Well I'd replace it......
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
My new bike, mild mod, first I have to get it running right
- Thread starter jpanichella
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build custom maintenance
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
I figured. Are you willing to part with one of your spares or should I get the stainless one?
I've been buying them from mikes that's what i have on the shelf, new ones from mikes.
Say would you look through the M/C overhaul thread now up in the garage? You just did one, see if the thread covers everything you think it should, thanks.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7862
Say would you look through the M/C overhaul thread now up in the garage? You just did one, see if the thread covers everything you think it should, thanks.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7862
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
This is great and very thorough. I was able to access littlebill's brake bleeding thread, but not that one. That's as step-by-step as you can get.
I'm going to just do it right and get the stainless piston. I'm hoping with all this I'll have a nice and reliable front brake. When I get a little more scratch I'll redo the rear, but they seem to work well. I'm sure the process is not much different.
Thanks again for all your help, gggGary
I'm going to just do it right and get the stainless piston. I'm hoping with all this I'll have a nice and reliable front brake. When I get a little more scratch I'll redo the rear, but they seem to work well. I'm sure the process is not much different.
Thanks again for all your help, gggGary
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
I've noticed some fuel leaking around the carbs and where the carbs meet the airbox. I'm guessing it might be a stuck float. The bikes been sitting since 2004, I better go through the carbs. I think the left side petcock might be a little leaky too. I'll keep an eye on it. If it gets worse I'll probably just replace the vacuum petcocks and just replace them with a single manual petcock.
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
Another quick dumb wiring question. My turn signals have one wire each going into the harness under the seat. I tried replacing the busted bulbed with the existing socket and no dice. I bought a new socket, and it has two wires. I took apart the old socket and found both leads being combined into one wire.
Shouldn't one be a ground and one be a 12v?
Shouldn't one be a ground and one be a 12v?
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
Nevermind, the PO put in a 1157 bulb with 2 filaments, hence 2 contacts and 2 wires.
Yeah, I was wondering what was going on there. Creative PO's...
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
Got some new parts in. Got my stainless steel piston in, a really nice piece and seems like it will last longer than me. I got 2 size aflas (brake fluid resistant) o-rings for the master cylinder resevoir, I'm going to try each and see if I get any more leaks.
I was thinking of making a little rig so I can hook up the entire front brake system and let it let it sit for awhile and see if it leaks before wasting any time painting.
I was thinking of making a little rig so I can hook up the entire front brake system and let it let it sit for awhile and see if it leaks before wasting any time painting.
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
Reinstalled the front brake caliper and master cylinder last night. As of this morning no leaks. No more rubbing the front rotor! Haven't noticed any leaking from the old caliper seals, but I'm going to keep a close eye on them.
I only ended up using the larger aflas o-ring. The smaller one was too snug, and wouldn't seat properly.
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_355_358&products_id=11653
Need to wait for a bit and see if I develop any leaks.
I only ended up using the larger aflas o-ring. The smaller one was too snug, and wouldn't seat properly.
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_355_358&products_id=11653
Need to wait for a bit and see if I develop any leaks.
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
As of now the brake isn't leaking, so I'll consider the front brake a victory. Also buttoned up the back turn signal and popped on my new side cover.
The old one looked like a homemade fiberglass project gone horribly awry. I realize it's red, but it's in good shape and will be an easy surface to prep and paint. It came with the spring loaded quarter turn lock and was a cool 20 dollars on ebay.
Gonna ride it around tomorrow!
The old one looked like a homemade fiberglass project gone horribly awry. I realize it's red, but it's in good shape and will be an easy surface to prep and paint. It came with the spring loaded quarter turn lock and was a cool 20 dollars on ebay.
Gonna ride it around tomorrow!
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
I took it for a little spin around the neighborhood and there are definitely some oddities that both me and my roommate noticed.
- The clutch feels weird, like their is hardly much of a friction zone. You have to ride the clutch and it then engages really fast. My roommate feels like it's an adjustment to the clutch cable.
- The gearing feels really off too, first gear seems way too fast. Too much torque off the line. That, combined with the strange clutch, make the bike feel a bit dangerous. Seems like new sprockets are the solution. And I should probably get a new chain for the sake of safety.
- The tires are garbage, they're fairly squared off and seem to have a flat spot from sitting so long.
- The clutch feels weird, like their is hardly much of a friction zone. You have to ride the clutch and it then engages really fast. My roommate feels like it's an adjustment to the clutch cable.
- The gearing feels really off too, first gear seems way too fast. Too much torque off the line. That, combined with the strange clutch, make the bike feel a bit dangerous. Seems like new sprockets are the solution. And I should probably get a new chain for the sake of safety.
- The tires are garbage, they're fairly squared off and seem to have a flat spot from sitting so long.
Not sure what year they changed the amount of clutch plates and the basket but the earlier clutches had one plate more than the newer bikes. I cut my teeth on my '83 and when I got the '77 running there was a noticeable difference in clutch performance. The '77 was either out or in....now, whereas the '83 had a bit of feathering? I swapped the entire basket and plates out of the '77 for a set out of an '80 and now I have that bit of play, just like the '83's.
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
I think I'm going to try to adjust and re-lubricate the cable. If that doesn't help I'll look into a later model's basket and plates.
I am also going to go out and check how the bike is currently geared. Based upon my research, a 17-32 combination works well for xs650s with a 16" rear wheel. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace my chain too. What would be a good gearing for a new rider?
I am also going to go out and check how the bike is currently geared. Based upon my research, a 17-32 combination works well for xs650s with a 16" rear wheel. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace my chain too. What would be a good gearing for a new rider?
Last edited:
In my opinion, stock gearing is best. That way, you'll have enough oomph to pass a car or climb a hill without downshifting. 17/34 will be comfortable to 60 mph or so. 17/34 should get you to the ton and beyond in 5th gear if you're properly tuned. I think the engineers who designed the thing knew what they were doing. It's easy enough to change later if something else will better fit your needs.
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
Is 17/34 stock gearing? I've searched but can't seem to find it for certain.
The stock sprockets are 17 and 34. For that, you'll need a 104 link chain.
You won't like the stock set-up if you're going long on the interstate. Personally, I don't like the bike for that no matter the gearing. I did go with a 36 tooth sprocket one time. It's great for quick launch from a traffic light, but too buzzy at 55 mph. It's good for an urban rocket. I didn't read the whole string. Are you still with the 360 crank? My advise is based upon that. 17/34 works well.
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
I did about 20 miles on it today, just zooming around the neighborhood. What a blast. The front brake feels good and very responsive. After getting used to the clutch I found myself getting more and more comfortable with it. It still needs adjusted and oiled, but it's usable.
It really smoothed out after riding her for awhile. She bubbles away happily at idle. I better check the cam chain tensioner before putting too many miles on it.
It really smoothed out after riding her for awhile. She bubbles away happily at idle. I better check the cam chain tensioner before putting too many miles on it.
On the clutch, You need to lube the cable and the worm in the left side cover.
When you lube the cable use motor oil. Un hook both ends of the cable. Or remove it and hang it up. Make a funnel around the top, I use kitchen foil. Fill with motor oil. Let it set till oil drips out of the bottom. You can speed the process by moving the inner cable in/out of the housing.
The spray lubes you use the clamp on the cable end work, but not very long. Motor oil works better and lasts longer.
On the worm take off the left cover, careful not to loose the ball.Unhook the cable. Now you can unscrew the inner part of the worm from the outer. Look at the position of the arm. You want it back in that position.
Clean both parts well. Inspect for wear and cracks. If good relube with grease from your grease gun. If any part is suspect replace it.
Mike's sells a new unit that works well. It has two holes in the arm. The outer hole makes the lever pull a bit less but won't open the clutch as much. The inner hole pulls a bit harder but opens the clutch more.
I fouynd the better clutch action was worth the extra pull effort.
With a clean well lubed worm and well lubed cable and proper adjustment your clutch should be a pulled with two fingers easy lever. On my 75 with with the heavy springs I can.
Leo
When you lube the cable use motor oil. Un hook both ends of the cable. Or remove it and hang it up. Make a funnel around the top, I use kitchen foil. Fill with motor oil. Let it set till oil drips out of the bottom. You can speed the process by moving the inner cable in/out of the housing.
The spray lubes you use the clamp on the cable end work, but not very long. Motor oil works better and lasts longer.
On the worm take off the left cover, careful not to loose the ball.Unhook the cable. Now you can unscrew the inner part of the worm from the outer. Look at the position of the arm. You want it back in that position.
Clean both parts well. Inspect for wear and cracks. If good relube with grease from your grease gun. If any part is suspect replace it.
Mike's sells a new unit that works well. It has two holes in the arm. The outer hole makes the lever pull a bit less but won't open the clutch as much. The inner hole pulls a bit harder but opens the clutch more.
I fouynd the better clutch action was worth the extra pull effort.
With a clean well lubed worm and well lubed cable and proper adjustment your clutch should be a pulled with two fingers easy lever. On my 75 with with the heavy springs I can.
Leo
jpanichella
XS650 Enthusiast
Yeah, I went for another 20 mile jaunt to get more of a feel for what needs adjusted on the clutch. It seems like the clutch doesn't completely engage until the handle is entirely out. It seems to finally "grab" at this point. Is this something that can be fixed with an adjustment/oiling of the clutch cable? Thanks!
