no gas to the bowls

[Tiny92]

As the tittle says I've completed my second cleaning of my carbs. everything is clean and clear. Bike ran when I bought it though the day after it wouldn't start up at all. had been sitting for some time before i got it. figured i'd just clean it out. jets and bowlds are clean fuel makes it as far as the T from the fuel line but doesn't seem to make it into the bowls. after fussing with it a bit one carb will get damp with fuel the other is bone dry.

Anyone got a magic bullet for clearing a blockage, pure acetone, seafoam, or some other solvent I should let sit in the fuel line/carb bowls to disolve this or do I need to tear this down completly and poke it with a stick. how hard is it to split the carbs and then how hard is it to get them sorted when reassembling?

 

[trailer01]

I took my 81 650 carbs apart before, and I had trouble getting the screws out holding the together, and did each carb seperate when i cleaned them, I did not take the top of the carb apart just the bottom and all the jets, one time it took me 4 times taking them off to get it to run good must have been a piece of dirt stuck somewhere, but ever since than I drain the carbs every winter and no problems since than.

All I used was carb cleaner in a spray can.

 

[hotdog]

What fuel taps do you have..?? if they are vacuum type then turn them to "prime".

 

[Tiny92]

Used prime to get fuel to the carb but it didn't make it past the fuel line T. seems to be just gummed up.was hoping I wouldn't have to separate the carbs from eachother but cant see any other way to pull the T fitting out. Unless there is something someone recomends as a solvent/cleaner to open up t the passage.

 

[hotdog]

sounds as though your float needles are stuck closed - this can happen from having fuel sitting in your float bowls for long periods of time, nthe fuel evaporates & leaves a horrible resin type gunk that is a pita to clean out.
Have you removed your floats & float needles from the carbs & then checked for fuel inflow from the fuel tap..??

 

[XSLeo]

www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf is a good read and might help you figure it out.
As hotdog said, it's proably the float valves, they have much smaller openings than the tee, so are more apt to be plugged.
Leo

 

[gggGary]

You don't say but since you have a tee I am going to guess the carbs are BS34s. You will not need to separate the carbs but the float valves are held in the bodies with a bracket and screw, the float valve has an o-ring around the outside that seals to the carb body. You must be careful not to bend the brass float valve removing it.



Once you get the float valve out there is a small screen built into the top of the valve body I am going to guess they are FOS. The screens are a bit delicate and I normally don't try to remove them from the body. The O-ring is usually brittle and no longer sealing so that no matter how good the float valve is, fuel will leak around it.
You can usually find an o-ring that fits, locally, use a little grease, reassemble. While you have the float valves apart chuck a q-tip in your drill add some chrome polish and buff up the inside of the valve seat, rinse well with solvent, air blow dry. With the float valves out spray carb cleaner in the passage to the fuel tee, blow it out with air, repeat a time or two. Use NEW fuel line, I prefer Tygon. Go ride!

 

[weekendrider]

Gary I missed the chance to prove your point the other day.
Pulled a float bowl and it had little specks (like black pepper) in it
Fished out and rubbed between the fingers produced a slimey smear.
Was on a "mission" so didn't think to get pictures, but they would have been
a good example of fuel lines breaking down.

 

[Tiny92]

You don't say but since you have a tee I am going to guess the carbs are BS34s. You will not need to separate the carbs but the float valves are held in the bodies with a bracket and screw, the float valve has an o-ring around the outside that seals to the carb body. You must be careful not to bend the brass float valve removing it.

View attachment 18840

Once you get the float valve out there is a small screen built into the top of the valve body I am going to guess they are FOS. The screens are a bit delicate and I normally don't try to remove them from the body. The O-ring is usually brittle and no longer sealing so that no matter how good the float valve is, fuel will leak around it.
You can usually find an o-ring that fits, locally, use a little grease, reassemble. While you have the float valves apart chuck a q-tip in your drill add some chrome polish and buff up the inside of the valve seat, rinse well with solvent, air blow dry. With the float valves out spray carb cleaner in the passage to the fuel tee, blow it out with air, repeat a time or two. Use NEW fuel line, I prefer Tygon. Go ride!

Perfect. info just what I needed I'll try and dub around with them tonight and report back. had the float's out and needles but didn't get the float valve out. I'm sure its gummed up solid at this point. when I first started cleaning I was removing chunks of varnish never even occured to me about the float valve.

 

[Tiny92]

Checking back to update progress. The valve filters and surrounding area were plugged solid with a rust/pepper looking substance. After cleaning and flushing with Carb cleaner then cleaning and flushing and cleaning and flushing, its finally clear. Haven't got em them on the bobber yet but I don't see the carbs being an issue after this. Once I know it runs I can move on to testing the charging and move on to timing the wire harness.

I really want to thank everyone who responded to my inquirie.