My new bike, mild mod, first I have to get it running right

I am having clutch problems too. Read the book, but where the book says a 1/4 turn try 1/8 (or slightly less ) at a time. The sweet spot is very small and you can go past it very easy. The instructions in the one book ( Haynes I think ) are a little misleading . They say to loosen the lock nut , turn the adjuster till it bottoms out, then turn back a 1/4 turn, then hold the screw and tighten the nut . Then adjust the cable at the perch so you have 1/8 in free play .

This procedure never worked for my clutch . But I may have been doing it wrong . I was turning the adjuster clock wise , then backing it out . That only made it worse. Tried turning counter clock , then turning in 1/8 . That worked enough to get the clutch to engage/disengage , but it is slipping like crazy and now the push rod seal is leaking.

I got all new parts on order. I think the PO , from some of the spare parts I got with the bike , installed a new clutch and messed up .
 
Scrambled, The procedure you describe is the right way to do it. I have the Haynes , Clymer and a pile of factory books and none of them say to turn the adjuster till it bottoms out, they say till you feel resistance. If you turn it till it bottoms out you will screw it in way to far, it won't bottom out untill spring bind.
Loosen the lever adjuster for plenty of free play. Now at the worm adjuster in the engine cover loosen the lock nut. Now back the screw out a few turns, now screw it in and out a bit to get a good feel for the resistance of just the screw. That way you will get a better feel for the increase in resistance meaning you have taken all the slack out of the parts between the adjuster and pressure plate.
At this point you need to back the adjuster out the 1/4 turn to give you a bit of play. With out any play your clutch may slip.
Now screw the adjuster in untill you just feel resistance. Once you feel the resistance back out 1/4 turn.
Hold the adjuster so it won't turn, lock down the lock nut.
Now at the lever adjust for about 1/8 to 1/4 inch free play.
That's what the books are telling you. Remove the free play then back off for a certain amount of free play. Once you get the right free play adjust cable for free play. You can adjust the cable a bit to move the sweet spot in toward the grip or out away from the grip. But if you move it in toward the grip it may not open the pressure plate enough for easy shifting or finding neutral.
The sweet spot or friction zone is very narrow. Maybe 1/2 inch of lever travel. This is the point from just as the clutch starts to engage till when it's fully engaged.
Even as narrow as it is you still need the adjust the lever so the sweet spot is out toward the lever.
Just the nature of the beast.
Leo
 
If the 1/4 turn out won't get you a good lever feel A slight change in the procedure might help. After you feel resistance back out 1/8 turn or as I do one flat of the lock nut. Or about 1/6 turn. The lock nut will spin with the adjuster screw, as you adjust the screw. I just turn it back the one flat, easy to see.
This is how I adjust the worm. This adjustment with the worm welllubed as well as a well lubed cable make the clutch lever pull as easy as it can get. I even have heavier springs in mine, 70lb springs, stock are like 50 lbs, I can pull my lever with two fingers.
Leo
 
Good to know!

I'll ask my roommate if he has a pair, if not harbor freight isn't far away. I broke down and ordered this seat from Vietnam.

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I like it. It's not too thin, it's simple. And I don't have to modify the frame.

what is the exact make and model of your thin seat from vietnam I love it !! I have a 76 xs650 and would like one I love what you are doing with you bike thanks rourke
 
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