newbie question

pahako, no... the right side, yes... but not the left. The left side just basically covers the alternator and houses the clutch actuator parts, but does not hold any oil.

TC
 
I was looking for this info as well, so I'm glad you asked the question. The reason I ask is because the bottom of the left side cover on my bike leaked a bunch of oil last time I started it. If it doesn't contain oil....where'd it come from?
 
Ashaman, those leaks are from your clutch push rod seal and crankcase seal behind your sprocket. Sometimes tightening your sprocket will fix that one. The sprocket will work loose and it will leak. There are a lot of threads here about those seals.
 
Ah yeah, that's the one where you're supposed to split the cases to change that seal but it can be done without. See, I pick up tidbits but sometimes don't yet have a frame of reference for them to make sense. :)
 
Guys, it's also possible for the crankshaft seal (located behind the stator/rotor assembly) to leak, though I think that's a less common occurrence than the main output shaft or clutch pushrod seal leaks. This seal can also be replaced without splitting the cases if you are careful, and if the replacement seal (such as the one I used from Mike's) has a "ramped" retention bead instead of a symmetrical one.

TC
 
Side cover off, sprocket came off with my fingers, (needs to be replaced), and cleaned the thick layer of gunk off. I have identified 3 leaks so far. Behind the sprocket, clutch push rod seal, and I have one farther up on the same side which looks like a cam shaft seal. I think my riding season is over for now.:( Chain came off the other day while riding, but I was able to coast safely to a stop. Lost the master link. Thought it would be a good time to check out the sprockets and leaks. Now to save my pennies so I can get back on the road next spring.:bike: Thinking about going with a 32 tooth rear sprocket for highway riding, but I don't want to loose my getup and go in town. Any one else use a 32 tooth on the rear?
 
I'm running 18/32 and have run 17/30.....pretty much the same. My riding is town and country, no interstates. I'll never go back to stock config.
Overall this combo makes all the gears more utilitarian and not just a shift to get to the next gear......best to note that I'm a one-up rider though.
 
I am only 140 lbs and ride one up. Does your configuration keep the rpm's down at 65-70 mph, and how does it effect the lower gears around town?
 
Ah...a fly weight, and no offence meant. Ol' xsjohn, sadly missed, was a flyweight and he rode 18/29 sprockets.
Around town the lower gears are used longer than just being there to get to the next gear- if you follow what I'm saying. For instance you might use 3rd gear while driving around 30 mph. I personally watch my tach to determine which gear I'll be in for the speed posted, keeping her around 2500 rpm. If 3rd gear @ 30 mph gives me 2500 rpm then that's where I'll run her. In the hill and hollows I do a lot of shifting up and down to maintain that 2500 rpm goal. Of course on a straight-away it doesn't matter, I open her up to where I'm comfortable (safe!)
I'm around 4 grand on the tach at 55 to 60 mph
 
Yeah, I follow ya. I think I am going to try the 18-32 combo, and If I don't like it I can always drop back to 17-32. I was just curious if these bikes can be made to ride at modern interstate speeds comfortably (vibration,rpm's). Haven't really had mine over 65 mph, and I don't know if it was more me, or the bike, but that seemed to be the max for my level of comfort.

Thanks for the reply
 

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