johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
Sounds easy when you say it fast Fred. Next time you are in Edmonton come to my shop and demonstrate.
I'll supply the beverages of your choice.
I'll supply the beverages of your choice.
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New member starting a project 650
- Thread starter johnnyc14
- Start date
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
More progress on the exhaust system part of this project. I've spent so much time on this muffler that I'm committed to using it even if it looks hideous. Kind of like having an ugly dog, it's ugly but it's mine. It started with a 1 foot length of 4" exhaust pipe from a diesel pick up with a cutout to fit around the right rear shock and keep it tighter to the bike. Then I made up 2 aluminum end caps and the 2 inlet pipes and 1 outlet with baffling holes drilled and an aluminum end piece for the outlet. I tack welded a support bracket to the frame to support the muffler and made a connecting brace from a piece of 3/16" aluminum sheet. My final judgment as to whether to keep it will be hearing how it sounds when I get the engine back together. I welcome your comments, here's some pics.
Abrasive
XS650 Member
Looks rad. I like the idea of coping it around the shock like that. Good on you for doing something more inventive than just "a length of pipe"!
With the milling machine and lathe, you're the envy of everyone here on the site. Excellent machining skills, and your bike will certainly be different than most. Very well done project!
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
Thanks guys. The mill and lathe make the bike projects even more fun.
I like the exhaust. Good work. It's nice to have the tools and a little imagination to accomplish somting like that, especially when it turns out.
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I made a little more progress on this mongrel bike. I bought a partial sheet of .040" aluminum to make an exhaust heat shield and some side covers with. First I mounted the muffler and inlet pipes in the mill and cut some slots so the clamps can tighten down onto the inner pipe.
Then I made up 2 brackets that bolt to the mounts I welded to the back side of the pipes earlier.
Then I made a cardboard template to get the bolt hole spacing for the heat shield.
I cut a piece of the aluminum sheet and screwed it by the 4 corners to a piece of 2" X 12" lumber and transferred the template holes onto the sheet metal.
I bent a small piece of sheet metal to work out how I was going to bend the heat shield.
I drilled the mounting holes and then a pattern of decorative holes then I lost my head a bit and experimented with some swirly pattern stuff using a Roloc disc.
I took the piece to work and put into the metal brake to add some bends to fit around the pipes.
I didn't take into account that the heat from using the Roloc Disc would work harden the aluminum and it cracked on the bends. A couple of off color words were uttered. Lesson learned.
I decided to take a break from the heat shield and work on the side covers. I'm going for a slimmer look than the bulbous stock covers give. I used some more of the sheet aluminum. I cut off the old seat latch and re-worked the stock side cover brackets with some heat and pliers then made up some backing nuts from short pieces of 1/4", threaded to 6mm. I spot welded the nuts to the back of the frame tabs.
I also drilled out the spot welds on the lower side cover retainer brackets and welded nut into them as well.
Then I made up 2 brackets that bolt to the mounts I welded to the back side of the pipes earlier.
Then I made a cardboard template to get the bolt hole spacing for the heat shield.
I cut a piece of the aluminum sheet and screwed it by the 4 corners to a piece of 2" X 12" lumber and transferred the template holes onto the sheet metal.
I bent a small piece of sheet metal to work out how I was going to bend the heat shield.
I drilled the mounting holes and then a pattern of decorative holes then I lost my head a bit and experimented with some swirly pattern stuff using a Roloc disc.
I took the piece to work and put into the metal brake to add some bends to fit around the pipes.
I didn't take into account that the heat from using the Roloc Disc would work harden the aluminum and it cracked on the bends. A couple of off color words were uttered. Lesson learned.
I decided to take a break from the heat shield and work on the side covers. I'm going for a slimmer look than the bulbous stock covers give. I used some more of the sheet aluminum. I cut off the old seat latch and re-worked the stock side cover brackets with some heat and pliers then made up some backing nuts from short pieces of 1/4", threaded to 6mm. I spot welded the nuts to the back of the frame tabs.
I also drilled out the spot welds on the lower side cover retainer brackets and welded nut into them as well.
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I installed the battery box and carbs to check clearances and made up some more cardboard templates. I originally made cut outs around the air filters but later decided to space the side panels out to provide air filter clearance.
You'll notice I painted my cracked heat shield to see how black would look. I kind of like it that way.
After the cardboard templates were made to fit I cut the aluminum sheet and made up some spacers to go behind 2 of the 3 bolts on each cover for correct fit.
I took the covers to work and put a small bend at the top of each on and also bent up my second attempt at a heat shield and bead blasted all 3 parts. No cracked sheet metal this time! All three parts will probably get painted.
You'll notice I painted my cracked heat shield to see how black would look. I kind of like it that way.
After the cardboard templates were made to fit I cut the aluminum sheet and made up some spacers to go behind 2 of the 3 bolts on each cover for correct fit.
I took the covers to work and put a small bend at the top of each on and also bent up my second attempt at a heat shield and bead blasted all 3 parts. No cracked sheet metal this time! All three parts will probably get painted.
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I spent almost the whole day Saturday making up some footpegs to replace the rubber covered originals. I used 2 strips of 1" by 1/4" hot rolled steel and milled notches spaced 1/2" on center, .180" deep, then milled that edge flat.
I used the cheap Princess Auto metal bender to form the 180 degree bends with a 1" diameter die.
I TIG welded the end caps on.
I machined some adapters to fit the Yamaha brackets and welded those to the end caps. The profile of the adapters allow the pegs to fold to 45 degrees. They are about 1/2" longer than the stock pegs.
I used the cheap Princess Auto metal bender to form the 180 degree bends with a 1" diameter die.
I TIG welded the end caps on.
I machined some adapters to fit the Yamaha brackets and welded those to the end caps. The profile of the adapters allow the pegs to fold to 45 degrees. They are about 1/2" longer than the stock pegs.
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I was thinking of building a rear wheel stand for this bike as I am going to remove all the center stand hardware. I was in Princess Auto (sort of a Canadian Harbor Freight) the other day and they had these Chinese made front wheel stands for $30. A quick measurement and I thought this should work for the rear of and XS650. All I had to do to make it perfect was use a utility knife and re-shape the rubber pads.
There is about 1/4" of clearance between the sprocket on the left and the brake rotor on the right.
There is about 1/4" of clearance between the sprocket on the left and the brake rotor on the right.
I was thinking of building a rear wheel stand for this bike as I am going to remove all the center stand hardware. I was in Princess Auto (sort of a Canadian Harbor Freight) the other day and they had these Chinese made front wheel stands for $30. A quick measurement and I thought this should work for the rear of and XS650. All I had to do to make it perfect was use a utility knife and re-shape the rubber pads.
There is about 1/4" of clearance between the sprocket on the left and the brake rotor on the right.
I was thinking of building a rear wheel stand for this bike as I am going to remove all the center stand hardware. I was in Princess Auto (sort of a Canadian Harbor Freight) the other day and they had these Chinese made front wheel stands for $30. A quick measurement and I thought this should work for the rear of and XS650. All I had to do to make it perfect was use a utility knife and re-shape the rubber pads.
There is about 1/4" of clearance between the sprocket on the left and the brake rotor on the right.
Hi johnnyc14,
yeah, Princess Auto sells a bunch of neat stuff like that bargain bike stand which will work just fine as long as your bike is at home.
But say you've removed the centrestand and it's associated bracketry, you get a hundred miles or so from home and need to remove a wheel
(say to fix a flat or replace a blown tire) Without a centrestand I won't say you are totally screwed but you are facing a great deal of inconvenience.
Johnny: I've just rear your thread and all I can say is...holy cow. Well done work and very clever machining.
Keep on keepin' on!
Pete
Keep on keepin' on!
Pete
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
Yeah I know it's not very practical Fred. My Buell doesn't have a centre stand either and it's a pain in the butt even to clean the wheels.
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I'm planning to use only the speedo from the XS but the one I have has 2 dents in the outer bezel. I used a simple plywood holding fixture and a curved tool to pry the crimp on the bezel open a little at a time until it was opened enough around the entire circumference to remove it. I also used a piece of sheet metal between the speedo and the prying tool to protect the plastic speedo body. I replaced the bezel with the undamaged one from the tach.
After the speedo was installed onto the undamaged bezel I used a length of brass rod to push the crimp closed again a little at a time until it is back to the original form. It is easier to repaint the bezel when it's on the gauge so I'll do that later.
After the speedo was installed onto the undamaged bezel I used a length of brass rod to push the crimp closed again a little at a time until it is back to the original form. It is easier to repaint the bezel when it's on the gauge so I'll do that later.
Nice job on a delicate task Johnny!
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I used a chunk of 6061 to machine a speedo/handle bar mount. The Buell triple clamp has a weird diagonal bolt pattern for the handle bar hold down and I wanted to eliminate that as well as raise the bars up about 1.5". I milled the top of the original triple clamps bar mounts flat and parallel.
I machined the adapter block to use 2 of the threaded holes on the triple clamp as simply hold downs and the other 2 as part of the bar mount hold downs thus giving me the perpendicular bar mounts I wanted and giving 4.25" spacing between the hold down clamps.
The Buell triple clamp used Imperial fasteners so all the holes are 5/16" NC.
I machined the hold down clamps from 2 more small pieces of 6061 aluminum.
I drilled the hole for the handlebar to 3/4" the bore it to .875" for the 7/8" bars I will use. Both bar clamps are bored at once, stacked in the vise.
Then I drilled and countersunk the bolt holes and chamfered the edges.
I used a slitting saw to cut the clamps in half.
Using the same bolt hole spacing I drilled and tapped the extra mounting hole in the bracket for the hold down clamps.
Now I have the starting point for my bar mount/speedo mount
I machined the adapter block to use 2 of the threaded holes on the triple clamp as simply hold downs and the other 2 as part of the bar mount hold downs thus giving me the perpendicular bar mounts I wanted and giving 4.25" spacing between the hold down clamps.
The Buell triple clamp used Imperial fasteners so all the holes are 5/16" NC.
I machined the hold down clamps from 2 more small pieces of 6061 aluminum.
I drilled the hole for the handlebar to 3/4" the bore it to .875" for the 7/8" bars I will use. Both bar clamps are bored at once, stacked in the vise.
Then I drilled and countersunk the bolt holes and chamfered the edges.
I used a slitting saw to cut the clamps in half.
Using the same bolt hole spacing I drilled and tapped the extra mounting hole in the bracket for the hold down clamps.
Now I have the starting point for my bar mount/speedo mount
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I wanted to rubber mount the speedo as XS650's vibrate like paint shakers. I bent up a simple bracket from some 3/16" flat steel and milled the area that will fit on the aluminum bracket to fit between the mounting bolt holes. I found some sleeved rubber mounts left over from my DT250 build and measured the waist area of the rubber part. I did not have a drill bit the right size so I drilled the holes undersize then finished sizing with a boring bar.
I drilled and tapped the 3 mounting holes in the aluminum bracket to 1/4" NC, the Buell triple clamps use Imperial fasteners.
I soon realized that there was not enough room for the speedo bracket under the handlebar bracket, the rear bolt interfered with the steering stem bolt so I milled a pocket .200" deep in the aluminum bracket to move the speedo bracket upward to provide the necessary clearance. I drilled the 2 mounting holes for the speedo and milled a slot for cable clearance and fitted the handlebar.
There's more to do on these brackets but the bar height feels right and I like the position of the speedo
I drilled and tapped the 3 mounting holes in the aluminum bracket to 1/4" NC, the Buell triple clamps use Imperial fasteners.
I soon realized that there was not enough room for the speedo bracket under the handlebar bracket, the rear bolt interfered with the steering stem bolt so I milled a pocket .200" deep in the aluminum bracket to move the speedo bracket upward to provide the necessary clearance. I drilled the 2 mounting holes for the speedo and milled a slot for cable clearance and fitted the handlebar.
There's more to do on these brackets but the bar height feels right and I like the position of the speedo
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I got the bottom end of the engine back together, I didn't need any new parts here except seals, gaskets and a new cam chain.
There is a small round rubber gasket that seals off the end of an oil passage that is not available so I made one by using a hole punch to remove a 9/16" round piece of 1/8" thick neoprene sheet I had.
There is a small round rubber gasket that seals off the end of an oil passage that is not available so I made one by using a hole punch to remove a 9/16" round piece of 1/8" thick neoprene sheet I had.
johnnyc14
XS650 Addict
I'm waiting for a couple of seals for the top end of the engine so I went to work on the tank and seat. I had previously moved the front tank mounts 1/2" back so I made up a new rear mount post for it. I just drilled the hole for it half and inch back from the original. The original was welded to the frame, this one is held onto the frame with a nut.
I found a vendor on eBay that sells reproduction seats for Yamaha enduro's and after some measuring I ordered one for a DT175. I thought about narrowing and shortening the original seat and getting a custom foam and cover made but that would have cost more than this seat did. I made up 6 mounting pads for the rubber cushions of the seat and fabricated a couple of hold down straps. I had to weld those 8 pieces to the frame so I chopped off the center stand mounts from the frame while I had it stripped down for the welding. The seat is thickly padded and nice and narrow and seems to be high quality and I like how it looks on the bike.
I finally got around to removing the brake caliper mount from the left fork leg to clean up the look of the fork.
This is how is sits right now. After I get the engine together it will get a final mock-up assembly then be disassembled for paint. I haven't decided on a color yet.
I found a vendor on eBay that sells reproduction seats for Yamaha enduro's and after some measuring I ordered one for a DT175. I thought about narrowing and shortening the original seat and getting a custom foam and cover made but that would have cost more than this seat did. I made up 6 mounting pads for the rubber cushions of the seat and fabricated a couple of hold down straps. I had to weld those 8 pieces to the frame so I chopped off the center stand mounts from the frame while I had it stripped down for the welding. The seat is thickly padded and nice and narrow and seems to be high quality and I like how it looks on the bike.
I finally got around to removing the brake caliper mount from the left fork leg to clean up the look of the fork.
This is how is sits right now. After I get the engine together it will get a final mock-up assembly then be disassembled for paint. I haven't decided on a color yet.
