Ninja EX500 carbs on an XS650?

Does anyone know if the EX carbs have throttle shaft seals? These carbs are 20 years old.....

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The blow-ups don't show a part number or even the shafts.
 
I can't help you with your seal question . It doesn't appear to be an issue with the cabs. There is a guy doing rebuilds on the carbs. Information in thread some where. Try them you will like them. Besides It will give the thread another opinion. You could have them on in no time flat. You know you want too.
 

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So where is everyone buying their needles and jets for the EX carbs? I'm hoping to get mine (mostly) back together soon and need to order some new parts. Thanks!
 
Looks like most folks are ordering from JetsRus or sudco there are some direct links posted somewhere here in the earlier pages that take you directly to the JetsRus needles and jets section.
 
So where is everyone buying their needles and jets for the EX carbs? I'm hoping to get mine (mostly) back together soon and need to order some new parts. Thanks!
Thought I'd share my experience with JetsRus...

The first EX set I did mid 2013 I ordered parts from JetsRus. It took almost two and a half weeks to get my order and the shipping was pretty expensive.

I just did a second set and thought I'd give them one more chance. This time I ordered on Saturday afternoon, Got an Email conformation with tracking number on Sunday and received the parts by Wednesday (to the West coast). Couldn't be more pleased with the transaction.

They are a bit more expensive than Sudco, but I'm not ordering bulk quantities either.

2 cents
 
Sudco was very prompt and when they sent the wrong needles they immediately sent the correct ones. I was very impressed.
 
Just ordered from Jets R Us (JJJ, 138 main, 38 slow, like the bulk of people here have done). Going to get these carbs put back together and sell em. If anyone's interested, let me know!

Quick question: what is everyone setting their float heights to?
 
I went a different route.

So those jets were incorrect for the bike. They're going to let me exchange the jets, but I still have to confirm the needles are correct. I ordered Jets R Us p/n 46-JJJ 017-188.

can someone PLEASE confirm the needle part number from Jetsrus?? If everything is wrong, I'm out $50...
 
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I have just done this mod after many fruitless attempts to salvage the stock BS38s on my '77, (after resoldering floats, new o-rings, new diaphrams, jets etc, turned out PO had overscrewed mix screw INTO the carb body!)... Got a pair of 2001 EX500 carbs off ebay for 50quid, cleaned em, rejetted (138, 38) and new 34mm manifolds, RamAir filters and....

off we went! Runs beautifully, no popping on deceleration, good pull all the way through, (though not had a chance to open up and strectch legs much over 50 yet, I live in London!), and sounds much nicer, really barks when blip throttle!

only problem was throttle cable. I used the stock one, which was plenty long enough, but didnt pay enough attention to adjusting correct length, meaning there was too much slack meaning when throttle rolled full closed, it was bending the exposed end at carb, and guess what? SNAP! lesson learned anyway, new cable on its way, to be correctly adjusted...

otherwise, bloody great!

oh yeah, so Ramair pods and straight through pipes, stock ignition.
 
I think I'll be doing this mod. I have a pair of Mikuni VM34s which are fitted with a split cable, which I don't like (bad memories of similar designs of my youth) and the carb slides are too heavily sprung, which just adds to the uncertainty of ever making it home should a cable break. I'm aware I can get lighter springs, but before I spend money improving a set of carbs which are always going to be a less than perfect solution, I'd rather fit a pair (or single) that remove much of the uncertainty. The GPz / EX500 carbs seem the answer. They have diaphragms which might eventually need replaced, but I can live with that, since there are only two of them.
I got put off diaphragms when I was faced with replacing sets of four at a time - too expensive.
 
Help, I'm out of ideas. I've got a bad stumble break up at upper rpm cruising speed, running 40/138/jjj

I thought it was a rich condition cause my plugs were black but now I don't know. I swapped from 140's to 138's, Ive moved the needle clip all the way to slot one and even replaced the donut with a shim washer to try and lean out the upper midrange even more. If I row through the gears I don't even notice the stumble but when I'm trying to cruise at 60+ mph it just has horrible breakup at upper rpm at about 1/4-1/2 throttle. I don't notice this when just cruising around town.

I've cleaned these things multiple times, checked float height, replaced mix screw, washer, o ring, spring

I'm about ready to give up on these things, I had my old 38's running much better than these [emoji22]
 
Whats your setup, I am running 138 38 jjj needle in middle with one shim.
Open exhaust and pods. Was a tad lean hence the shim, air screw 1 turn.
Also important is carb sync, unhock the carbs and sync with a piece of paper adjusting the butterfly until they are equally closed.
Lot of people like these carbs, and they do work, don't give up.
Every bike needs a different setup and finding that sweet spot should be a part of the hobby otherwise you should stick with the originale.

Best regards Simon
 
I'm running 40 pilot, 140 main, HKJ #4 slot, and will be trying 38 pilots, 138 mains, but judging by the exhaust tips still looking rich (finger test shows lots of soot at exhaust tip).

Thinking it's more the needles as the rider is running mostly mid range and I don't think the pilots and mains will do much.

Next test will be change the needle to slot #3 and #5 to check for change in response and add washer to get half step if needed.

Freebee;

I have 18 - 2mm x 65mm 0-rings that make great replacement float bowl o-rings for the existing thinner and sometimes leaky Kawasaki versions.

They look to be about .5mm bigger in diameter and when tightening up they squeeze in quite well.

To hold in place is another story. I use engine case sealant (Yamaha Bond) in very small amounts in the float bowl grove at each corner, then got the o-ring to stay in place, quickly bolted the bowls back on. Left for 24 hours, removed bowls and removed any sealant on the carb side of the o-ring. The bowls have been off several times and the o-rings are staying in place.

So, the first 9 people that PM me their mailing address, I will send you 2 free o-rings.

Payback for all the great advice here.

Thanks Guys.
 
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