Ninja EX500 carbs on an XS650?

with that 700cc i might even go bigger on the mains... you'll definitely need more fuel than a 650. and def. jjj needles too, gjh i was too lean.

i'm working on an enricher 'rod' similar to one that the bs34 carbs use to work on the ex500 carbs. kicking while holding the choke open is getting old. haha.

btw, i've got 1000+ miles on my setup with the carbs, still going strong. need to resync the carbs a little bit i think, got a weird vibration at around 3/5th throttle that i didn't have before. valves and timing are spot on.
 
I've got about 1000 miles on my setup now (38/138 GJH on richest clip setting, Uni foams).

Runs great. I hold the choke open while starting when cold (on center stand) with no complaints. As soon as it fires let it go and give it a bit of throttle. Settles into nice idle at 1100-1200 after a minute or two.

I'm at 1200' above sea level and have had no issues running full bore all the way up to 8000' and back in a day. No adjustments needed with my setup as is. I've honestly forgotten about my carb swap when telling people about my bike, it just works so well. Truth told it is the single best thing I've done to the machine.
 
I got tired of holding the choke open while starting and found an easy solution.

After removing the return spring from the link bar, I replaced one of the screws with a longer screw and a spring.

CVKchoke1.jpg


Now, just push on the right side to open the choke, fire up the bike, then push on the left side to close it.
 
Not as easy, but the OCD in me didn't want to mess with the carb linkage.

I fitted this and the result is this.

It so happens that the choke "cable" (it's solid wire) bends a bit in a way that it now has just the right amount of drag to stay put...

Bike now has proper cages over the carb holders BTW.
 
Got my set on and like everyone else, they seem to be made for this bike. Idle and response is there right off the bat. I need to get a throttle set up because the one I have rigged will get me killed..haha.

I do have a bit of gas leaking out of the bowl on bottom left carb, but, I could've mussed up the float level or maybe just need to tighten the screws down...other than that, I'm actually excited about tuning carbs for a change.
 
Floats looked fine...were set when sent to me really. Tightened float bowl screws. Still pouring out the holes like Troopthrowback had stated earlier in thread. On left side carb only. I also noticed that the black vent tube that goes between the two carbs isn't plugged, but, gas is pouring out of it when I open the gas flow but only after the bowls fill up. Should I run a tube from that top vent down to somewhere below the engine? Would that help with pressure? Is there something possibly wrong with my petcock...could there be bad vacuum there?
 
I use a dab of toothpaste on the end of a q tip. The little brass hole where the needle sets should be free of build up, burrs, discoloration, etc. a little spin action with the paste or simicrome polish will make that surface shine. That allows the rubber needle tip a fresh seat.

Also use the blow check method to establish that the needles are seating properly. Blow through vent junction while manipulating the floats up and down together to gauge that they seat at the same level, and positively with no leaks.
 
Also check to make sure both needles engage at the same level. A little air pressure check (mouth over air vent junction while blowing gently) while moving the floats up and down to determine actual needle seat height and proper seal is an easy way to check.
 
whats the cost of the needles and jet kets for the ex carbs, I thinking of doing a set but man the cost of the ex500 carbs have went up a lot I looked a year or so ago they were 50/60 bucks now there almost 200 WTF I can do vm's cheeper if the cost of the brass for the ex carbs are high
 
As I recall needles are around $6 each ad jets similar. Look back in the thread for links to sites for purchase. I bought mine from jets r us and my biggest gripe was shipping was a flat $7. They came in a prepaid envelope with a shipping label cost of just over $3.

But they were swift to arrive and they had them in stock.

I'm not familiar with any needle or jet "kits" per se. All so far have been purchased piecemeal. A few have fine some pretty good research on what jets and needles are good ballpark operators. Suffice it to say a "kit" would come at a premium. The more Do it yourself this is the cheaper it will remain.
 
thanks I must have over looked that thread. wasn't sure if there was a kit out there for it or not Thanks for the info do tney realy run better than a good set of bs38's?
 
I want to say its within the first 15 pages of this thread.

I believe try do run better than the bs138 I had. Note that if you have the carb holders for 38s you will need to get ones made fr the bs34. The intake diameters on the cvk are 34mm. I recommend JBM. They are pricey, but very high quality and don't need the metal cages you are used to with bs38. JBM are metal with a rubber outer coating, so they are much more rigid than the stock type. Around $70 per set, but good.

I got my pair used for $80 on eBay, then with assorted jets, needles, intake manifolds, and filters I got mine done for just under $300.

They are set and forget. Idle better than my 38 ever did, much better throttle response. I originally searched for a replacement for bs38 because I hated the cv lag. The cvk reduce that effect by half or better. Not quite an Amal (what I'm used to), but darn good.
 
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