problem getting into neutral. Like I said I had a 77 and everything I tried still had no luck getting it to go into neutral easy but if you killed the motor it went easy. I read on hear about the newer trans and that motor needed a rebuild and it go pistons-gaskets-seals-and a 81 trans and it worked. Didn't even change the shift drum. So I though it was the trans. If you find something out I would love to know and I got spare trans if you need parts and you want to experiment. There are many many good builder on here maybe its time to again start a tread on it and get some fresh info. I build a bunch of race motors and cut the dogs for better shifting at high revs and always wondered if I undercut one of these if that would cure it.
By the way on another note 2nd week in SEPT for you fast guys that live near NJ we will be at ATCO Raceway running three bike at the east cost fastest Shootout. If you never seen fast bikes come close to 200 MPH in 1/4 mile NO WHEELIE BAR stop by and say HI. Going to be a great weekend.
 
Hey DADDYG, I spent some time looking at those trends and there is mention of spacing the spring,but no pics of the process or details. It sounded like a good idea and made sense. Sorry about the tread highjack DADDYG, and Thanks for the offer of parts.
 
No problem this is what this thread is about Helping out and info for guys who want to tackle a rebuild. Any info is welcome.
 
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