Here's an easy rainy-day project:
I metal Sea-Foam can is perfect for this project. Once you assemble the tools and materials, this should take less than five minutes
I removed the paint from the center of the bottom of the can.
I poked a hole in the bottom of the can with a scratch-awl, enlarged it a little with a Phillips-head screwdriver, and did the final hole-enlarging by pushing in a short piece of 1/4" copper tubing.
I used a hand-held, disposable-bottle propane torch to solder the tubing in place. The metal Sea-Foam can is so thin that it just takes a few seconds to heat it and the copper tubing up to soldering temperature.
Done.
Don't be confused by the copper compression ring at the top of the copper tube -- it just happened to be stuck on the scrap piece of tubing that I used. It does make a good barb, however. You can also flare the end of the copper tube a little to make a no-slip barb. I made this about a year ago, hence the flash rust on the bottom of the can where I removed the paint.
I metal Sea-Foam can is perfect for this project. Once you assemble the tools and materials, this should take less than five minutes
I removed the paint from the center of the bottom of the can.
I poked a hole in the bottom of the can with a scratch-awl, enlarged it a little with a Phillips-head screwdriver, and did the final hole-enlarging by pushing in a short piece of 1/4" copper tubing.
I used a hand-held, disposable-bottle propane torch to solder the tubing in place. The metal Sea-Foam can is so thin that it just takes a few seconds to heat it and the copper tubing up to soldering temperature.
Done.
Don't be confused by the copper compression ring at the top of the copper tube -- it just happened to be stuck on the scrap piece of tubing that I used. It does make a good barb, however. You can also flare the end of the copper tube a little to make a no-slip barb. I made this about a year ago, hence the flash rust on the bottom of the can where I removed the paint.
